BRAAP

Here is my personal list of parts/components that will interchange with/on/in the Datsun 280-Z; Small Block Chevy. L-24. L-26. Dual SU carbs. 5 speed if the 280 was 4 speed. 4 speed if the 280 was 5 speed. Subaru R-160 differential Datsun 510 steel rear brake drums. L-16, (will need motor mount extensions, but will bolt in). Datsun 510 oil pressrue sender, (great for adding an oil pressure idiot light. Will need a TEE with 10mm pipe thread if you want to retain the gauge as well) Chrysler 440 Big block, (not a quick bolt in, but is fun for reducing the diameter of most tires. Personally tried this one).) 280-ZX self contained electronic ignition. RB26DET Toyota Celica 4 lug wheels. Z-31 300 ZX 4 lug wheels. Early Datsun pickup clutch master cylinder (3/4" bore, works great for BW T-56 trans). I have heard the 280-ZX Turbo engine and EFI will fit.

Have you tried the Nissan parts counter?

Gut reaction tells me one or both lower contorl arms are not fully attached to the car! Lower control arm attachment points and brackets. 1) Be sure ALL 4 bolts that attached the diff cross-member are present and tight. 2) Be sure all four bolts holding both rear lower control arm clamps are present and tight, (2 bolts per clamp). 3) Those rear control arm clamps are attached to a small cross-member. This small cross-member is attached to the vertical uprights just behind and on either side of the diff itself. Be sure this small cross-member is securely attached to the uprights, 4 bolts AND nuts, (2 per upright). 4) Those two vertical uprights attach to the car body. Be sure those uprights have all 4 bolts attaching them to the car body, (2 bolts each).

Cadilac Catera third member, (Front wheel drive?) Inadvertently found this third member while surfing. Did a quick search but could not find any definitive info on it. Any of you guys know anything about this third member? The main questions that come to mind; 1) Do they come in LSD? 2) What ratios? 3) Strength? (Aren't the Cateras an anemic 3.0 V-6?) 4) Is it worth looking into as an alternative Hybrid Datsun third member? Pic courtesy of the internet.

You and I both. My wife snickers at me now every time I climb into the shower saying she has heard me making engine noises in the shower. I assure her that I’m just singing… In studying this a little more, you brought to light a couple things I previously generalized that is both right and wrong. Sorry about that fellas. I'm eating some of my previous comments regarding the balancing of the crank and elaborating more accurately due to the different designs/crank pin layouts. 1) Crankshaft counterbalance mass. Looking closer at them sheds some light on balancing aspects of the dual plane V-8 cranks, both pin configurations of the single plane V-8 cranks and 4 cylinder crankshafts. a) Dual Plane V-8 crankshafts; Notice the counterweights for these come in one flavor, ALWAYS a “given” amount of mass, and when balanced, the bobweights offset that counterweight mass. Dual plane cranks are not available "partially counterbalanced" or "without counterbalance". They can be had lightweight, still, counterbalance mass will be equal to what the bob weight calculations for that build. In short, dual plane cranks, you HAVE to use bob weights to balance. b) L-R-R-L pin config Single plane V-8 crankshafts and 4 cylinder cranks, (as far as I am aware, ALL 4 cylinder cranks are the L-R-R-L config), do NOT have the added mass in the counterweights to offset the mass the bob weights are supposed to account for during balancing. These cranks are balanced neutral, to itself, no bob weights. With this design, the crank can come in several flavors of counterbalance, whether it be "fully counterbalanced" "partially counterbalanced" or "none". This mirror image crank pin configuration has no need to offset the mass a bob weight accounts for, opposite the crank pin. In studying the physics taking place, If bob weights are used to balance this style of crank, the end result will be EXACTLY 100% the same as if no bob weights were used during the balance. Using bob weights to balance L-R-R-L cranks just consumes the balancers time in calculating bob weights and installing them on the crankshaft for pin up as the result will be the same, regardless as the bob weights would cancel each other. c) L-R-L-R pin config single plane V-8 cranks, as pictured earlier for the SBC. Bob weights as used on this pin configuration would have some use in helping to cancel out “some” of the 2nd order vibrations induced by the rocking couple, (this would have NO/ZERO effect on the 2nd order vibration inherent in all 4 cylinder/single plane V-8 cranks from the difference in piston acceleration ). Again, This would help reduce some, but not all the vibration induced by the L-R-L-R crank pin layout. I think the “single” counter rotating balance shaft like used in the GM/Ford 3.8 V-6 engines would go further in quelling that fore-aft rocking couple vibration. 2) I am very curious as to why the L-R-L-R has been built? Vizard has showed a picture, as well as Racerstech first hand experience with them in this thread for the SBC. The engineers/designers behind that design had a reason for using this configuration over the L-R-R-L, it would be nice to know what that reason was? It just seems that with what I understand currently of this topic, the L-R-L-R design brings with it a whole other set of vibration/balance issues that the L-R-R-L doesn’t have. From what I have been able to uncover thus far, the L-R-R-L pin configuration seems to most be the most widely accepted being used in all road going Ferrari single plane V-8’s, Indy/IRL, F-1 etc, year after year, car model after car model including ALL 4 cylinder engines, (haven’t seen or heard of any inline 4 cylinders utilizing a L-R-L-R pin config). So far, it seems the L-R-L-R has been more experimental than firmly implemented. It would be nice to hear from those designers/engineers and their thoughts regarding that pin configuration, its advantages, things learned from running it in their testing, etc? If it is desirable, what attributes need to be addressed in the "build" to take advantage of its benefits? At this point, it seems like more work to keep the vibrations down vs. the L-R-R-L design...

Why stop at at KA24DE? How about an L-16? Its probably lighter will getter mileage, running examples can be had for sometimes free!

Nice illustration of the parts break down Raff, thank you. Generally when you order that fascia, it comes as a kit from Nissan with everything needed to install it on a ’90-’96 USDM Z-32. I ended up using my spare Q-45 marker/blinker bulb-sockets vs the supplied versions as electrically, they did not and could not be modified to work, (found someone else that had the same issue). What they don’t tell you is, this fascia interferes with the air temp sensor in the bottom of the air box. I had the body shop install mine for me, they didn’t catch the air temp sensor/fascia collision, someone else on TT.net caught it from my pics. You can just see the grill bracket hanging down from the top middle of the large opening, the left side of it, (as viewing it in these pics), is tilted downward due to being pushed down by that sensor.

Interested would be an understatement! That intake is my dream topper for an N/A single-plane V-8 crankshaft. Just need to find that part/s-service I have to offer in trade that will seal the deal.

As always Bryan, INCREDIBLE! I hope someday to see your projects in person. Always stunning and very cool. Good work.

The counterbalance mass on the crankshaft would only absorb vibration indirectly, by the sake of “having mass”. The amount of mass or lack of mass on the counter weights has no real effect whatsoever on the 2nd order buzz/vibration produced by a four cylinder/180 degree crank V-8, other than as described above, indirectly just from “having mass”. The 2nd order vibration/buzz comes comes from the rods, pistons, and rod to stroke ratio. That buzz has nothing to do with the crankshaft and the counterbalance mass of the crankshaft. Once a crankshaft is balanced, (recall, when you have a 4 cylinder or 180 degree V-8 crank balanced, it is neutral balanced, no bob weights), it is now balanced to itself so no matter how fast it spins, it will not vibrate or buzz on its own. It can be fully counterbalanced, or partially. If it is balanced, it is balanced, i.e. the “crank” will not buzz.

Good point Doc. I can see how removing the balance shafts from a 4 cyl would have negligible effect. It is quite common to delete the balance shafts during rebuilds of some 4 cylinders, kits available for just that. Most 4 cylinders are small enough and have a large enough rod to stroke ratio that the 2nd order buzz is generally small enough it hides under the firing pulse buzz, but is still there. Where we notice it more is the larger displacement 4’s such as 2.5+L. Volvo 2.3, Pinto 2.3, Iron Duke 2.5-3.0, Mitsu 2.6, Mopar 2.5, etc. Even the Yota 22R “feels” buzzy, as a result of the 2nd order. The Mitsu 2.6, Mopar 2.5 and the new Nissan QR25DE of the Sentra SE-r Spec V, all have a basket under the mains with counter rotating balance shafts that spin at twice crankshaft speed. Something we need to keep in mind, these balance shafts do not “eliminate” or “cancel” the second order, but merely reduce it, by approx ½, as can bee seen by the illustration below. They are a compromise.

Great info racerstech. Thank you for sharing. (Man I LOVE this thread!!! Lots of good stuff guys, keep it coming… ) In looking at your pictures, the crank on the left is “fully” counterbalanced, the one on the right is partially counterbalanced. Regarding the crank cheek counterbalance and engine vibrations, both will exhibit exactly the same balance/imbalance/vibration as the other, which should be none, with regards to the counterbalancing that is. The fully counterbalanced crank uses the counterweights to offset the mass of crank pin, equally on both sides of that individual crank pin. The partially counter balanced crank is using the other crank pin, next to and opposite of, for its counterbalance. In the end, they are BOTH neutral balanced, (Single plane V-8 cranks are not balanced with bob weights. They are balanced just as a typical 4 cylinder crank, neutral. If a 180 degree V-8 crank is balanced using bob wights, that engine WILL vibrate). In those two cranks, here are the advantages/disadvantages; LEFT Pro; Less main bearing wear and less crank flex at elevated RPMS in severe extreme racing environments.. Con; Heavier. The additional rotational mass requires more power to rev just as quickly as a crank with less rotational mass, i.e. it will rev slightly slower. RIGHT Pro; Lighter weight, will rev slightly quicker. Con; In a highly stressed severe racing environment, will have more flex due not have at counterbalance cheeks on both sides of each individual crank pin. In a lowly stressed environment such as street, this is not such a big concern. Courtesy of racerstech. This crank below is an extreme version of a partially counterbalanced 180 degree SBC crank, (less counterbalancing than racerstech crank on the right), and would suffer the most flex in extreme environments as it is relying even more so on the opposing crank pins as the counterbalance, except at the very ends of the crankshaft where there is a counterbalance cheek. Courtesy of David Vizard. I would like to weigh in on how these counterbalance designs applies to a high performance street application. For a street engine that might see 7000-7500 RPM once in awhile, maybe 8000 RPM on a occasion, a forged or billet version of even Vizards example will most likely last longer than our “between overhaul” limits. It is under severe high RPM racing environments that these counterweight designs really start becoming a concern. At that, you would think INDY/IRL as being at the extreme limits of engine design technology right? The Oldsmobile aurora INDY single plane crank V-8, is only partially counterbalanced, same cheeks used for counterbalance as racertechs crank is on the right. Difference is obvious crank pin layout. Designers/engineers for that application possibly found their best compromise in light weight vs durability for that level of racing?... Oldsmobile Aurora Indy V-8, partially counterbalanced crankshaft, (on the right is the 180 degree variant); Secondly, I did want to discuss the crank pin configuration of those two cranks. Back in post #11 an #17, on the first page, I talked about the 2 different crank pin configurations that the 180 degree cranks can be had, illustrated again below in GREEN and BLUE. The typical road and race going Ferrari V-8, all Indy/IRL and F-1 V-8s are a L-R-R-L pin configuration as depicted in the green box, the other style L-R-L-R like racertech’s and Vizards example, depicted in the blue box. Courtesy of me. I have not understood why the L-R-L-R configuration layout would be utilized as in itself induces “another” 2nd order vibration, a rocking couple. An engine utilizing this style of crankshaft pin configuration now suffers from two different 2nd order vibrations vs the L-R-R-L design that only suffers from one 2nd order vibration, (pistons ascending/descending at different rates.) This diagram illustrates the fore-aft rocking couple vibration induced by the L-R-L-R style of crankshaft on a running engine. Courtesy of WeightSaver.com This other rocking couple vibration “can” be canceled with a single balance shaft rotating the opposite direction of the crank shaft and solidly attached to the block. Then the car/occupants would woud not feel the crankshaft vibrations induced by the L-R-L-R design as they would be quelled. This design of balance shaft would be utilized; The other 2nd order vibration for the pistons ascending/descending, (i.e. function the rod to stroke to length), can be "partially" canceled with the use of 2 counter-rotating balance shafts as depicted below. Now these balance shafts not only add to the overall weight of the engine but also to the rotational mass of the engine which will start to sap how quickly the engine revs. That's all I have for now...

Sure you wouldn't want to trade that '99 Z-32 front fascia for a '90-'96 NA or TT fascia?

We have a couple gentlemen working on cleaning up the sold ads and now the original poster in the classifieds can delete his/her own ad at will.

You can't tease us like that and not post up the time slips. I like your simple get-it-done approach. Looks like a fun machine to drive...

What-da-ya know! Oregons 11.3 sec, L-6 driver, jgkurz is 40 today and still going through puberty... (John you're not alone, ALL of us HybridZ'ers are still in puberty...) Happy Birthday Mr John Kurzhals.

Too clean to be $2000. A car as clean as that pict reveals, with such low miles, market value is more like $8k-$12 USD. If it were true, it would of sold within hours of being of posted.

Do you have a service manual for your car? Based on these questions, it seems that you don't have one as those items are in the ignition and electrical sections/diagrams. Its all good. If you don't have one, the Haynes manual is inexpensive and good to have around any how, especially for electrical troubleshooting, torque values, etc, just be sure to get one. The shop manual essentially goes hand in hand with the JTR manual. The Haynes manual has a thorough wiring diagram, albeit a struggle to trace the wires being so small, but is thorough and accurate, including all the electrical pugs etc. If you don't have much of an understanding of basic electrical circuits, then even with the shop manual, some of this will be a struggle not knowing what can and will back feed, etc, but we'll help guide you best we can. In the mean time, here are some answers to your questions… My First JTR V-8 280-Z conversion was back ’97… First pic; Black box. That is just a junction box for the VR leads for the electronic ignition. You no longer need it. Those two/three wires, (GREEN, RED, and if the dizzy had dual pick up, a third BROWN wire ), all go to the ignition module on the passenger foot well kick panel. This module is typically a cast aluminum box approx 4”x4”x1½” square. It can also be removed, though be aware the power wire needs to be protected so it wont ground out. The white block is the ballast resistor for the factory coil. You’ll need to keep the main power wire, (I think its black with white stripe, verify this in your service manual wiring digram), and the blue wire will be your tach signal wire for the V-8. That blue bracket under the fusible links can delete. If you have any more specific questions, just ask. I do ask that you get a shop manual, (factory or Haynes), and then as you ask, we answer, we all can follow along the wiring diagrams, hose routings, etc, in the manual and fill in the gaps/holes that the manual does not or help answer the stuff you may not understand. Once finished, you will enjoy the added torque of the V-8. Good luck, Paul

The JTR Manual is wonderful. Chocked full of valuable info regarding what is and is not needed in converting a Z over to a V-8. We feel it is such a valuable tool for any V-8 Z conversion, we even made it rule #11 in our rules and guidelines. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=135&a=2

You are the second person to bring up casting, first was Kiwi303 back in post #14. My knee jerk reaction the first time it was mentioned was; “blasphemy!” In E-mail/PM, Kiwi shed some light on the subject and I have since warmed up to the idea of a cast crank. I think a casting would probably work just fine and take a lot of the initial work out of the project, i.e. not carving on a huge block of steel for hours to get the initial rough shape! At this point, I would consider a casting, so long as I didn’t have to get too involved in the process. I’m sure I would love learning the ropes of foundry work, etc, especially for a project such as this, but when I get into something, I tend jump in head first and to the deepest point of that subject that I can reach becoming 100% absorbed in that subject. The good of that is I feel comfortable in that arena. Down side, is that all the other things I’m already involved in start to take back seat, family, home, other hobbies, etc. I have too little time as it is with my current load of distractions, one being this project in general. Any foundry workers here that might want to tackle a crankshaft? A short rod does benefit cylinder filling due to piston movement in relation to valve events, intake in particular. Down sides to a shorter rod are more piston side loading of the cylinder walls, more aggressive piston acceleration, and as described above in post #75 is the 2nd order harmonic. Short rod = lots of 2nd order harmonic. Long rod = less 2nd order harmonic. Just to recap on the 2nd order harmonic vibration of the flat plane V-8 and 4 cylinder engines. At any given instant, the velocities of the pistons traveling upward does not equal the velocities of the pistons traveling downward. The net velocity of all eight cylinders is therefore not equal to zero, which causes vibrations, felt as buzziness to the occupants of the vehicle.

Are you talking about “twist forgings”? For the high performance SBC and SBF arena, Crankshaft forgings generally come in two flavors. Twist forgings and Non-twist forgings. The twist forgings are forged flat, in a single plane, then while still red hot are twisted into a dual plane. The die for a non-twist forging is much more costly and complex to manufacture and maintain and due to how the grain structure is arranged in the forging process, the non twist forgings are a tad bit stronger than their twisted brethren, and come at an elevated price as well. Here are a couple pics. First one is a raw GM non-twist forging, the 2nd one is a raw twist forging. Pic courtesy of GMPP… Note the "twist" in the 2nd main journal below... Pic courtesy of crate engine depot. As for cutting an existing dual plane crank and welding it back as single plane? Hmmm... Don't know. I'm sure it can be done. Not sure I would trust just any old fab shop to do this though. It would most likely have to be some expensive gas and temperature controlled environment and then go through X-ray and other non destructive testing prior to use?... Anyone else know more about this concept? In trying to use twist forging, catching one prior to the twisting process, the twist forgings come out of the die in a L-R-L-R pin config then the first and last crank pin are “twisted” 90 degrees and wa-la, dual plane crank. As described earlier, page 1 in posts #11 and #17, the twist forging captured prior to the twisting process in its L-R-L-R config would not be desirable due to the “couple” induced imbalance.

Most likely not the thermostat unless it caused excessive pressure to build up in the cooling system, i.e. stuck closed, over heated, etc… Reasons a Pump would start leaking; Age. Being ran dry, i.e. started and ran with no coolant. Having water only for very extended periods. Water by itself is not a very good seal lubricant, where as coolant is somewhat slippery. Manufacture quality. i.e. reman water pumps use low quality seals and most likely did not prepare the seal surface on the shaft, etc. With a new pump, generally, the seal surface on the shaft is prepped properly, and will have a prelube/vaseline, etc giving the seal a better chance of survival on initial start up. Last but not least, for the L-series, its just part of the territory. These pumps weren’t designed to last 30 years and 170,000 miles. They are relatively inexpensive, and relatively easy to replace. in do time, you'll come to appreciated this bug,... err... ehhh... feature of the L-series.

I was just getting ready to post...

First off, welcome to HybridZ, Secondly, please familiarize yourself with our Rules and Guidelines. Rule #9 says to be sure your post is in the appropriate forum. The engines water pump is not in the interior so the interior sub forum isn’t where this question belongs. (I moved it). Click ME for the HybridZ Rules and Guidelines. Your issue sounds like the VERY typical classic Water pump failure, coolant leaking from behind the water pump pulley. There is a breather hole in the bottom of the water pump, behind the pulley. I'm 99.9% sure your leak is coming from that location. The fix is purchase a NEW water pump. Stay away from reman and life-time warrantly pumps, unless you enjoy swapping water pumps on a VERY regular basis, sometimes on the side of the freeway in the middle of no-where, been there, done that! Just pay the $5-$10 extra for a new pump, regardless of how short the warranty, and it WILL outlast 95% of the reman pumps that cover a life-time warranty. Trust me on this one…. Good luck.