BRAAP

Those comments were in regard to Toddskis wanting to build these on his own, which I then apologized for.

Thank you for pointing that out. We are being a bit finicky aren’t we? There are times and projects that from a practicality stand point, don’t make much sense, but that is no reason not to pursue the project for personal reasons. I know of a few projects that fit that description more so than this topic, one in which I’m working on myself that has not practicality to it whatsoever, but I still have a desire to go through with it anyhow. I guess what I’m saying is, I ‘m sorry for being so insolent in my previous post. Todd, So your engine is eating cams? Am I understanding this correct in that and you are wanting to convert to roller rockers in an effort to keep that from happening, or is it that you just want to tackle such an endeavor because you can/want to, etc? If your engine is eating cams, there is something amiss that shouldn’t require the use of a redesigned rocker/cam interface. The OE valve train is actually quite robust, very durable, and proven itself for hundreds of thousand of miles even with poor oil maintenance etc. If an L-series is eating cams, something is being overlooked as it should not be eating cams. Here are a few things that cause the L-series cams to eat their lobes; 1) Improper cam wipe pattern. The cam lobe is essentially wiping of one end or the other of the rocker. Verifying cam wipe pattern on each and every rocker is imperative, especially if using and aftermarket cam and after the head been overhauled/rebuilt. This is the most common reason. 2) Lack of lubrication. Clogged spray bar port/s in an externally oiled system or someone installed an externally oiled cam with cam towers for internally oiled cam, (the lobes aren't getting oil). 3) Lack of Zinc in modern motor oils is a hot topic recently, especially for flat tappet cams. The domestic V-8’s with flat tappets are more susceptible to cam failure due to this vs the L-series with the V8’s need to “rotate” their lifters. 4) Soft cam cores as used by some aftermarket cam manufactures. I’m not so sure that these failure aren’t a combination of lack of Zinc AND the soft core, as we seem to be seeing more and more failures now than we used to 15 odd years ago, or at least people are talking about it more lately?... Anyhow, just throwing that out there incase it might help. Good luck with your project, Paul

I’m curious, if you don’t mind sharing, 1) how much, and of, 2) what gain are you expecting these roller rockers will afford vs the current design? Are you trying reduce valve train friction for better fuel efficiency? Take advantage of more aggressive ramp rates allowing more lift under the curve for a given lobe profile, (more power with less compromise in drivability?) Jon already brought up the question, is it really worth the time, money, and effort for how much gain in what area, not taking into account the amount of research and development required that will allow you to take advantage of what roller rockers offer? I’m assuming the perosn Tony mentioned that has done this, has been able to meet or exceeded OE valve train geometry, stability, and durability with these roller rockers?...

The profile is much MUCH nicer, cleaner, flowing, contemporary. (I must be getting old).... As others have stated, the lights?... not my flavor either.

Her family is in our prayers..

Part of me wants to leave it here in the "Cars for Sale" section... One technique would be to use a bolt or tap that "just" engages the ID of the sheared off tube. That will allow you to grab the tap/bolt that is now threaded into the tube and pull it out. In using the tap, be aware that metal shavings WILL fall down through the tube...

Here is the thread with photos of a Turbo 2JZ inline 6 conversion in a Z-31, complete and running, and is wicked quick! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133245

Yes it is UGLY!!! Functional for the job of V-8 mock up, YES! Aesthetically pleasing, NO! Currently has a bare SBC block in the engine bay to get an idea of what would be involved fro a quick and dirty conversion. Not liking the amount of cutting/clearancing needed to get the crank centerline to the OE elevation in the chassis and the shifter of the T-56 even remotely close to the OE location. With the SBC bell housing butted against the firewall, the T-56 shifter is still 2" forward of the OE shifter location and the crank centerline is approx 1 1/2"-2" higher than the VG30DE centerline using an OE SBC oil pan sitting ON the cross-member. Current plans are to install my VH45DE in the Z-32 with a scratch built intake to clear the hood use the Z-32 5 speed, (cringing....) Z-32's definitely are NOT as easy to HYBRID as the S-30! The MULE as I received it! Any how, lets get back to "L-6 in a Z-31"...

It would take quite a bit of work for it to fit. Installed as is in the photo, oil pan resting on the cross-member, the front portion of the cam cover would protrude out of the hood. The cross member is pretty far rear rearward and wide, (front to back), with the rack attached at the rear of the cross-member. Firewall would have to be cut out to clear the upper portion of the bell-housing. Basically, it looks like everything that has been to the car regarding cutting, clearancing, etc, that has been for SBC Z-32 conversions is essentially what needs to be done for the L-6 to fit.

As an FAA certified A&P, (Aviation Air-Frame & Power-Plant technician), having worked as a aviation reciprocating engine machinist, been involved with Turbine engines as well, currently build and machine automotive power plants professionally, I have learned that mechanics/technicians are not engineers. Tony’s point is from the engineer perspective. The mechanics perspective really is installation, removal, and repair, regardless of the conversations those mechanics have during the removing, installing and restoring of parts/components and power plants…

1) Meth is most likely not chemically compatible with the diaphragm membrane. 2) At the pressure the stock Mechanical Fuel Pump functions up to, the cold start injector would only trickle into the manifold, not a spray which is what you would want. 3) If the pump could be altered to function at elevated pressures taking advantage of the cold start injectors atomizing ability say in the 20-30 PSI range, the diaphragm membrane would most likely burst in a short period of time. 4) The cold start injector location is a poor location for single point injection. Cylinder to cylinder consistency would be quite poor. Mounting it ahead of the TB would more ideal. 5) Electric pump allows you to control when the system is pressurized vs being pressured the entire time the engine is running. Personally, I see far too many cons to using mech pump with so many easier, quicker, more cost effective ways to accomplish this.

Been covered here before. Manufacturers web page with animation of pump internals; http://www.racepumps.com/ HybridZ thread; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123508 Pic courtesy of RacePumps.com

I dropped an L-26 into the engine bay of my Z-32 mock up mule in jest, showing how I was going to remedy all the labor intensive maintenance of the VG30DE… Didn’t realize someone actually did it! Cool!

Good answer... Wool thong! Drag race or Autocross?

Diff, yes. Suspension? Anything is possible, the amount of work to convert the 77 Chapman strut design over to the Z-31 semi trailing arm would take quite a bit of fabrication. Any particular reason why you would want to use the Semi trailing arm suspension over the Chapman design that is in the car currently? The early '70-'78 rear suspension has proven to work VERY well for both handling and straight line performance, from stock applications to extremely wild!

Mid 80's to at least mid 90's MPFI GM used that quick disconnect style plug. Buick, Pontiac, Olds with the 3.8 V-6, etc...

Daisy Red Rider! Dyno Jet or Mustang Dyno?

The Hartley V-8 is an incredible little power plant. Been following it and Dennis Palatov's awesome creation in the second link, for about two years now. The Hartley is cool and meets the intended final goal of sound and power, but it is already done, defeating the purpose of building this ourselves. I would much rather keep discussion here, to building one of our own rather than purchasing a complete engine already done.

It is how, (more accurately, how abruptly), the power is applied to the tires plays a HUGE role in the busted parts we see. It is quite obvious that JnJ is putting that power to the tires a bit more gently than others that have busted parts using less sticky street tires and half the torque/HP JnJ is producing.

Physically, I don't see why not. There is an RB Z-31 running around that is stupid quick. Regarding the firing order, the EFI wont care what the firing order is. The old EFI is batch fire, i.e. all the injectors open and close at the exact same time.

Feed cat to dawg. Both issues solved! Mechanical pencil; Top clicker or side clicker?

Davy skipped the previous question because he takes both, so its bigger! :lmao:

Widescreen.. Viagra or Cialis?

Exactly. I added another reference in my post above.