BRAAP

I just happened to have a new set of L-6 ARP head studs. SPec sheet has the torque value at the bottom, highlighted in Green in the pic below. Torque value is 60 ft lbs with the ARP lube. No mention of torque value with motor oil, sorry. Some instances such as rod bolts, they offer both, torque spec with motor oil is always higher. If you don't have the ARP Assy lube, you can usually get it from most auto parts stores that sell and/or stock ARP fasteners. ARP part number for the lube is 100-9902 ARP contact info; ARP 1863 Eastman Avenue Ventura, CA 93003 Hours: 7:30am - 4:30 pm PST Will Call Hours: 8:00am - 4:00pm PST Order Desk & Technical Support: 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200, fax: 805.650.0742, info@arpfasteners.com Sales & Marketing: 805.339.2200 Hope this helps… Paul

1) L-series head bolt holes are blind, i.e. they do NOT go into the water jacket. No sealer required. Install the studs in the block finger tight only. Some prefer to install the studs finger tight in the block then back them out 1/8-1/4 turn after they bottom so that all stress upon final torquing is on the threads only, no loads/stresses on the stud chamfer or bottom of the hole. 6 one, half dozen the other. Do use motor oil or anti seize on the portion you thread into the block to ease removal in the future. They should come back out with your fingers if and when that time arises. 2) Follow the ARP Torque spec to the letter, do NOT deviate from the ARP torque spec recommendations! They typically list two different torque specs, one with motor oil, the other with their assembly lube. The torque spec is specific to the fastener, regardless of the part being clamped or any gaskets used. The idea is to get the fastener, (bolt or stud), to the point is starting to stretch, and in this stretched springy tension state, is where the fastener is best used. It wont come loose, and it is just short of it yield. We joking refer to over tightened fasteners as bubbas torque spec called, “race tight”! 3) 1 fast z may want to add his input on this well, if so, follow his advice. Hope that helps, Paul

I just happen to have a pair of S-30 Fiberglass front fenders. Check your PM.

Excellent advice... You could start your own Datsun tuner shop, or move to the left coast and work for us...

More than likely, the V-8 conversion was done in the JTR config, (most popular). As such, if you didn’t get the conversion manual with car, you will want to get one. It covers the complete install including motor mounts, transmission options, trans mounts, shifter linkage, setting up the stock speedo to work with the GM trans, calibrating the tach for the V-8, how to use the stock oil pressure and water temp gauges, complete cooling section, starter and GM alternator wiring for the Z, differential options, suspension mods, even covers a little bit of Emissions for those that need to meet some DEQ requirements. Lots of pics, diagrams, etc. Here is the book; http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

For the OE style seals, Felpro or otherwise, just be sure they pop down fully over the guide, simple as that. For seals not designed for the L-6 but used on the L-6, that is when you need to very careful...

Besides lacking any capitalization and punctuation whatsoever, your post is not really pertinent to this discussion of the BCDD on an EFI L-6, its removal and how that allows an overly rich mixture during decel/drop throttle causing the popping in the exhaust, which has already been explained, in detail.

Oh sooooo very true... When I bought mine it already had all 6 fuel injectors swapped out once prior. Over the last year I have swapped out 3 of those once new OE NISSAN Red top injectors, one at a time, (Dremel method, but with die grinder)! Last one was just last week! These cars eat their injectors for breakfast lunch and dinner. The intake manifold covers the entire engine bay burying everything that needs maintenance and it is not a quick or easy task to remove. I have been told it is essentially easier to remove the engine to service the main maintenance items under the intake than it is to remove the intake in car. That is the main reason I WILL be ripping out the VG to install something else to ease future maintenance, and to increase the ease at which it can turn tires into Instrument Meteorological Conditions, i.e. FOG!

Larry, Sandy High on Bluff Rd. COOL! Next time you are in this neck of the woods, look us up. We are relatively new the area ourselves, moved here in ’01. If you've been down to Dodge Park or Roslyn lake you‘ve driven right past our place, NW corner of Roslyn Lake across from McKinnon air strip. As for the pictures, I just happen to have written detailed instructions including pics on how to do just that. Just click this link… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123389 Hope that helps, Paul

I don't think so. To be honest with you, regarding all the info I have been unable to uncover regarding single plane crank V-8’s thus far, I have not found any definitive proof of the use of counterbalance shafts in Indy, F-1 etc. My guess is the stroke is short enough, rod length long enough, the 2nd order is small enough to just live with… In other forums where the topic has been brought up, (nothing near as in-depth as the discussions on this forum, just the concept brought up), people have claimed balance shafts to be used in single plane V-8’s. Wouldn’t surprise me if any did or did not, I just haven’t uncovered any proof either way, yet… Personally, I’ve only seen the twin counter rotating used in 4 cylinders and the single valley mount version in 90 degree V-6. Pssst…. Doc, I have a treat for you. Visited the shop owned by the daughter of the late Mickey Thompson this weekend, (we’ve known Lyndy Thompson and Pat Blair since the late ‘80’s) got some pics I’m sure you’ll be interested in. under 2000-lb BBC powered Plymouth Laser, a raer Mickey Thompson Magnesium block SBC, etc... I've been given permission to publicly post the pics etc, later this week.

Hoov, Two totally different animals. Having done several L powered S-30s, a few V-8 S-30s, a couple Z-32s, and a Q-45, all as daily drivers and some S-30 as race cars as well, I have learned the S-30 and Z-32 are 2 totally different animals and one just cannot replace the other. Both would be ideal, though in having to choose just one, it depends on how much comfort and plushness one desires vs a more raw intimate relationship between man, machine, and road. I’m right now in a similar situation; 1) Supercharged SBC T-56 S-30, (I have ALL the power train parts minus cam and headers), for my ’75 shell. 2) My ’96 Q-45 that was rear ended is the donor for my current daily driver, ’93 Z-32. I am planning to build BOTH! The S-30 platform is a more raw and pure form of communication between the car, the road, and the driver vs the Z-32. The S-30 is high in fun factor, lighter weight, more of an intimate relationship during the “drive”. It is low tech, simplistic, nostalgic, is adorned by lovers of vintage sports cars world wide. It does take more effrot to drive, but that is part of its charm. The Z-32 is more insulated, heavier, plush, a complex sports car with a modern exotic look, conducive for those evenings out to black tie affairs. Conversations with a significant other on a long drive across the country can be had without having to raise ones voice. It is sporty, though not racy. Feels great up to 7-8 tenths, above that level, its weight and insulation between road and driver are more evident vs the S-30. And excerpt from another thread; I vote build both. Each will fill a specific role that the other just cannot fully fill.

Kiwi, I think you may have missed something. Both styles of balance shafts address different vibrations. Yes typical 4 cylinder and dual plane V-8 crankshaft with the pin config in L-R-R-L above do utilize the dual counter rotating balance shafts depicted immediately below, to help “lessen”, not eliminate, the 2nd order harmonics due to the difference in pistons speeds as the pistons lave TDC and BDC. This single counterbalance shaft is to address a whole other 2nd order vibration that only the crankshaft pin config in L-R-L-R is possessed with, (the rocking couple as depicted by the tire pic below). The single balance shaft helps remove most if not all the 2nd order induced by the L-R-L-R crankshaft design. In essence with the L-R-L-R crank pin configuration, you could use both the "dual counter rotation shafts" AND this single shaft. The crank in the L-R-R-L would not use that single style balance shaft. Courtesy of WeightSaver.com

That is totally wicked!!!!

That's much better. You are sure the trans is in 3rd gear.. Hmmm... What is the diff ratio and your tire size? Is the torque converter a high stall converter? Sounds like your rear gears are too deep and/or the converter is a high stall converter. If the converter is a high stall and is matched to the engines power band, then the engine should be able to handle more RPM and you might look into taller rear gears. The T-5 would definitely solve this issue.

(You meant the "LT 1 head" conversion, right? The intake manifold conversion quote sort of confuses it until you read, then reared the linked thread a couple times... ) I like it. A Hybrid Chevy for a HybridZ. I’m still a bit skeptical though. With LT 1 heads coolant passages designed and cast specific for the funky LT 1 cooling flow, it would be interesting to know if the coolant passages in the LT 1 heads themselves, are conducive to a mod such as this, i.e. no air pockets or regions in the head with no flow due to how the engineers designed the casting to accommodate how and where the coolant flowed through those heads originally?… Personally, I would put more faith in this mod if it were accepted and used by more than one reputable tuner shop, that is, and has done this on several engines that have seen several hundred/thousand miles.

So you have the gas pedal to the FLOOR the entire trip down the strip, engine would only rev up to 5000 RPM which just so happened to be 85 MPH? No more acceleration, no more RPM... With what little specifics you provided, this is what I come up with. Sounds like 2 separate issues. 1) The trans is in 2nd gear, didn’t shift into 3rd, hence the 80-85 MPH top speed. Either the shifter is 2nd gear instead of D/3, shift linkage needs adjustment, internal trans issues not allowing 3rd gear engagement, or possibly kick down out of adjustment. 2) Your engine is struggling to run any where near as strong as it could. It should easily rev past 5000 RPM even at 85 MPH, unless your brakes are dragging, really bad! If not the brakes, then the carb is WAY out of tune or ignition timing is WAY too far advanced or WAY too far retarded, cam timing is WAY off, clogged exhaust, clogged intake, your carb isn't opening fully with the throttle fully depressed... etc etc etc...

LT 1 intake does not have the coolant outlet your TPI engine requires. In short, No, it wont work. And make it count..

WHOA!!!!! LT 1 heads on a first gen block?!?!?! My crystal ball predicts the future of that block/head combo... On a serious note, the TPI engine does not share the same block as the LT 1 and you can not use LT 1 heads on a TPI small block, (or vice versa). The TPI engines are 1st generation small blocks, the LT 1 is a second generation small block and has several architectural design changes that do NOT allow the heads to interchange with other generations, (hence the term gen I and gen II), mainly coolant paths/passages. LT 1 blocks and heads have totally revised, completely different cooling paths. The coolant flow IN and OUT of an LT-1 is through the front of the block itself. In Gen I small blocks, the coolant flows IN the front of the block, and OUT of the heads through the intake manifold. The LT-1 does not have that provision. Coolant will not "flow" when using LT1 heads on a gen I small block, thus creating the figurative train wreck. ***edit*** Correction. As per Wheelmans post, yes it can be done. Is it realistic? As Ken eluded to, that answer lies deep in the mind of the person holding the knowledge and skills to make it happen...

You do have a shop manual of some sort right? Haynes manual even? ALL of the critical engine torque values are in there. As professional engine builder/machinist, I do NOT recommend assembling and engine without some sort of shop manual. The shop manual should be followed while assembling the engine. Even guys that have built hundreds or thousands of engines still refer to a shop manual, if only for torque values. A forum really is not a replacement for a shop manual... Do yourself and your car a huge favor. Go to the local parts store and get a haynes manual for your Z car. Good luck and I hope your engine turns out fine.

You are exactly right, though the problem "is" getting the pistons "to" BDC! Head is removed, timing chain tensioner tool in place!... Not really a good idea to just rotate the crank at this point...

I may be wrong here, haven't ran the math, but doesn't rod length also come into play? In my other crankshaft project studies learning about the 2nd order harmonics and rod to stroke ratios, etc, as I understand it, different rod lengths will have the pistons at different points in the bore for a given crankshaft rotation due to rod angularity. Rod lengths will alter the rod angularity throughout the stroke, therefore the position of the piston in the bore. This is most notable closer to TDC and BDC. Longer rods tend allow the piston to dwell at TDC longer over a given degree of crank rotation vs shorter rods. If this is correct, knowing the rod length is critical. Other options are just pull the pan and check for a V-07 crank, or pull the front cover for access to the chain tensioner and just rotate the crank till another piston hits BDC, measure the stroke. Or cut a cylinder head down so that you can utilize a cam tower or 2 with a scrap cam to hold the cam gear and chain so you can rotate till a visible piston reaches BDC. I have such a beast myself. A small section of N-47 head, cut off in between the intake and exhaust valve of the #1 cylinder, the front cam tower, and the cam cut off flush to the tower. Works great for having access to all the pistons, (half of #1 cylinder is exposed) while rotating the crank with the front cover/chain in place. Also works for transporting short blocks with the timing chain set, (That is what it was originally used for).

INCREDIBLE! GORGEOUS! INSPIRATIONAL!

That would hold true for a V-8 or 4 cylinder, but not a 6 cylinder. most 6 cylinders, (all Datsun/Nissan L-6's) crank throws are 120 degrees apart. The pistons travel in unison in pairs. 1-6, 2-5 and 3-4. In the 4 event cycle, these paired pistons are in the opposite event from each other, i.e. if one is compression, the other is exhausting. If one is on the intake, the other is on the power stroke. At any rate, with 2 pistons at TDC the other 4 pistons are at the same distance down the bore, not quite at BDC. 2 are on the way up, the other 2 on the way down. This illustration shows typical inline 6 cylinder crank-pin lay out.

In 10 more years we will be yearning for the days when cars had an actual shifter lever, clutch pedal, EGR valve, filament light bulbs. I’m with ya Stony. How much performance would the car actually loose if it had a simpler, lighter, less expensive to manufacture 5/6 speed trans? And what is with all these ridiculous controls in todays automobiles? Launch, yaw, stability, etc… As a pilot, the airplane to pilot interface is complex only because all the airplanes systems are simple in design, the pilot does all the thinking. Todays cars, GT-R included, do all thinking and the pilot still has a complex check list to run through during his/her drive... Manufactures also include a button in the GT-R that will void the warranty if it is used?!?! Honestly! How many dang “set-up” buttons/switches does one car need? VDC-R, norm, comfort, race. Launching, traction control, yaw control, overdrive deactivation, and the most important, yet not included on any of the modern automobiles offered today, but sorely needed, the anti yawn control… What happened to cars and the character they possessed? My Q-45, numb and boring. My Z-32 is numb and mundane to just drive around, though is spirited at 7 tenths, but still doesn't communicate with much intensity to the driver of what the car is doing. Get into an S-30 and its character is its charm. the smells, noises, vibrations, feel of the controls, etc. Todays offerings are so non-evasive to the driver, he is being further and further disconnected from the “driving” experience. As a pilot, we must show proficiency in high performance launch/take off scenarios, and the manufacture even outlines the ideal settings and techniques to achieve such, without a bunch of complicated buttons and no voided warranties. If I had the money to buy a GT-R, I’d purchase a Cessna way before I’d buy a GT-R! The Cessna can be purchased used for far less initial cost, and it appears to be less annual cost of ownership as well. The Cessna will safely pull 3 times the G’s the GT-R does, can cruise at 140+ MPH for extended periods with far less HP, (hours on end legally), will get you to your destination in much less time. Oh, and for you single guys, Chicks REALLY dig air planes!!!! ...stepping down off my soap box...

(We posted at the same time...) DOH!!!! Hmmmm.... So you need six @ .220" and six @ .260", right? How soon do you absolutely have to have them? I.e. can you hang tight for approx 2 weeks?