BRAAP

I have been looking more and more closely at the GM Gen III/IV engines lately. My guess is if the DOD is present and you are using the OEM computer, there must be a way to utilize it. Otherwise, I would assume most of its components could be removed, (the oil pressure fed actuators are in the valley,) for a V-8 Z car. The fact that the L76 has VVT, (Variable Valve Timing by way of phasing the “in-block” cam), that is very intriguing. For those who don’t know what GM’s DOD is, it is the acronym for Displacement On Demand. The official GM acronym is AFM which stands for Active Fuel Management or AFM. I prefer the DOD acronym myself. Here are the current GM RPO’s with AFM, Comp ratio, and block material. 5.3L; LH6 AFM (most versions) 9.9:1 Alum. LY5 AFM 9.9:1 Iron LMG AFM (Flex Fuel) 9.9:1 Iron LC9 AFM (Flex Fuel) 9.9:1 Alum LS4 AFM (FWD cars) 10:1 Alum (Buick Lacrosse, Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, Chev Impala SS, Monte Carlo SS) 6.0L; LFA AFM (Hybrid w/VVT and LIVC) 10.8:1 Alum L76 AFM 10.4:1 for car versions, (VVT in Truck versions w/9.6:1) Alum (Pontiac G8 GT) Alum (LIVC is GM’s Late Intake Valve Closure) These 2 RPO’s are VVT only, no AFM/DOD 6.0L; LY6 VVT 9.6:1 Iron 6.2L; L92 VVT 10.5:1 Alum

This car is heavy, as such I prefer to add a couple more cylinders, mainly due the increased displacement/torque that accompanies those cylinders. Goal is at least 300 streetable crank HP in N/A trim. Leaves me the option of boost in the future.

Can I use your L-20b? If you mock up the long block, I'll set it in the engine bay for pics. L-26 in the engine bay of the Z-32 mock up mule...

Okity dokity. I have a HybridZ project on the drawing board that I want take off the board and get in the shop, ASAP. With my other projects on the drawing board, I feel I’m getting a bit confused over the direction I want to take. The projects on the drawing board, in no particular order or priority; 1) Single plane V-8 Crankshaft; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139545 2) Project FUZZY, Super-charged SBC 350 w/T-56; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115326 3) Installing a V-8 in my Z-32; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=742283 4) And more than a few other non Z related hobbies. This urgent HybridZ project is my current daily driver, ’93 N/A Z-32 coupe. It didn’t take long to learn the Z-32 is not a “reliable” car to own, especially as a daily driver. This particular engine has now had a total of 9 OE Nissan injectors swapped in since new. 6 of which from the previous owner, the last three in the past year since I’ve owned the car, (swapping in used OE injectors, new cost more than I want to spend on this engine), and more are giving me fits currently! The next time I open the hood to replace these failing injector the VG30DE will still be attached to that injector as I remove it! No more swapping injectors on an engine that just doesn’t turn my crank, so to speak. With injectors failing right now, that time is now. All along the plan has been to install the VH45DE from my Q-45 into this Z-32; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117998 Being anal and particularly fussy about even the smallest details with my personal projects, I planned to take the time to do this conversion, end result to be OE but with a few personal enhancements such as custom intake, etc. in appearance and function. I figured it would take me at least 9 mos to a year. With the latest injector woes my desire is to remove the VG30DE post haste and I’m not quite ready to put this car down for a year or so. With that in mind, I’m opening up my Hybrid power plant options beyond the VH45DE. VH45DE; The VH45DE has been done and those that have done were not just a quick bolt in and drive conversion. Hope to mock up my VH45DE in my Z-32 V-8 mock up mule by New Years. (Will have the VH45DE out of the Q-ship by this weekend.) Gen I SBC; In dropping a mock up SBC in my Z-32 V-8 mock up mule, it became painfully obvious that a traditional SBC is not a simple bolt-in-&-drive either. I will revisit this as I have a sweetheart of a Supercharged SBC 350 and T-56 already, that is SURE to fix the this cars current lack of torque… Gen III/IV SBC, (LSx derivative); I have an ’01 LM7 5.3 out my wifes Suburban sitting on the shop floor, hope to mock it up in the Z-32 V-8 mock up mule by New years. (I told RonTyler he could have the 5.3 if he wants to use it for any of his own projects. He mentioned his 2 door 510?! I’d like to see him do that one.) SBF; Something else I want to consider is the SBF 302, more than likely with boost. (I have a Eaton M-112 super charger sitting on the shelf ready to “blow” a V-8) The front sump of the SBF just may work out to my advantage in the Z-32 engine bay and the lighter weight nicer shifting T-5 would be an upgrade over the heavy Z-32 5 speed as well. I have a bare 302 block, just need a pair of heads and an oil pan for mock up… Anyone near-by have a pair of core SBF heads and an oil pan? Nissan was not as nice in designing the Z-32 as they were with S-30 when it came to engine bay space! The Z-32 engine bay is short in length and the friggin crossmember and rack are so wide, right in the middle of the bay taking up almost all of the space a typical oil pan sump would reside! That is the biggest obstacle I see in this endeavor. I'll post pics as I mock up the various power-plants over the next few weeks.

For what it's worth, you should be able to find a good running replacement L-6 for less $$$.$$ than it will cost to rebuild one.

Gentlemen, This thread, in my mind, is one of those core technical discussion addressing an issue that all L-6’s seem to be plagued with, being hyper sensitive to detonation. As such I would like to change the title of this thread to something like; “Reducing the L-6 detonation sensitivity” “Cooling mods to reduce L-6 detonation sensitivity” “?????....????” I didn’t want to just do so without running this past the original poster, TimZ, and the core contributors in this thread first for their input.

Here is a hint. This pic is real, no photo-shop. Nitrous, dual quad, supercharged small block and this R-200 diff is stock, other than welded spider gears, and runs 9.2 @ 153 MPH! The half shafts are your weak link, and being semi trailing arm rear suspension that weak ink is exaggerated. Stock Datsun Half shafts were used in that car pictured above and did hold up, I seem to recall they did bust a few, though the JnJ boys spent some time to be sure there was no angularity of the U-joints during launch, (that is the secret to getting the half-shafts to survive abusive launches, which is more difficult with the ZX semi trailing rear suspension). Those gentlemen that own/race that Z eventually upgraded to the 300ZX CV half shafts. Hope that helps.

Interesting info, thank you. For a smaller bore in the SBC, a 305 block could be used and are quite cheap, sometimes free with its smaller bore at 3.736” or the 262 V-8 block from the Monza which has bore of 3.670”. For this project, I would like to retain as much bore as possible for displacement sake. Vizard agreed and recommend using the 400 block with its 4.125” bore. The Aurora V-8 is a very cool engine and would make an incredible platform for this project. I truly a feel a 4 valve V-8 is a more practical choice given the exoticness of this endeavor, though that exoticness does add to the cost of building this project, gaskets, bearings rings, etc, (the consumable parts cost considerably more for the modern multi valve V-8 engines vs the ole 2 valve domestic V-8), not including the cost of the crank and the cost of all 4 new custom cams would be outrageous. Unless one of the import quad cam V-8’s could utilize the camshafts from any of the twin cam 4 cylinder engines as those already have the firing order we need for a single plane V-8, and off the shelf cams are going to be much easier on the pocket book. I did briefly consider using my 32 valve 4.5L quad cam all aluminum V-8, again for me, the cost in the rebuild scrapped that idea. VH45DE from my Infiniti Q-45, was rear ended 2 years ago totaling the car, sparing the front of the car, purchased it back for a song, currently sits on blocks in front of the shop, hope to use the VH45DE in a Z car project in the near future. Possibly my current daily Driver Z-32.

Jon, In looking for a 5.3, be aware, the 4.8 is the same engine. Now I'm not saying you should install a 5.3 and claim it as a 4.8 for lower weight penalty, because the officials could ask you to pull a spark plug if you are ever protested Not sure if the injectors are different flow rate or not. In your search for a 5.3, thought you might find this helpful. Courtesy of PERA Courtesy of PERA http://www.pera.org/articles/eb120317.htm'>http://www.pera.org/articles/eb120317.htm

Jon, I just purchased a 5.3 two weeks ago and swapped it in my wifes '01 Suburban, (hers seized a roller in the #4 intake lifter. Motor just needs a cam and lifter which we have in a '01 Vette LS-1 short block that is had been sitting in the barn for a few years, (rusted cylinders). Trying to talk Ron into installing this 5.3 in his 510!!!). When I purchased the used replacement 5.3, I specificly wanted a good condition low mileage engine, cost a little more according to John at B & R. It was sold to me as long block, but still came with tons of extra parts, at a very nice price to Rusch Motorsports. John at B&R here Portland told me this engine typically retails for $1500. It came complete with intake manifold TB, all sensors, all 8 coils, engine EFI harness, water pump, A/C bracket, motor mounts, exhaust manifolds and few other goodies not considered part of the long block. All those extras are as is, free bonus with no warranty, but they do warranty the long block itself Not being up on the rules, but you mentioned displacement and minimum weight. FWIW, the 4.8 and 5.3 are the exact engine, same exact block intake etc. The ONLY difference between the the two long blocks is obviously the shorter stroke,, the 4.8 uses a longer rod, and uses a flat top piston. The 5.3 is a dished piston, same exact bore. I will be weighing the 5.3 I removed from my wifes Burb in bare short block form, comparing it to the 01' Vette LS-1 we have here, in the exact same short block trim to get and idea of just how much of weight penalty the 5.3 suffers vs the aluminum LS. Might have that done this weekend, if time allows. If you want any specific pics, dimensions, etc, just drop me a line... 4.8-5.3-6.0 "general" exterior dimensions; Courtesy, PacePerformance

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Looking forward to hearing what your friend has to say regarding Ferrari using Balance shafts in their V-8’s and any other cool tidbits he might reveal. Gollum, That is exactly what I was thinking. I have no plans or desire to use a balance shaft/s in this project.

Whew.... Thank goodness...

WOWZERS Incredible...

No so much "better" as a different approach to optimizing certain handling characteristics. During transitional maneuvers such as driving a slalom, the polar-moment, or Dumb-bell effect is reduced by moving the vehicles components closer to the point of rotation/pivot, in this case, the component with the most mass, the engine and trans! Courtesy of Autozine.org These cars are already essentially 50-50 weight distribution. This mod gives more of a rear weight bias along with reducing the polar moment. Depending on the application, some feel a rearward wight bias is more ideal, (think rear engine Porsche), others feel 50-50 is more ideal. Again, depends on the application and intended use, driver, etc. Everything is a compromise, you trade one attribute for another. This topic should really be discussed in another thread. Sorry for the thread-jack fellas.

Thank you. That "was" a custom autocross/street project Ron Tyler was building for himself, low polar moment. He had me customize the N-42 manifold. He has since gone away from factory intakes and builds his own from scratch. That car currently is sitting behind the shop, hopefully to be resurrected in the future. The Turbo project was scrapped, though just recently another version resurrected, this time in his current 260-Z driver...

Yes, most of the time when removing the dimples you will find the mounting holes, but that is OK. Some feel the injector screws themselves when tight seal pretty good. Personally I prefer to seal them with an Epoxy, usually JB Weld. All of the manifolds that I have customized, (several of them), I removed those runner dimples and use JB weld in the runner to fill the mounting holes that do get exposed. I just work a little bit into the hole keeping the manifold upright the entire time, (don’t want the JB Weld to run up the threads…), then just use a small piece of paper to hold the JB in the hole till it has set up. Once it has set up, using the die grinder, carve the paper/excess JB-Weld blending it into the runner. The threads in the mounting hole hold the JB weld giving a 100% positive seal. I have pics of inside the runners somewhere but cant find them... At any rate, here is a sampling of a few of the intakes I have done using that method;

The RBR looks pretty good Dave. A few years back, When the Dream Cast came out I got hooked on F-355 Ferrari challenge. Haven’t played it in a couple years, kids still play Ready2Rumble on the Dreamcast once in while. The Suzuka Short course is very much like an Autocross course with a little more speed, spent way too much time driving that course. The physics engine of the DreamCast version felt very real, truly enjoyed it. Limited to just the F-355 car, does allow some minor chassis tuning such as limited adjustments of the sway bar, springs, wing and LSD effectiveness. Found this clip of the Suzuka short course on YouTube.

Our engine Machine service is limited to cylinder head work. Surfacing, 4-5 angle valve seats, etc. We are not set up for any block, crank, rod/piston machine work, sorry. Bearing Service Co. is well known and reputable. HybridZ member Phred is an engine builder, L-series savvy, not sure if owns/work at a machine shop or not. He is in the Gresham area, (EastCo?).

12 Stones! Nikon or Cannon?

I just happened to have a new set of L-6 ARP head studs. SPec sheet has the torque value at the bottom, highlighted in Green in the pic below. Torque value is 60 ft lbs with the ARP lube. No mention of torque value with motor oil, sorry. Some instances such as rod bolts, they offer both, torque spec with motor oil is always higher. If you don't have the ARP Assy lube, you can usually get it from most auto parts stores that sell and/or stock ARP fasteners. ARP part number for the lube is 100-9902 ARP contact info; ARP 1863 Eastman Avenue Ventura, CA 93003 Hours: 7:30am - 4:30 pm PST Will Call Hours: 8:00am - 4:00pm PST Order Desk & Technical Support: 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200, fax: 805.650.0742, info@arpfasteners.com Sales & Marketing: 805.339.2200 Hope this helps… Paul

1) L-series head bolt holes are blind, i.e. they do NOT go into the water jacket. No sealer required. Install the studs in the block finger tight only. Some prefer to install the studs finger tight in the block then back them out 1/8-1/4 turn after they bottom so that all stress upon final torquing is on the threads only, no loads/stresses on the stud chamfer or bottom of the hole. 6 one, half dozen the other. Do use motor oil or anti seize on the portion you thread into the block to ease removal in the future. They should come back out with your fingers if and when that time arises. 2) Follow the ARP Torque spec to the letter, do NOT deviate from the ARP torque spec recommendations! They typically list two different torque specs, one with motor oil, the other with their assembly lube. The torque spec is specific to the fastener, regardless of the part being clamped or any gaskets used. The idea is to get the fastener, (bolt or stud), to the point is starting to stretch, and in this stretched springy tension state, is where the fastener is best used. It wont come loose, and it is just short of it yield. We joking refer to over tightened fasteners as bubbas torque spec called, “race tight”! 3) 1 fast z may want to add his input on this well, if so, follow his advice. Hope that helps, Paul

I just happen to have a pair of S-30 Fiberglass front fenders. Check your PM.

Excellent advice... You could start your own Datsun tuner shop, or move to the left coast and work for us...