disepyon

FOUND the problem!!! it was a clogged up fuel filter. After spraying the hell out of it with the air hose, fuel actually pass through it now. I must have a dirty azz fuel tank. took awhile to prime the fuel but everything works now. debating wether or not to replace it.... I already have a ls1 motor im swapping in it, but wont be until spring time.

This may be a dumb question, but does my 1972 240z have a electrical fuel pump or just the mechanical one on the engine and thats it? Cause im reading the clymer manual and it says the 240z does not use the carbon canister or electric fuel pump. the mechanical pump had been replaced when i bought the car in mid october. Ive looked everywhere underneath my car and dont see the electrical fuel pump like the 260z has.

NO, has about half a tank.

Well i just found out that the fuel lines going to the carbs are bone dry, even when i turn the key on in the ignition position no fuel and when i try and crank no fuel. could this be a fuel pump failure? Spark plugs are terrible condition but should still spark.

The engine is the stock L24 with su carbs. ITs been about a week or so since i drove it back when it was warmer out. Now that its cold and winter is here the engine wont start up. It just turns. IT wont attempt at all to try and fire up, just keeps turning over and over. Any help please? im fairly new with this motor and carbs. Thanks, Brent

Looks good to me 503Alex, but i am in no position in giving you advice, im no suspension expert. I am curious though as to why i havent seen anyone else have a rear camber setup like you as in adjustable camber like the front setup. How did McKinney convert the rear coilovers like the fronts for camber?

Just wondering what camber plates did you buy for your stance coilover setup? did you get them from zcc (im not sure if they even align with the stance)? Also how would i go about ordering the stance coils with the adaptor sleeves instead of the lower bracket s13 sleeves? Just get them directly from stance or do i have to order from some dealer? Im still deciding from going the megan racing setup or this stance setup. With megan coils all i have to do is get the upper camber weldable plates because the bottom threaded tube brackets is steel and can be welded based on looking at other threads. This would only cost me about 850 new for coils and plus how ever much zcc would sell me just the camber plates, whereas the stance setup i would be spending 1250 or so based on the pricing on page 2 of this thread for new coils with weldable threaded tubes and plus how ever much upper camber plates would cost(not sure where to get these that fit stance). I can weld so that wont cost me any money and my brother powder coats so getting the parts coated after welding wont cost me anything either. So i guess it all comes down to price for me. But is the extra 400-500 or so in going the stance setup really worth it? Ill just be using my z as a street/daily car and maybe hit the track a few times a year. Keep in mind im also on a budget (still a college student) but do not mind spending the extra cash if its really worth it. Ill be making a detailed thread with lots of pictures for when i do this to help out others even though there is already a lot of threads about this.

New air dam installed.

User name is same as this account. I used to have a 240sx fastback with a sr20det but sold that about 2 years ago or so. Ever since then i hardly get on nismokc, but now im back on the forum a lot lurking around now that i have a 240z. Just bought mine a few weeks ago.

Dude you in oklahoma city too, i am too!! Like your build thread on nismokc. Keep up the good work!

Ok I got it figured out again, answered my own question. I tested my brothers pioneer head unit out and the am/fm stations are working so the antenna is good which means that the head unit that came with the z that i bought is crap. Its a cheap sony xplode radio, so cant expect it to be good quality anyways. Off to the store to look for something decent. Not going to spend a bunch right now, just want radio and usb/ipod hook up. Damn, i havent had this car for a month and its costing me money already!!!

Thanks guys, ill be sure to check on that harness later on. So i worked on the z some more today and everything is working, head unit works, all accessories. Only thing that isnt working is that my radio is not picking up on any fm and am stations. The connection for the main antenna wire is all connected. So i am stumped on why this is happening. could my antenna be bad or my radio?

Wow ok Rossman, i just found this link researching on google and it explains in details what you just told me. Although its for a jeep, same concept applies to the z. http://www.drbob.tqhosting.com/tech/ammeter.htm POWER OF RESEARCH!!

Hey thanks a lot for that advice. I just did some researching and read up on how dangerous the ammeter is. So ive been reading that some just connect the wr and w wires off the ammeter and connect them. Is that safe? Can i just do that for now until i can get my hands on a 280z fuel/volt gauge later on and wire that up. I found this from rejracer: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99528-240z-charging-system-upgrade/page__p__933113__hl__ammeter__fromsearch__1#entry933113 Very good write up, but i dont have time for that right now as far as putting in a volt gauge. The previous owner been driving the z for about 6 years, you think i really need to mess with this or go ahead and do it for safety purposes?

I worked on the z some more today and pretty much solved two of the wires, but still stuck on one of them which im going to ignore since everything works with out it. So what i thought was wire 34 is actually the illumination light for the stock radio. It ding donged on me that the wire color scheme for illumination is RL (red with blue stripe). Also forgot to look at the stock radio the previous owner gave me to check the wires on there, so that helped a lot. As for the blue 54 a/c power wire, i just put it back to stock and undid the mess the previous owner did. Red wire 55 is the one i am still unsure about. I got the radio working correctly after searching for the schematic diagram for it and found out that the previous owners or the owners before them were idiots and wired it in wrong. So i had to go back and put things back to stock and wire it in correctly. Feels good to get things working correctly and being able to resolve issues

I am putting a lot of effort in making this thread from taking pictures and trying to explain my self as best as possible, so please help me if you can, i am by no means a wiring specialist but im not an idiot when it comes to wiring something up, i do my research if i need help. First off i bought my 1972 240z a few weeks ago and what supposed to turned out to be a simple radio fix since the radio didnt work turned out to be a wiring job on the dash harness (i.e. figuring out what the previous owners did and going back to fix it). So ever since yesterday i printed off a blown up version of the wiring diagram and started to learn it. I fixed/learned most of the wiring and plugs they messed with but i can not figure out what the wires in the pictures i have posted below go to and how it was wired up originally (this is where i need help). So i am wanting to know based on this diagram how 34(L, blower power),55(R, blower power),54(L,a/c power) were connected before the previous owners hacked into it. I just dont understand why they would mess with those wires to install a radio. The wires i am talking about belong to the blower switch and blower motor harness. Here is a section of the schematic wiring diagram for the blower motor. So based on this, does wires 55 and 34 looking back on the first diagram i posted connect to each other by a 30A fuse? The owners had 55 wired into a frigette auto air conditioner knob, picture below. A/c doesnt work anymore and they removed some ac parts so i just removed this knob since it was pointless to have. Some pictures of the wiring: No sure where this belongs? could be wire 34? pics of the blower harness. So it seems they tap one of the radio harness wires into the a/c power 54 wire L(blue)which comes off the blower switch plug? The other wire from the radio harness seems to go a ignition source from the ignition switch maybe. The red 55 wire coming from the blower motor plug was what i talked about previously that they wired into the frigette knob and i do not know where that connects to originally either. Then there is the blue wire with factory connection plug connected to the red with blue strip(RL) wire that i found like that cut which i do not know where it goes, maybe it is 34? Just for reference the other wires from the radio harness connects to rear speakers that they wired in. When i refer to radio harness i am referring to the aftermarket harness not the original 3 wire radio harness. thanks, Brent

Love the car! Just a question, what front air dam is that and where did you buy it? also is it fiberglass, metal or polyurethane?

Crap man this is a sexy build. Just a few questions and favors to ask from you. First i noticed the engine brackets and mounts. Who made them? any more details on those you can offer me and possibly pictures. Second who made the surge tank and also could you get some close up pics of the welds. Just wondering how great they look. I ask because i weld and like to see. Thanks, Brent

Thanks, i sent them an email to see if they have any or could get me one.

Love your build and oil pan design. Just a question about the aluminum oil pan. What thickness did you use for the aluminum plating and what type of aluminum did you use?

Its worth a try on here, but here goes. In the market for an r33 rb26dett engine. I would like to have a front clip complete with everything. Let me know, Brent

Thanks for the help. Man that is the kind of finding i want to look for and for that price range, hehe, just so hard to come by and must be lucky. Yeah im not planning on keeping it stock either, planning on swapping the engine. As long as the body is as straight as i can find, thats all i really care about, not really on interior or miscellaneous stuff so much. The reason i am tyring to find cars near where i live is because i just cant see my self buying a car that i dont see in person, just seems kind of scary. Man i bet that day when you bought that car felt good! Very nice find.

Yea he does sound a little ignorant and may be hiding something. I am surprised on how fast i got a reply, and its not even a detailed description. Didnt say why the front is painted black, or at least the right light body part, interior pieces missing. no pictures of the rocker panels, no pictures underneath the car, just plain out no description. Maybe i will give another respond to this person

just got a email back from this person, this is what was said: im trying to buy a newer car ( nissan350z) i got it from a guy that had it for 6 months theres alot of paperwork on it and have not looked into how many owners its not important to me whats important on a classic to me is that is drivable and rust free u cant find a rust free car at this price range so its to be expected miles are not even considered anymore because theres no way to keep track that far back etc etc car only needs minor things but im sure it will make it to ok if u put tires on it just not good to drive that far if i was to keep i would change tires first then bushings that cost 20 bucks then shocks then figure out whats up with ac then ones all that is done start the paint so car wont need much these pictures were taken from a phone. Rust Free? i dont like it when people say that.

hehe, nah i dont think this will. I found another z and this one looks pretty good. I sent the seller an email just now so waiting on a response. http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1430232148.html Its worth a try, but does anyone live near this place, if so, would you mind going to take a look for me, maybe even taken some pictures of the overall car, interior, engine bay, bad areas, etc... if so, you can contact me on here or pm me on here, or email me: djepy0n@hotmail.com