disepyon

Just wanted to say thank you so much. I am going with the 8.8" diff for my ls1 swap. I went ahead and bought the cobra lsd (posi) 31 spline with 3.73 gearing. I already bought the whole diff from a local u pull and pay salvage yard off a lincoln mark 8 for like 80 bucks. what a b**ch to remove if you didnt bring the right tools and doing it by your self (worth it though). The housing cover is the same as what you have with the two ears up front but the rear cover is the kind with 2 bolt holes in the middle of the cover. Any ways the main thing i want to let everyone know is i wanted to adapt the 8.8" to the AZC mustache bar i just bought in a clean and structural manner. While browsing the web i found this by accident. This is what exactly i have been looking for. Something to allow me to make my own rear cover. All i have to do is add mounting points and a fill,drain and vent plugs. Since i dont have access to a machine to cut metal plating into any shape you want (in this case a flange) this works out perfectly and isnt that bad on price. Got to be able to weld or this may not work for some of you unless you take it to a shop. Made by Blue Torch. You can even buy just the flange if you wanted to on their site. Just thought id share this for anyone else out there wanting to do a 8.8" diff swap.

These NOS fairlady mirrors just came in the mail yesterday. Cant say how well they allow you to see on the side of the car/blind spot. Wont be installed for awhile as my car isnt running right now.

Looks good, what alternator bracket you using? Also on your fuel rail, cant you just rotate the fuel rail so you dont have to run all that fuel line? I believe others done that.

Thanks for the replies, makes me feel a lot better knowing its not just me. Yeah i also beefed up some grounds but still doesnt help.

So i did this mod awhile back and just wondering if any of you guys z does what mine does. So even after doing this mod, the rpms/idle on my 240z still drop slightly. I also have dual electric fans and it drops the idle slightly which is understandable, occurs on most cars with similar fans, but the headlight idle drop bothers me a bit. Just wondering if its just me or if others have the same problem and what you did to fix it if possible on our cars still running the original headlights. Also i forgot to metion i did the relay mod aswell for the interior/rear/side marker lights too. One more thing to say, i did upgrade the alternator to the 280z and i have an optima battery.

Alright im back with more updates. Its time i get serious with the ls1 part of this project. Im at the point of just wanting to get this done. Its time i stop putting this off. Bought me a bunch of crap: -PRC CNC stage 1 ls6 heads with PAC 1218 Beehive Valve Springs -TSP 228R camshaft, LSA 114 -Chromoly harden push rods -Basic head and camshaft bolt and gasket kit (cometic timing cover gasket with front seal, cometic water pump gasket, multi-layer steel head gaskets, head bolts, balancer pulley bolt) -LS2 timing chain -TSP LS6 ported oil pump with o ring -Clevite rod and main bearings (for stock crank application) -LS7 lifters -LS2 trays -Powerbond 25% UD Balancer Pulley, chromoly reusable balancer bolt, AC belt -OEM take off from brand new engine water pump includes 04+ thermostat with water neck Also got my new Femi NG120XL portable band saw, thing is awesome. Now I want to get me a new CK flex Loc Tig torch with new dual gauge regulator and gas lenses. But no money for that right now, but soon hopefully. Lazy husky pups. Not sure how they sleep like that. Currently im waiting for my Monster stage 3 clutch, 18lb flywheel, and hydraulic throw out bearing to come in the mail. Pics when they get here.

Looks good. What did you construct it out of, mild steel or chromoly? Figure out what to do for axles using the 8.8 diff?

Please keep up the detials with the 8.8 diff swap with the axles. I want to do this for my z and i want as much info as possible. Subscribed!

I got stance s13 super sport + coilovers, havent installed them yet so cant comment on how they feel. For the front i am just going to swap out the knuckles and upgrade the brakes to brembos then weld in the camber plates. For the rears i will do what everyone else does, weld in the tube and maybe camber plates as well. I think for the strut i will just weld me some tabs to allow for a strut bar to be bolted. Curious to see what others have done.

Looking good. Any chance you could post up some pics of your fuel setup in more detail for me? would really appreciate it.

When I bought the car. This is the way it looks now.

Not LS1 related. Got my Stance super sport + coils in today. I dont need these now, but could not pass up the good deal from a vendor on zilvia. All i need now is the weldable kit from zcc http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93255/pd2134436/STANCE__COILOVER_SUSPENSION_KIT_240Z_260Z_280Z#IMAGES Still debating if i want to convert the rear coils to upper camber adjustment like the fronts.

I think its just a different delivery driver than the usual lady. She is good about it. But yeah i do agree with you about Fedex being better. I just dont understand why the person did that. You go through all that work to move a 145lb transmission up my steep driveway, why not just walk 6-8 seconds (depending how tired you are) to the door while your up there and ring the door bell?

Alright I figure i should update this. I havent really done much but drive it, just a few things here and there such as made my own headlight, turn signal, and accessory light harnesses mod. Changed out a few components in the front suspension. Worked on the motor and carbs some more to get it running right. Runs good now, i am getting about 20 to 22 mpg. Only thing that annoys me while driving is the fan clutch, so loud when its engaged, just to damn hot out during the summer but it keeps the temps down. Some recent pics of the car. Well from here on out, its time to pay more attention to the ls1 part. I just got my t56 magnum trans and ls bell housing today. Thanks UPS for leaving this next to my garage where everyone can see and not alert anyone who was at home. Put it on a roller, makes life easier when moving it. Ls bell housing. Thats it for now, ive been super lazy lately.

Can anyone help me guess what tire size this guy has on his RB R? and what color wheels are they? the Hyper black? or Silver? I want my wheels to have lots of meat on them like this guy has, i dont want that stretch look.

What the hell!!! your telling me that nobody has royal silver in stock? Damn it, Just when i wanted to order me a set, they do not have the color i want.

I thought about getting the McKinney Megan coilover kit as well, but i decided when its time for me i will piece together a kit to put stance coils on instead. There is a thread in the group buy or vender section (I cant remember) that makes the weldable part for stance coils. Stance also sells them too, not sure who is cheaper though. I am still trying to figure out what to do about the plates to be welded on the towers of the car, not sure if the megan weldable plates or TTT plates work with stance coils.

Update!! I am proud to say that the new rocker arm and guide replacement is a success! No ticking/knocking anymore. Engine runs and sounds smooth and sexy. Pictures of the new rocker arm and guide: Sorry i do not have any pictures of it installed. I actually brought my camera out to the garage but was so excited and anxious that i completely forgot about pictures. It was tough getting the new rocker arm on. Had to really depress the spring just to barely slide the arm in.

Took the exhaust and intake rocker arms off for piston 1. I do not know how to tell the difference between a good and bad rocker arm or lash pad. Hoping someone here could enlighten me. Do the springs and keys look correctly seated? The red arrow points to the rocker arm for the exhaust that is causing the clicking noise (what i believe, wont know for certain unless i make the clearance smaller, run the engine and hear if the noise is gone). So my plan is to readjust all valve clearances on cold. put everything back on and run the motor. If noise still persist the i will make the clearance between the rocker arm and cam lob for the exhaust valve for piston 1 smaller. Put everything back together and run the motor just to see if the noise is gone. If so, then i may just buy a new rocker arm and lash pad from the z store for $42.13. Is it ok to just replace one rocker arm?

The largest size gauge that fits right now with the engine completely cold is .008inch instead of the .010 inch gauge. .010 fits in between the other exhaust rocker arm and cam lobs.

I believe I found the Cause of the symptom. The rocker arm for exhaust valve to cylinder one is very loose. Keep in mind that this is after ive adjusted and checked like 6 times and its still loose. Any ideas on why its so loose? Ive checked all the other arms for the other valves and they are not this loose and does not make a clicking sound like this. Could it be a worn shim or something? My terminology may not be right so correct me if i am using wrong terms to describe. Here is a video i made: For some reason i cant get the video to embed, so here is the link.

Well i thought i should update this. Ive taken the exhaust manifold to the machine shop to get resurfaced and put a new gasket on. I still get that loud ticking noise. Its seems to get louder when the car is warmed up. I rechecked the valve clearance again according to the link I posted up in one of my posts. I just dont understand what it could be. Edit: Forgot to mention that the snapped stud I talked about, I managed to get it out, so now I am able to use a bolt.

A question about your camber plates you welded in for your coilovers. Why did you use the stock mounting plate with the four bolts? was it to lower the adjustment damper knob so the hood clears it?

Alright folks, I stopped being a lazy azz and took the 20 minutes or so taking the intake/carb assembly off to check for exhaust leaks. Its kind of strange, the leak is on the opposite side of the exhaust runner from the missing stud and nut. You would think it would be on that side but it occurred on the side with the stud and nut. However i did notice this nut was a bit loose. So I think over time it slowly backed out and thus led to the leak. Looks like next time ill double on the nuts. I cant believe it sealed on the side with the missing stud and nut. By the way this is for exhaust runner 1. Gasket on the head. Gasket off the head. Gasket by itself, front side. Gasket by itself, back side. Well i will be ordering a new gasket and double up on the nuts on that one stud. Hopefully this will fix the noise ive been getting. I would like to extract that snapped stud but i had no luck in the past and pretty sure I wont be getting it out now unless I bring the head into the machine shop.

Thanks for the reply fellows. I drove my car for about 5 to 6 miles, some what got on the gas to go fast to get the engine super hot. Right after that I checked the valve clearance and made the adjustments needed. Everything looks fine under the cover. Again the car runs strong and smooth. According to the stock oil pressure gauge it reads good. The noise is a solid one loud click. As i raise the rpms the noise gets faster. How would I go about checking the gasket without pulling the carbs and exhaust manifold off? I tried to feel for leaks and didnt feel any air blow out. Not sure if this helps but I tapped on the exhaust number 1 runner and it sounds exactly like the noise i hear. I just dont under stand these cars, you fix something and a new problem arises, its a never ending battle. If i can get this noise figured out then im solid, I can then finally enjoy driving the car.