240zip

Has anyone mounted their MSD unit inside the car instead of inside the engine compartment? I recall that the instructions (which I don't have anymore) appear to recommend an engine install. I think as long as I use larger wires, running a longer length of wire shouldn't be an issue. I'm just curious if anyone has any pictures of an internal mount. I just think it would be cleaner.

Here are some earlier pictures: http://www.zcar.com/forums/885670/open-heart-surgery-my-240z-chassis-work-continues But I should start a log ...

Attached are some pictures of a 240Z we're working on. All new suspension components. Illumina adjustable struts, AZC linear rate springs, ST sway bar, Baddog mod for sway bar, black items are powdercoated.

Does anyone have a set of Arizona Z Car's HD 200lbs linear rate springs lying around they'd like to sell? They keep the stock ride height on a 240Z.

Oh ... wrong on the price ... $260 for the pair + shipping ... YIKES!

It's a U-piece shaped metal bracket with rubber inserted ... it's only attached (the rubber) on the bottom so it really flexes. This JDM mount looks like they added urethane and made it attached on 3 sides instead of just the bottom. They claim it's 50% stiffer than stock, but it's $175 ... and I can get the materials for a DIY approach for about $20.

I know there are JDM motor mounts and transmission mounts that are stiffer than stock. I've seen DIY approaches to drilling out the stock rubber and replacing it with urethane (80A liquid urethane). Has anyone done this? Here's an example: http://elantragtclub.tripod.com/elantra/id557.html I could see doing the same thing to the motor mounts and transmission mounts for my 240Z. Any comments on this approach? The stock rubber mounts seem very soft.

On the bolts ... as stated earlier the existing bolts need to be reused and they're a pain to remove. Mine were seized up rather well. I soaked them with releasing oil and then I found heating the original flange and then adding a nut to the bolt (not all the way in) and then gently tapping with a brass hammer worked best. I managed to get 10 good ones (out of 12). I then glass beaded them and buffed them to polish them up.

I'll likely just spray it with something called Eezox. http://www.eezox.com/ I use it on my guns. Thanks again for creating a great product.

Mine came today via FedEx ground. As the other posts have already stated they are beautiful. On the preparation of the '05 STi R180 unit. It has already been discussed that the mounting bolts on the rear cover are a bit long. Has anyone used the 240Z R180 cover to see if it's a direct replacement for the STi? I happen to have a spare cover and gasket, so I was curious. On the front STi R180 flange, I suspect you'll need to swap that with the 240Z R180 flange. It seems to work with my 280ZXT driveshaft, but the pattern isn't right for the 240Z ones. Is any rust prevention needed? I didn't know if the metal used had any chrome added to the alloy or not.

Man ... I hate to burst anyone's bubble on this thread, but the complete STi LSD's are going for $350 to $500 without the CV shafts. Your LSD unit appears to look like new, so that's nice. I know people who've got them off eBay for under $300, but the going rate seems to be in the $350 to $400 range. I agree people are grabbing them up and thus prices will increase. I got a 3.90 gearing R180 myself.

The rear valence is often painted a satin black, but it's really more like a gun metal gray with some fine metal flake in it. Does anyone have a formula (or code) for BASF or PPG for this color?

Was wondering if anyone used the Glasurit 55 line in painting their Z's. They (Glasurit) have a classic line and a matching Datsun Orange for the 240Z.

I purchased a door panel recovering kit from eBay a few years back. It's was a perfect pattern match and had that foil covered plastic strip. The fuzzy and other parts were still available. I then found a pair of used door panels where the cardboard was decent and had an upholstry shop do the job. Looks new. I wish I had purchased a bunch of them from him. (Gira on eBay). It was around $100 for the pair. He even included the dog legs pieces for the interior.

voted

Just to confirm ... they're identical across R160's, R180's and R200's?

I picked up a nice R180 from a STi with 3.90 on eBay in anticipation of this product being available. Cost was under $300. It did not included the output shafts which seemed to make it undesirable for people trying to do a STi to WRX swap. There seem to be plently of these available in the $300 to $400 range. I plan to use the R180 with the 3.9 with a 280ZX 5 speed transmission. Based on the transmission calculator it should be acceptable with my tires. http://webspace.webring.com/people/cz/z_design_studio/ I'm glad to hear the stock R180 cover works as the R180 from the STi's bolts are a tad long. This should make a nice alternative to the hard-to-find R200's from the 300ZX turbos.

John. From this picture ... it seems as if you took the differential flange from the stock 240Z R180 and placed it on to the STi R180 LSD unit with your modified shafts. This would seem to indicate you can use the stock driveshaft provided you have an existing R180 flange to swap over to the STi unit. Is this correct? Earlier in the thread you talked about a custom drive shaft being made. The rear cover shows the mustache bar mounting bolts are longer on the STi unit. Did you swap the differential covers or is this not necessary? They seem nearly identical aside from the bolt length. I got my STi 3.9 LSD differential today ... so I am anxiously awaiting.

I have a 225mm one that was machined then balanced. There were various profiles from different people who did this ... each claiming their profile was superior. Top End Performance offers this service for $160 http://www.racetep.com/flywheel.html

PM Sent ... check your messages

The 'extra code' reference is to the firmware version - correct?

After much research, I've decided to go the MegaSquirt route with my 240Z turbo swap. If possible, I'd like to use as much of the stock 280ZX Turbo components as possible initially. I've compiled a list of what I need. MegaSquirt Wiring Bundle - 12' Long [LG-WireBund] - $40 MegaSquirt-I or II Relay Cable [MSRelayCable] - $70 MegaSquirt-II Engine Management System w/PCB3 - UnAssembled Kit [MS230-K] - $247 MegaSquirt Relay Board - UnAssembled Kit [MSRelay-K] - $64 MegaSquirt Stimulator v2.2 - UnAssembled Kit [MSStim22-K] - $45 USB to Serial Adapter - Works with MegaTune! [uSB-2920] - $20 MegaSquirt Stimulator / DIYPNP Power Supply [stimPower] - $7.50 This is what I've already assembled: - 280Z Tach - Complete 280ZX Turbo motor with ECU, AFM, and all sensors / wiring harness intact. - Intercooler / pipes - Downpipe - T3/04E hybrid turbo - Fuel pump - Fuel pressure regulator - MSD 6A What am I missing? - What about the O2 sensor items? It seems having a wide-band 02 sensor is the way to go. Which model do people recommend? - Do people recommend just going with the generic GM temp sensors in lieu of the stock sensors? I was told there is a SW fix to recalibrate, but it seems using GM units is easiest. - In terms of injectors, I know the stock ones are limiting - I'm looking at the Ford SVT's as an upgrade. I'd like to get the swap done and working prior to making a ton of mods. Is there anything special I need to use the stock injectors (i.e. adaptive resistors)? - In terms of tuning SW, is anyone using Tuner Studio? I just saw screenshots of Megatune and Tuner Studio and the later seemed more polished visually.

I need the 280ZX Turbo T5 (Borg Warner) Transmission. The drive shaft, differential flange, slave cylinder, and flywheel are a plus. Shipping would be to 80542. I can pick-up at any terminal / hub in the Denver area.

I came across a 260z with 350 swap. At first I was like WOW ... Then I looked closer ... under that Macco $199 special there's a ton of issues Interior was shot. Seems like water poured into this car. paint job was one of the worst I've seen with bondo and pot riveted panels that were on the verge of falling off the body. but the engine bay showed promise looks like home-built mounts and the wiring inside was dubious .. but I've seen worse. anyway ... I figured a rebuilt 350 engine with the swap pieces was worth about $1,500 to $2,000. I have a 240Z that's worth dropping it into. any thoughts? The transmission was a TH350.