denny411

not much of a sleeper,huh...?

The problem here is that you have the bolts removed .so you will need a new hesd gasket. This means if you haven`t already done so,the head will need to be removed.It may sound extreme,but if I were in your position I would just throw another engine in and be done with it.you`ll save the cost of the gasket set/the work of cleaning and reinstalling head,and the cost and hassle of the helicoil.Besides I think it`s easier to change the whole engine vs the head.their should be plenty of l6`s around since the body usually goes before the engine there should be some post swap surplus floating around on this site somewhere.

I`m betting it`s a fuel sending unit,and the questions were related reconecting the wires and resealing the tank after replacement

I`m not sure exactly where you`re talking about, but I`m positive that anything that has to do with securing the strut tower should not be riveted. most likely what you`re seeing are spot welds,most auto body supply stores will carry spot weld cutters that you`ll use to drill out the spot welds.then use a wire welder (for best results) to reattach your repair panels.I hope this helps

OtakuZ I`m sorry if it sounds like we`ve been mocking you,and I expected you to respond in kind. Obviously we have misunderstood your dilema,And I personally would like to help you out with any experience I may have had. I`ve not seen you post since this one and wanted to be sure that we/I didn`t scare off a fellow Z`er with our light hearted comments

My house is less than a half mile from his parents house,and my moms boyfriend has been a close friend of their family for 50+ years

Oh Yea...It kicks ass alright.I garrantee you`ll be pleased Just remember to keep the cap on whenever your not using it,It will cure literally in minutes.The only trouble I`ve ever had with it is if I left a little on the theads when I put the cap on,it reacts w/ the air and I would have to use an exacto knife to clean out the tip of the tube Good Luck

I also have used the Hylomar ,it works good for intake although I haven`t personaly seen it after a couple years. The best stuff I have ever used can be gotten at a GM dealership(i can`t recall the exact name) but it is the same black RTV that the factory uses on the oil pans and valve covers in place of gaskets.The label on the tube is aqua green and the the tube is white, sorry I couldn`t be more specific.With this stuff you wouldn`t have to wait to run the engine It will cure completely long before you have the engine reassembled.If you get it on your fingers you will feel it get hot as it cures (similar to body filler)also get it off of your hand immediatly because once it cures the only thing you can do is wait.I had to go to a wedding with this stuff in all the creases of my fingers. I hope this helps you

Mike,I have a complete set of silvolite hyperutectic pistons, they are still in the 383 on 5.7 rods(this engine has never been run) I`m interested in selling them w/o the rods, they have been weight matched.The only problem is that they are in Oh, and I`m in Al, right now.food for thought anyway.If you`re not interested maybe someone else here would be.Oh yea...they are 10.5;1 w/ 64cc chambers.it will probably be more than a month or so before I can have them out and ready to ship.I`m not sure exactly when I`ll get back there next.

I suppose I could tame down the engines themselves and make up the difference w/ nitrous.A big block would be nice but the fabrication of the body would be extensive. I really didn`t wan`t to get that involved in body modifications.if I tone down the 383 to around 550hp that would be a little more reliable.I already have the block w/steel caps-main studs- Je rods-weisco pistons-head studs and a 4340 steel crank.That should be a solid foundation I just need a great set of heads and I should be in the ballpark. The 355 is a zz3 4 bolt main block w/ a Gm performance steel crank w/ one piece rear main seal.w/ weisco pistons and summit 6.00 stage II rods.In my opinion another stout foundation.I guess anyway you look at it any thing over 450hp is still kickin a$$ in a 240 or 280.Thanks much for the input

I thought it was somthing my two year old leaves in my cup when he sneaks a drink

Thanks grummpy ,Back to the drawing board.I`m looking to get 500+hp and similar torque from the 355,and as close to 600hp/torque as possible from the 383.I know it won`t be cheap or easy, but I`ve got plenty of time for the 383.the 355 will go into the 77z that I have now, and I`ll save the 383 for a 240 project down the road(max hp/wgt ratio)

springs are 280#@ seat/580# open.O-yeah I was planning on checking piston to valve clearance,I have a close friend who trashed his 460 after 5 runs.valve hit a piston and thats all she wrote The valve head broke off and went through the cylynder wall. he ended up trashing one head,the block and two pistons.(he was running a .690 lift roller cam)

What do you think I could expect from the 383 if I used the pro 1 heads and the 1;6 rockers on both valves(or would you still suggest the 1;6 int/1;5 exh)? I talked to a guy about a year ago in indiana that builds circle track engines,He stated that on his flow bench he had been able to flow dartII`s out to produce 525 hp from a 355 w/11;1 comp .670 total lift.I can`t recall duration or lobe separation.At that time he said that was the best you could get from those heads and that any lift over .670 was wasted.I had planned on having this guy do my head/dyno work. He has two engine dyno`s and one chassis dyno.Do these numbers sound reasonable or do you think this guy was exagerating to get some business? What kind of $$$ will I have in the Pro1`s?

Thanks for the input,I`m gonna have to rethink my cam choices.These engines are being assembled mostly w/ parts that I have gotten from people who never finished their projects or just needed the money.Specifically, the cams were not chosen according to my plans for either of the engines.I guess I`ll need to do some more research to find cams that will maximize torque and horsepower alike,for both engines.---------THE SEARCH GOES ON

ethylene glycol is different from plain water,it will attack rod and main bearings,the best way to insure minimal contamination is to drain the coolant from the block by removing the plugs on both sides of the block (close to the oil pan rail) then remove the radiator cap.this will drain almost all of the coolant from the engine and most importantly,the heads I would just use one of the common engine flush additives and then change the oil.It shouldn`t be a problem.

what kind of horsepower/torque should I expect from these engines? does anyone have recomendations on carb/intake combinations for these engines? I`ve got a victor jr for one of them. Thanks in advance

Heres my dilema; I`m building two engines. One is a 383 sbc w/11:1 weisco pistons 5.7 eagle rods,dart sportsmanII heads w/200cc runners and 64cc chambers 2.02 int 1.65 exh (will be flow benched)w/1.5 ratio crane full roller rocker arms, comp roller cam w/ .631 int .631 exh, dur@.050 268, lobe separation 109 degrees-----or w/ 1.6 harland sharp roller rockers the gross lift would go up to .673 all else stays the same.The question is...Would the extra lift from the 1.6 help at all or would it be overkill. The other engine is a 355 sbc w/ 11:1 weisco`s 6 in.summit stagr II rods, dartII heads w/200cc runners /64cc chambers 2.02`s and1.60`s, will also be ported the cam is Comp cams 305H-10 .525 int/.525 exh Dur,is 253@ .050 lobe separation is 110 degrees. Which engine would benfit the most from the added lift of the 1.6 ratio rocker arms

I personaly think a (round) porthole would be too much of a contrast with the sleak look of the Z.(maybe too close to the door also) Just my opinion,I could be way off.

I`ve got my fingers crossed

The main caps absolutely must be in there proper position(or the engine will die an early death due to bearing failure) most caps have some sort of marking on them although they may be very faint.look very closely to make sure.If there are no markings then you will have to have the block line bored SORRY but thats the breaks

You`ll need to put a rush on the project.I have a 2 yr old and time for wrenching has been at a premium since he was born. But I wouldn`t change a thing CONGRATS

Not yet,but I`m going too.I also intend on using the kit to make my own headers.I want to run them through the fender wells.unless someone know where to buy some.

you have a fuel starvation problem ie.bad accelerator pump.are the vacume secondairies open when it bogs? It also could be a plugged fuel passage.or posssibly just a fuel filter.the pump is easy to change.but I`d do the filter first,it`s easiest.you could also check your fuel volume(could be a weak pump)Sometimes you can clear a plugged passage by reving the engine and while holding the throttle open w/ one hand, cover the choke horn w/ the other.Hold it there until the engine almost dies then remove it while still holding the throttle open. This will use manifold vacume to pull fuel through the primary fuel passages.If it`s a minor blockage this will usually clear it out

Did ya make it to the track? how`d they hold up? Good/Bad/Better than the others?