denny411

I`ve got one question about the mitsubishi starion. What differential do they use in that and the conquest? could it be an r200? Either way, is it a durable diff? and how much hp/tq can they handle? also how strong are the halfshafts and stub axles? Ok, five questions

that quad 4 would be one heck of an engine for an early mg midget. with a 6 speed and a turbo in a 1900 lb car,you could scream

...With his a$$ sticking out of the ground so he can be whipped some more

more money than brains

I`m not so sure that the full length of the rails is absolutely necessary for the structural integrity of the car. Having dismantled the rocker panels,I believe the torque boxes and rocker panels are responsible for any streghth in the unibody. I think that the rail that extends under the seat is to keep the floor from flexing under the weight of the passenger and driver. IMO the installation of anything thicker than the stock rail to replace them, if not fully conected to the rear as a sub frame connector is overkill. Unless your rails are rusty,If your not going to connect to the rear I wouldn`t bother with replacement....But I could be wrong.It`s happened before but,not very often(LOL)

To be fair,I think that poser racers have been around for quite a long time. Long before imports were considered anything but puddle jumpers,there were guys with cavaliers,sunbirds and berlinetta camaro`s to name just a couple popular ones,with monza exhaust and aluminium mags who thought they had a race car. And even before that there were guys with cutlass supremes,malibu`s and camaro`s with air shocks fat rear tires and cherry bombs who thought they had the badest car around. That said, Never in my life have I seen the arrogance that the ricer croud shows. Maybe it`s because they have spent so much money on their cars that they think,It has to be fast. Or maybe they just haven`t been spanked quite hard enough yet Well rest assured I will not rest until every one of them that pulls up next to me at a red light gets the a$$ beatin of their life. I promise

Cool deal That reminds me of a garage sale I went to a couple years ago. I wasn`t going to stop because it looked like all little girls clothes.My wife said to stop because she wanted to look,It`s a good thing we did. I found a transmission scissor jack for 10 bucks. It had never even been used,in the catalogs they are about 80.00 +shipping.

Whenever possible I try to buy my tools from private individuals. It`s a good way to beat sales tax and I can haggle with them over price. It`s ammazing how many people buy things that they don`t really need or can`t afford.Then to make matters worse, they try to cut their loses buy selling stuff for whatever they can get out of it. The guy that I got the press from also has a fresh air supply system complete with the air pump. It supposedly sold new for 700 or 800 bucks but I haven`t had a chance to confirm it.It has never been used and he wants 300 for it.Does anyone know if that`s adeal or not? If it is,I`ll pick it up after I get back from Ohio next month,Maybe he`ll come down on his price some more by then

Go for it. the bigger the better

Well I`ve just added a new tool to the arsenal, I just picked up a 30 ton hydraulic press. It was only used one time it doesn`t even have a scratch on it. I`ve wanted one for years but was always too cheap to fork out the 600-800 that everyone wanted and, my patience finally paid off, 200.00 bucks

I found this guys site when trying to find info on the conquest/starion differential. I went to the mitsubishi dealer yesterday and they couldn`t tell me anything about it. I was up until 3am trying to find info on it, No Luck I`m going to assume that it must be relatively stout. These guys are running 18 psi boost and I have yet to see any differential upgrades listed. The only thing I found was a service bulliten on the pinion bearing in the pre 84`s but was supposed to be fixed after that. My concern is finding a rebuild kit for the LSD,I still don`t know what type of diff it is.I do know that some came with a locker also. Other than that your guess is as good as mine but,I`ll keep lookin

Automotive Torque Converters,Inc. 2713 E.Meighan blvd Gadsden,Al 35903 ph# 866 492 6061 They are just south of town off of 431 on the right. I`m not sure if they have the new catalogs for t/c components yet.When I talked to them last week they were waiting on some more liturature

I would maybe use one of the intake bolts at the front,or if the thermostat housing unbolts. you could use one of the bolts that goes directly into the head on the drivers side and on the pass side use the factory hook. It sounds good anyway

I`ll check with the guy today and see what he wants for it and I`ll let you know tonight

Check out this link http://srd.yahoo.com/goo/conquest+posi/6/T=1019537872/F=6b70a837a15dc39d466bc343add0fd2c/*http://members.aol.com/danmas/widetr6.htm This guy has taken the word hybrid to the extreme

Do any of you turbo guys know much about the dodge conquest? or the mitsubishi starion? I`m looking into the rear diff from one to adapt to the Z. I thought in the turbo circle someone might know what type of diff it is and if it is very durable. Also has anyone considered using the intercooler from one of these cars? I might have access to one if someone is interested.

As long as all of the intakes are the same,as well as the exhaust you won`t have a problem. Now if you had two different brands or styles of intake valves it could cause a difference in air flow.otherwise I wouldn`t worry about. In short...I`d run em

If you are suggesting using the valve cover bolts to lift the engine ,I wouldn`t recomend it. they are way too small to safely support the engine alone. And with the tranny still hooked it would be even more dangerous. The tilter will put a side load on the bolts making it more likely to snap them. I would hook the rear to the top bellhousing bolts and,somehow hook the front to some of the brackets on the front of the engine somwhere. Don`t get into too big of a hurry. Just take your time and be safe. Make sure that everything is solid and secure."It`s just a car,it`s not worth it to rush and risk getting hurt

Topless: Where exactly in the boondocks of ohio are you? After I get back to Ohio for good,I plan on having a HybridZ get together at my house in Wapakoneta. It will be sometime during the summer of 2003.

Any news yet on the phantom grip?

This link is supposed to have info available on kits to put a v8 into the zx as well as the early z. It`s not for me but may have some usefull info. http://www.jcijag.com/zcar/zcar.htm

lots of info on su`s here. click on zcar http://www.ztherapy.com/

No problem I should talk to him sometime this week and,will get more specifics on the 700 and 200

While driving around this afternoon, I stopped at a place that rebuilds Tourque convertors. The guys there were pretty friendly and informative.I got to tour their shop and see how T/C`s work,very interesting to say the least. It`s amazing how simple they really are. Anyway the guy told me that he will beat anyones price on all different rpm stall convertors including lockups. He is currently in the negotiation process with a new supplier of furnace brazed rotors,stators and also other hardened and high performance components. He told me that anyone who buys a convertor from him will get one free adjustment,which means if your not happy with the stall speed that you`ve chosen . you can ship it back to him and he will disassemble it change the turbin and adjust the stator blades(which controls the stall)reassemble and rebalance it. In the next few months they are expanding into rebuilding cv shafts,and will be able to give deals on those also. When I mentioned that I might be using a 700r4 in the Z, One of his tech`s told me that any 700r4 can be made to lock up manually(without electric) He said if you cut all the wires,remove the lockup solenoid and install a check ball under it the t/c will automatically lockup when you hit o/d and the fluid pressure hits 50 psi. He didn`t say exactly what diameter but I`ll post when I talk to him again. That means that there is no nead for elec relays, wires,brake switches or toggle switches. You learn somthing new everyday At least I did, To some of you this may have been common knowledge ,but it`s news to me. As soon as I get a price list I will post it. He said the more we buy the better deals he can make. He said that he can build any grade of stall t/c from standard duty all the way up to the top of the line with all the goodies

I stopped at a local Rod shop here in anniston and talked to the guys about where to get cars and body panels blasted. They told me about a place in gadsden that does soda blasting. It`s supposed to take off paint body filler and undercoating but won`t hurt chrome glass or trim. They showed me a car that they had done a few weeks ago. It was a completely assembled car except that it had no paint on it. They charge about 450. to do the entire car inside and out, top and bottom. I`m gonna take some chevelle stuff to them