essdeezee

I'm sure that Dan will chime in here, but.... If you read the entire thread, he mentions this, as well as a solution using another SPDT relay to make sure you have a setup in which the fan will not receive power for both high and low. I successfully used the setup Dan posted for a 2 spd. deal out of a Mercury Villager. It works well. Edit: Regardless of earlier posting, that schematic is damn beautiful. Very nice work. Not that the directions are terrible, but Hayden should buy that from you.

I decided to go with the ztherapy rebuild kit. I would definitely recommend it. High quality everything and the video walks you through it. It's a good introduction to the the SU carbs, if you've never been inside them. It's also hard to mess up, considering the thoroughness of the video.

In my bone stock ef civic hatch, I get pulled over on a regular basis: once every 2-3 weeks. I drive that car gently. For all the stops, no tickets have ever stuck. In my 240z, I drive fast. I just get head shakes or finger waggles from cops. go figure. Last month, I pulled up behind a cop while driving my stock '93 toyota pu. A block later, he changes lanes, gets behind me, and lights me up. After the whole license and registration bit, I ask why he pulled me over. He claimed that I had my high beams when he was in front of me. I didn't. When I told him that, he decided to turn my headlights on for me. "Well officer, when I push this little stalk forward, that blue headlight icon lights up. That means my brights weren't on before." A half-hour later, after two more squad cars show up, another officer walks up to my window. "What did you do to piss off the sarge?" I get lots of experience with cops. Depending on which side of the situation you're on, their attitudes are all over the place. Probably 50% are jerks, 20% are neutral/just doing their jobs, and the other 30% are nice guys who listen to reason. Not that I don't understand the jerk cops, I'm sure that dealing with the seedy underbelly of life on a daily basis brings out the worst in people.

Yeah josh, those cysts suck. I had one, 2" track from source to opening. About 3/8" deep, maybe more (never got to measure myself, ya dig?). Mine had to be lanced and deep cleaned for about a week (not fun). But I heal up fast. If it's a recurring problem for you, you might want to get it taken care of. You wouldn't want to end up with a much nastier (and probably more expensive) infection from leaving it alone.

8. Fixing wanton destruction in engine bay and undercarriage after stick welded scrap iron mounts for engine and tranny break...

I second/third/fifth/whatever the idea for the rear sill. Sure would beat the mess I'm about to get into trying to repair mine. And since I only have ever only worked on one Z (my 71), are those pieces the same for the whole s30 run?

This post is awesome, especially because I am about to embark on a project using almost exactly the same hardware. About your coilovers... What resources did you use to determine spring rate and shock type/valving? Also, what did you end up paying (if you don't mind me asking) for your suspension and steering bits?

UCHS, not UNI. Uni is the catholic school associated with USD over on Linda Vista Road. I went to UCHS, people always thought I was talking about Uni, and thought I came from money. As if... hehe.

Thanks for the offer Chris, but all I really want from the 240sx are the suspension, rear end, and steering bits. A nice running car really isn't quite what I'm looking for.

Hi guys, Its not a Z, but I know I'll get good technical answers here. If this is a problem, mods: delete away. I wont cry... too much. I'm in the planning stages of a locost based on the s14 suspension, rear end, and steering wrapped around an lsx/t56. I'm looking at the s14 for the hubs/brake/wheel options. Looking to purchase them as whole assemblies for ease of mockup/installation. What would prices for the 240sx pieces look like? Am I better off looking for a donor s13 and upgrading hubs later? Any thoughts would be welcome!

Hi guys, In the planning stages of a locost based on the s14 suspension, rear end, and steering wrapped around an lsx/t56. I'm looking at the s14 for the hubs/brake/wheel options. Looking to purchase them as whole assemblies for ease of mockup/installation. What would prices for the 240sx pieces look like? Am I better off looking for a donor s13 and upgrading hubs later? Any thoughts would be welcome!

I don't think we have any overcrossings around here. We do have an undercrossing the next canyon north of 52 though. Too bad to hear about those dead. However, you put enough suburban development near a airfield and these things happen. Why couldn't it have hit city hall? Perhaps in Sanders' office? Or maybe broken into pieces up high and hit those responsible for our pension situation...

Same here! Lower server traffic, less people around to deal with in the real world. Win-win.

I believe that spec miata guys do this same type of mod to their tachs to make them more readable on track. The gauges mods are sure to help someone in the future. Thanks for posting.

Well mull, although the OP might not need the information, people preparing to use the product (me) can really use the information!

as Filmjay wrote, the kit should be labeled, the alt information is labeled, just match it up.

take cpt. furious' advice seriously. I went the way that he is advocating, and am VERY happy I did. Money and time can run short, and a reliable dd is !really! important. If the z breaks and you're broke and short on time, you'll really be in a bind. At least if you want to keep a job.

Don't mean to threadjack, but how do you vehicle security guys feel about an ignition cutoff? In one of my work trucks, we have a switch that interrupts ignition. Even with the key, if you forget to hit the switch, it'll crank and crank, but not fire. The switch itself is actually under the floor liner, so if you don't drive the truck regularly, it takes a sec to find. Just a press on the right (but really small) spot, a tiny click, and off you go. If I were to wire one of these switches with a relay, what would I search for as far as the specs on the switch? The switch in question is a little tiny guy, head about 1/8 inch, and resets every time the key is turned off.

For starters, check out this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115550 There's a picture there of the connections on the back of the GM alt. IIRC, one requires +12v switched, the other +12v constant. I would think that the sense wire would be switched, while the field wire would be constant. Don't take this as gospel, but a place to start looking.

Well, I guess I'm having a bit of trouble finding the part of my fan clutch that has the "grease" inside it. Mine differs visually from the one shown in blue's tech tips, and as far as I can tell, there is no way to open the clutch itself. Four bolts allowed me to separate the clutch assembly from the fan blades itself. Beyond that, I wasn't able to find anything else to take apart. I could post pictures if you would like, or you could take my word for it. Or....a PO could have installed an aftermarket replacement that isn't rebuildable. Or....this is a more remote possibility....the whole fan assembly could be from some other compatible vehicle, but my hands-on knowledge of zcars is limited to the one that I have worked on - my '71.

Unless you have a non-rebuildable one like me... My '71 had one that has no provision (as far as I can tell) for being opened up and rebuilt (a la blue's tech tips) Gave me an excuse to get started on using the 14" mercury villager fan I snagged out of the JY a bit ago. Now that I've done the CS144 alt. upgrade (thanks ktm and hizandherz). I'll have the amperage to handle the fan.

I'm in San Diego, and I was harassed twice within two weeks- in two separate areas of town no less! I was in the process of filling the holes and painting over the stock chrome on my 240 bumpers. Front was done, and back on the car. I had a weird defect in the paint on the rear and it was still off the car, pending a sanding and repaint. If you do decide to forgo the rear bumper and fill the holes, you're kind of stuck. Unless you want to re-create those indentations... Catch my drift? For now, try removing the bumper without filling the indentations. Run it this way for a while, if you're asked, the bumper is temporarily off for "paint" YMMV, and good luck.

For the interests of my sanity, I too choose to deal in the realm of the financially attainable. #1 - Daily - e34 M5 #2 - All Corners - r32 GTR #3 - High Speed Heaven - Turbo LSx FD RX-7 #4 - Mid or Rear - SW20 Second Generation Toyota MR2 Turbo #5 - Off the Beaten Trail - '76-80 International Scout Traveler w/ modern GM drivetrain #6 - Track Time - LSx powered Lotus Super 7 Clone #7 - WILD CARD - 240z, L31 w/Triples Of course, the wild card and the daily would be in a constant battle for my attention. The winner would be determined by a daily changing desire to either be coddled in timeless elegance or timeless raw experience.

Mustang. Realistic numbers please. Boxers or briefs?

My father was telling me about a program he had seen recently comparing factory offerings from the late '60's and early '70's. It compared motors like the the 426 Hemi, 427 Ford, and 427 Chevy. They replicated the motors based on their factory spec sheets to get an estimate of their actual horsepower back when they were produced. So....I'm very interested in having a look at the program. Anyone know at least what channel it was on? Or maybe a hint at the title?