essdeezee

I guess I should've been a bit more clear about what I posited. On a street-ish setup= stock compression, near-stock cam, stock-ish induction and fueling. Here's what I mean. The exhaust manifold (or header) is not the restriction to flow in the system. A street-ish setup does not produce enough flow to out-flow the capability of the stock manifold. As long as it is not the restriction to flow, you will see little improvement in power. In your case, you replaced the entire exhaust system from the head back. The performance gains that you have seen are most likely attributable to the reduction of exhaust backpressure that was created by the exhaust itself, rather than the manifold. If only we could go back and install the 2 1/2" pipe on the stock exhaust manifold and check numbers...

While you're under there, give the u-joints a wiggle. My first clunk came from there.

I just usually pull the choke a bit in cold weather... However, now that I think about it, running rich like that could tend to produce carbon buildup or foul plugs... Is my method bad?

Well worth the drive. Didn't mean to bust your chops too hard, good find!

By the way, did I mention that I hate you? And next time you find a pair like that in SD, tell me first ok?

Hey Grumpy, My dad did a mid engine sbc swap in a 66 corvair back in the 70's. He blew up the tranny and parked it. Back in about 2000, he pulled the motor, and it has been on a stand since. As of now, he's preparing another swap, but wants to use the motor. It's a 1970 Chevy LT1 crate motor, for the vette rather than the camaro. All stock, about 500 miles on the motor. So, here's the question: What steps should be taken to prepare the motor for use again? At this point, we're thinking that some marvel mystery oil through the plug holes every now and then, and eventually, turning it over by hand and repeating the process. Obviously, a full flush would be in order and a carb rebuild, but what else? Gaskets, bearings, freeze plugs?

I can't stress enough how important it is to have a reliable daily driver on hand if you plan on any sort of serious work. Often times, parts fresh from the store end up either being bad, or not being right in the first place. Often times, you make a mistake and end up needing additional parts/materials. Often times, you run into completely unforseen problems. Any of these happening could put you car-less for the work week. Real life has to come first, and not being able to show up just isn't an excuse to most employers. Do what I did. Buy a civic. Leave it stock. Hate it, but maintain it. Get 30mpg and reliability. Then feel free to go nuts with a z project. Thrash on it, enjoy it. If it breaks, you can park it until the next time you can work on it. Sometimes, real life has a way of putting its finger in your freshly baked cake. If you have some hardtack biscuits in the cupboard, you can shrug and say "well, I guess it's biscuits this week, but mm, here comes the weekend"

Man, if we could get 40k out of a set, we'd go that route too, but if you read a bit more carefully...... "Those first three sets went in 40k miles of street/frequent (~monthly) autox use with 3 drivers." Ouch?

On the family street/autox car (a 94 Miata) we use the Falkens. The miata is similar enough to the Z to provide a relatively similar comparison. (weight, drivetrain) They are a wonderful compromise that leans further to the performance side than the longevity side. We have gone through 3 sets of the rt-215's, which were the predecessor to the 615, and are on our first set of the 615's. The 615's are very similar in their characteristics, but everything about them is a little better (especially heat tolerance) Great lateral grip, good enough straight line grip for the 105 whp miata. I don't have any personal experience with the RT series on a higher hp car to gauge straight line grip. But, back to where they shine- lateral grip for the buck. Excellent handling characteristics, stiff sidewalls, good wet traction (non shaved, relatively new) Very progressive and predictable on breakaway, just enough squeal, good feedback. Longevity is their primary compromise. Those first three sets went in 40k miles of street/frequent (~monthly) autox use with 3 drivers. They also tend to get hard with a large number of heat cycles. They're still predictable, but peak grip is down a bit. The 215's had trouble dealing with heat, but the 615's are a massive improvement. I would recommend them without reservation, assuming your primary focus is grip, but not to the degree that a big buck R compound would provide.

Keep in mind that I'm not suggesting that this trumps collective safety but... Perhaps you would feel different if you had spend innumerable hours perfecting different areas of your vehicle's design within the confines of class rules. Should other competitors get a look at your setup, your legal comparative advantage would be compromised. Of course, photoshopping may allow areas of the photos to be masked, but that lets others know that there are things to hide. Or from another view, maybe he doesn't want the photos to get out to people who would want him to discontinue his hobby? Any number of legitimate reasons could be the case. Maybe "childish" as a judgement without proper context is uncalled for... maybe it is called for, but the uncertainty would keep me from passing judgement. Just a thought.

Had to bring this post back up to the top. Great advice, great inspiration. I'm a young guy, who used to be completely terrified of screwing up. I wanted a Z, but I didn't know the first thing about working on cars! I blew a headgasket on my l24 and was thinking about just writing the car off. An older friend of mine heard what I was thinking about, and straight up confronted me about it. "Are you really serious? REALLY NOW. I'm coming over tomorrow. We're going to pick up some gaskets first thing in the morning, and we are tearing that thing down." A couple hours later, I had a much more intimate knowledge of the L motors than before. The next day, after we buttoned it up and it ran, I had an epiphany: All the learning you do in school, all the reading you do on the internet, and all the people you talk to aren't worth a damn thing unless you are ready to get your hands dirty (well, forearms maybe- love them nitrile gloves!). Since then, I've learned to MIG weld, remodeled a kitchen and bathroom (plumbing, electrical, gas, appliances, drywall, custom woodwork/cabinetry, tile, granite, and other natural stone) , rebuilt my SU's, started rust repair and bodywork on the Z, and have become a craigslist tool section perusing fiend (so much for disposable income). Now, I have come to the conclusion that most things in life are pretty damn simple if you take the time to research, prepare, and purchase the proper tools. That statement is qualified by the "most" in it. I still have a list of things I feel I can and will learn eventually given the proper situation. I plan to make those situations happen. I'm going to learn to TIG weld, troubleshoot and rewire automotive electrical systems, build my own coilover setup (thank god for hybridz) for the Z, and learn to pull spindle pins. Guys, I love interacting with like minded people in a format such as this that encourages research and pushing the boundaries of the conventional. I hope, as I learn and grow, that I will be able to bring more contributions to the table here at HybridZ. Moderators, prolific members, and lurkers: Keep places and things like this alive.

what measurements are you looking for, I have a set of '72's in the car and a set of 71's in the garage.

I don't know if anyone visited the link I posted back on page one. It wasn't mentioned by any subsequent posters but the gist of it is this: The use of an additional layer of factory sheetmetal welded to the car's body in certain areas of stress, combined with limited tubing in the area directly around the passenger can be very effective in increasing chassis stiffness, and in some cases, crash protection. I think that the pictures in the link would say it all. Trust me, it's worth it just to see the fabrication porn.

Ever heard of a japanese fabrication/tuning shop called Opera Performance? Me neither, until I ran across this article a few years back in Sport Compact Car. The issue featured articles on three different cars built by the shop, each for a different purpose, and each with different methods for getting to the end result. How is this relevant to this discussion? Check the link to the article, page three especially. http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0611sccp_opera_performance_honda_rsx/index.html The goal was to have the stiffness of a caged car, but not sacrifice the safety of the occupants. Ever since I first saw this article, I thought the engineering methods employed were wonderful and could be applied to the Zcar. What say you? It seems like a great compromise for a dual purpose vehicle.

It works well so far, as I said, 4 months of being outside, 3 months as a DD. However, I have my airdam being supported from behind, so as to reduce flex caused by air pressure. No visible cracking at this point.

I have been autoxing regularly since I was 17 (damn, 7 years ago), and I'll be damned if it hasn't made me a much better driver! During my first year, I was SO focused on going fast. I was so excessively worried about being hard on the gas and brakes, that my line suffered. I was faster than some, but still slow. I was hanging around with some of the older guys, and one of them said " you know what kid, you need to spend some time just driving the right line" So, he rode along with me, and encouraged smooth inputs and focus on the proper line, rather than looking for outright speed. I dropped 2 full seconds on that run, a run that felt slow and smooth rather than fast and harsh. My advice? Hang around and seek out the guys who are running fast. Make a opportunity to introduce yourself when they don't seem busy. Often, the club hosting the event will have experienced drivers available for instruction and feedback. Keep your mouth shut and listen. Then come here and read. Then listen some more. Then ask educated questions. I have found the vast majority of people at autox events to be quite friendly, and willing to offer advice, insight, and information if approached properly.

Rustoleum makes an ultra-flat camouflage paint that is designed to stick to a variety of surfaces. I have used it with success on both the xenon urethane air dam and front bumper on my 240z I roughed up the air dam with 220, because the PO of the dam had just rattlecanned some ghetto black paint on there. It was cracking something fierce. For the bumper, I removed the cracked, terrible looking rubber outer strips and MIG'ed the holes shut. I ground the weld smooth and hit the whole thing with a wire wheel to get it clean. Then I used a hammer and dolly set to get the little dings close to flat. I skimmed it with bondo and sanded it smooth. Not show quality, but it looks good 4 months later, parked outside uncovered

I have the same damn problem. However, three times in the past 2 months (only one month of driving time in the Z) I have been given a "signal" that they saw what was going on, and wasn't pulled over. First time: Opening it up one early evening, passing a truck with a boat on a trailer shortly after leaving a freeway onramp. Made it to about 80, looked to my right and there he was, alongside. He flashed me with the searchlight, then raced ahead and snagged someone else. Second time: Coming up hot on a left turn at a light that I knew was soon to change. Made the turn just as the yellow was ending. Too close to call whether I made it entirely through before red, but the chirping tires and screaming exhaust note made it clear that I was not just putting through. Exiting the driveway just past the light was a traffic officer. He pulled up next to me, looked over, and wagged his finger at me, then kept on moving. Third time: Last week, I ended up behind a prius going 10 under on a 40 mph road that split to the right and had a yield sign at the next junction, which went into a 35 zone. Yield doesn't mean stop, damn it! So, of course, I stomp it, and swing around him as the merge is completed with a one fingered salute. 15 mph over the limit, I look back, and who's coming up behind me, but another traffic officer. He pulls alongside and shakes his head, then drives off again. Somehow they're there when I get moving quick, but I have yet to be pulled over in the Z, except for one who decided to give me a hard time about the bumper I had off for welding up and painting. I don't plan on a run of fortune like this running forever, but until then, I'll keep knocking on the wood-replica steering wheel sitting in the old parts storage area.

On my l24, I have a 6-2 header to y pipe, to 2.5" straight pipe, with 2 ~90* mandrel bends, to a dynomax superturbo. Down low, it sounds raspy, and builds nicely with rpm. No fart-cannish sounds. If I were to re-do it, I would consider adding a resonator to the transmission tunnel area to try to cut down on the 500 rpm band in which it gets nasty resonance. However, from what I've read, it is not likely to reduce it enough to make it worthwhile. From 2500-3000 rpm, it is droney. However, there is a simple and cheap solution. Never drop below 3k rpm As far as performance goes, from my reading of others' experience, 2"-21/4" is more than sufficient for an l24, and 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" is sufficient for an NA l28 application. Forced induction setups stand to benefit from exhausts larger than 2 1/2". As far as headers go, time has shown that their performance gains are nonexistent on street-ish setups. On some setups, they can shave weight, but they do raise underhood temps significantly in many cases. So, imo, go 2 1/2" to a muffler. It's cheaper than headers, street legal, and streetable, cause straight pipes are damn loud.

@speedgato- Thanks a whole bunch!

thanks ktm- I'll be taking the plunge here soon, thanks to your and hizandherz' research. Of course, seeing the Z parked is good enough reason to try and hurry along.

@speedgato Aargh, I would REALLY appreciate it if you could ask him the offset on those if you get a chance. They look like about 16x8 to 8.5, and about -10 to -15 offset. I'm close on getting to my chosen size, but those are pretty much IT.

@ktm- I'm planning on doing the cs144 alt upgrade this next week, and figured this thread would be a more likely place to find a response. Do you know of any longevity issues with using the cs144 on an L6 due to the higher number of revolutions it sees, as compared to the caddy motor? Autozone wants ~$160 for one including the core (which I don't have yet). I plan on snagging one from the JY and running it till it dies, at which point I'll find a lifetime warranteed one somewhere. Am I going to have to make use of that warrantee at regular (read-shorter than usual) intervals?

paid $95 with a $30 core at rockauto.com back in january.

@speedgato Any info on the wheels on the black car, they look sick! Specifically, size/offset/tire choice. I am looking into Diamond Racing Wheels with ZG's for my s30, and checking out others' setups.