ZROSSA

Thanks for the replys, I had forgot that the design of the control arm basicly makes the suspension movement work in only one dorection. Dont want any binding! Douglas

Howdy all, I am about to weld in the rear camber plates on my 260. I can get abot 5-8 ml extra caster by welding a little further back. Is there any advantage to doing this? Increased stability in a straight line perhaps? Or do you think it would make the car more difficult to turn in? This car will be mainly used for targa style rallys and fast road playing. Front tires are 245/45/17 and rear are 275/40/17. Front spring rates are 250lbs, rears are 275lb....and it's a 2+2. Open diff at this stage. Cheers, Douglas

Here is a bit of a long shot. I remember reading that the brakes on the holden were also used on the corvette. C4 I think. Could be a place to start looking. Douglas

Not really. Been pruning the vinyard and the weather has been pretty good so no rainy days off. Talked to the guy who is helping with the bodywork last night so kind of remotivated him a bit. Also decided to go with coil overs and camber plates all round so had to undo some things to make them fit. Getting remotivated though. Bought a new-old toy,BMW635csi with i would like to play with as well. Wife says I have to finish the other projects first so getting people and jobs line up to finish it. Still having a hell of a time getting my machinest to finish things like the hubs and brakes. Going to have to stick a rocket up his arse big time! Douglas

Got a front and rear in the shed. Be a paint to ship though. Douglas

Wicked work! Really liked the bottom control arms on the blue evo. A similar soution lookes like it would work on the s30 chassis. Ivan, Do you think you could post a photo in the suspension forum so we could hash out the pros and cons? I wouldnt have the foggest how to do it. Thanks, Douglas

Jay, Wicked car. Well done!!!!!!! What size tire are you using? Cheers, Douglas

Finally some photos for you guys. http://album.hybridz.org/member.php?uid=8086&protype=1 Have done flares and roll cage, lots of rust fixing and sanding. Trying to find someone to help finish the body work and paint now. I hate to farm it out but I just dont have the time as our business is expanding at a rapid rate and I am still a one man band. Seem to spend all day working and all night in meetings. Hopefully will have more progress soon. Cheers, Douglas

Ok, Some new photos are up...... http://album.hybridz.org/member.php?uid=8086&protype=1 Cheers, Douglas

I have the photos now. Just need to get them on the p.c. Will have to wait untill this evenning. Off to go pick olives all day. Douglas

I am slack as Usuall! I will try to get some photos up today! Douglas

interesting, With the spec and rpm these engine are turning I would be hoping for 600 hp or more. The local circle track guys hrere are getting that power with standard bore and stroke with the engine converted to run four barrel carbs. Douglas

Toni L. Nice work. I found out when putting the roll cage in my 2+2 that If the door bar was to high then I couldnt use the stock handels. Have you checked this? I wanted to be able to pull the handel from over the top off the bar. You might be able to get at it through them. Douglas

Basicly I cut along the crease line at the corner and lowered the roof a bit and re welded the roof to the side part at a lower level. Then I removed the extra metal on the side part of the roof. You get the same profile over the middle of the roof but the crease lines profile has now changed. I think it make a bit of a difference. Mines still in primer but when you get paint on it it should show up better. I will try to get some photos this afternoon. Douglas

I have a 2+2 as well. It had rust in the rear part of the roof so I had to replace metal there. While I was doing this I changed the height of the crease line of the roof at the rear and brought it marginally closer to the window. This softened the "Hocky stick" angle a bit and made it look a bit better without to much work. I also removed the drip rails at the same time which helps as well. Its due to be painted soon so I am going to black out the crome suround on the windows and also paint the recess the windows area in black as well. If you look at some more recent cars, new suzuki swift comes to mind, you will see that the manufactures do this on the A and B pillars to give the look of contiueous glass. I think you could also do this at the rear of the window. I would do it differently then the coupe and extend it out further then the crome vent. This would visually lenghten the window in this area and also have the effect of narrowing the roof line. Cheers, Douglas

Dont want to be rude, But I dont think you are going to acheive much more then a lot of work and extra weight. You dont need most of the under floor c section. Use box section or turn it upside down so that it forms a box with the underside of the floor. You only really need subframe connecters under there. Have a look at some of John Mortesen's (spelling?) chassis posts. He has pretty much flogged the issuie to death and there is some good info. You need to add some trianglulation to the strut towers and dash bar. To really make it effective it needs to then be joined to the rear strut towers. Cheers, Douglas

Thanks, Roll cage wouldnt pass tech if I did that. The dash is craked so will need work anyway. I will make up a pattern when time allows. Silly season for me at the moment. 16 hour days................ Douglas

I wil try tp get some photos this weekend. I went to take some months ago for you and found the camera wasnt charged. As its my wifes camera I had no idea where the charger was and soon forgot about it. Sorry. Progress is very slow, however its almost ready for paint. Working on the zed is one of my rainy day jobs. It just doesnt rain much here and usually by that stage there are a whole bunch more more important rainy day jobs ahead of it. The windscreen is out. I dont see how I could get the dash in that way. The front bars of the cage run from the roof to the floor. No matter which way it goes in some of the faom and I suspect internal metel structure of the dash will have to be trimed. I just dont want it to look like crap. I guess I could make a template of sorts. Just wondering if there was an easyer way. Douglas

Howdy all. I was in the shed this afternoon and started to think about how to modify the dash to fit around my roll cage. The cage is in very close to the a pillars and is in fact welded to them in places. I will need to cut up the dash a bit to get it back in. It looks a though I will be able to use the standard mounts in most places so that cool. Any ideas on how to do this without butchering the dash? Cheers, Douglas