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Maybe your head is pitted. Or more likely, while flat, the exhaust manifold has a slight amount of torque on it, that is to say it's a bit twisted. If you don't a three-foot straight edge to check things out, a large carpenter's square works surprisingly well, for surprisingly cheap.

Absolutely check the flatness and evenness of the entire manifold with a good straight edge. Also check the thickness of the exhaust manifold's flange relative to the intake manifold's flange. If the exhaust manifold has had material removed, and the intake has not, the common bolts (namely the cupped washers) may not be applying proper pressure to the exhaust manifold. Stacking gaskets wouldn't help in this case, as you'd be raising both manifolds off the head. Checker/Schucks/Kragen (and now O'Reilly's) do use Fel Pro gaskets. They aren't known for their quality, and love to make gaskets that fit many years of vehicles by hybridizing the differences between them. Also, what changed that now you want to elimate our Early-Nathanial-Warning-System?

Megasquirt (including II) does in fact have programmable DFCO. Drivetrain slack isn't the issue when the jerking is rapid and repeating. tech9 was still using the stock EFI, so he didn't so much have a 'tune' on his car and whatever adjustability there is in the stock system. In his case, timing seemed to be the issue, specifically improperly functioning stock distributor, giving him extra timing at low rpms and screwing with his tune. Tune being all factors being inputted into the management of the engine, stock and limited, or fully programmable.

It's an awesome swap to make. I have a Lexus LS400, and I've always felt that with either a good set of cams or un-natural aspiration, or both, and proper tuning, that engine would wake up and sing. Even in a fairly stock format, there should be a lot to gain with tuning and optimal shift points. The cost with aftermarket cams is an issue, with four needing to be done, vs one for a L6 or chevy. DOHC V-engines get expensive quick. http://www.lextreme.com has some nice stuff. Cams, superchargers, etc. Not cheap, but not horrid considering the size of the aftermarket. DocMuffin - once you start your own thread, let us know, we'll be sure to follow along and offer help.

I suppose one could have it in place so the passenger could adjust ride settings while the car is in a race. Or get the shocks out of the way when converting a vehicle to be amphibious. I know all too well what salt water does to, well, most anything. Still cool though. One advantage I could see is having shocks which are not compressed at a 1:1 ratio to wheel movement. There may be some slight advantage with that, in setting high and low-speed dampening. Even so, I think an amphibious Z (or even 240SX) would be cooler.

Don't rush it. As long as it isn't your daily driver, take your time and do it right. It sucks to have to pull apart your work to do it again. It really sucks when you had the time and knowledge to do it right the first time. You'll get it, we're not worried, only watching and egging along. That sounds like a nice and interesting job. Lots of custom work with something different every day. I didn't know they were gas insulated (nitrogen?) to reduce arcing and extend contact life. Some of the older (40+ years) switching stations have oil filled disconnects. Go and enjoy the change of pace, keep us updated and be sure to let us know if you have any new ideas for the build or just want to bounce some thoughts off of someone. -Eric

Yes, it is possible. Yes, it takes custom hoses. They aren't that expensive, any A/C hose repair shop should be able to make them. I believe ww (Wade) has A/C in his RB26DETT '72. A/C, power windows, Porsche 996 brakes, seats from the same, maybe power steering too. Seriously amazing build. See link for pictures. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136411&page=11

What do you do for a living? And when you come back, if you need any encouragement to finish up quick, just let us know. We're good at that sort of thing.