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A cardiac surgeon is gets his car fixed, and when he goes to pick it up he's chatting with the mechanic a bit when the mechanic says "How come I make $20,000 per year and you make $200,000? I've seen all the diagrams of the heart. It's just like an engine with valves and chambers and pipes. With tolerances like that I could have one of those things rebuilt inside of an hour." The surgeon looks the mechanic dead in the eye and says "Try doing it while it's running."

I just love the Red Green Show. Still carried by a very few stations in the US. I spend enough time on farms to appreciate (and identify with) the redneckisms. This one is worth a watch to the end too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_b2xIEfj2Y&feature=related

I just can't believe I didn't think of this before. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgMheL7dGu0&NR=1

Still, you can't outrun a radio. A friend of mine told me how he was doing 160+ on highway 5 on some crotch rocket. He was finally stopped when two semis blocked the road in front of him. That's when he looked in his mirror and saw several cruisers failing to keep up. Week in jail, bike gone, no license for either 6 mo. or a year, I forget, and I really don't know how that guy is still alive.

Three statisticians are out hunting with bows and arrows. They see a deer. The first one takes a shot and misses, six feet left of the deer. The second one takes a shot and misses, this time six feet to the right of the deer. The third one starts jumping up and down yelling "We got it! We got it!"

Yea, it's also easier to ask, sometimes even if you do have a set. It's tricky to get a good measurement when the wheels are in use with tires on them, and I've seen wheels with the numbers ground off. Namely "show" wheels, that are painted fancy and weigh twice what stock ones do. lazycat5 - Check with MT to see if those tires are rated for a 6" tire. There should be a spec for wheel width ranges on their website, or just call them. Better safe than sorry. If something does happen, it's a guarantee it'll happen at the absolutely worst time.

I'd worry about visibility if you didn't have a really wide angle lense and a daylight readable display. With a regular rear view mirror you can move your head around and get a larger field of vision. With a camera you'd have to use a motorized mount and play with a control to see around a bit more. A camera works good for backing up because you're going slowly and precisely, not making split second decisions while in fast traffic.

Tony, you're absolutely right. People all over can't preform proper diagnostics. I see it constantly at automotive shops where their only solution is to replace a part and see what happens. I worked on a CNC lathe that wouldn't run, and upon checking the registers, the bit for door closed was a 0. Checked the door, and it wasn't fully closed. Had to slam it to get the sensor to catch. A readjustment, and everything worked smoothly, no slamming shut access doors any more. That was a machine shop that had a strict policy of outsourcing all their diagnostic, repair, and maintenance work. They'd had employees try to fix things in the past that cost them far more than paying a guy to come in a shut the door a couple times a year.

It's actually cast into the wheel, as well as being in the FSM. My 1982 NA wheels (NOT the same as yours) have 6JJ-14 stamped on them. That's a 6" wide wheel, JJ lip pattery, 14" diameter. Check the GI (General Information) section of the Nissan FSM, it has all the wheel options listed along with their sizes and offsets. The '81 Turbo FSM suppliment lists a 6JJ-15 *10 single piece aluminium wheel. Translates to 6" wide, JJ lip, 15" diameter, 10 mm offset.

And the Y40 came carbed, should be fine bolted up to a Y44.

This is what he told me when I asked about the tag: type CRLS3O ENGINE CAPACITY 2565 cc ENGINE NO. L26-120735 CAT. NO. GRLS3O-017288 I realize this has a six cylinder nisson tag but there was never a reazon in nevada prior to 2008 that checked the moter data againts the emissions data, therefore it never had to match Should I tell him he doesn't have an original V8? Just a nice swap?

Does the 260Z (late) have a metal tag riveted to the firewall like my 280ZX and 300ZX do? That would shed a whole bunch of light on what was in that car from the factory. From a quick search on HBZ, there's at least one, if not two other Zs with Nissan Y engines in them. One in CA (possible), another in Australia. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99581

Which bearing?

I think they might have been hurting for a while. I worked at CSK (Checker/Kragen/Schucks, now Oreilly's) in their commercial division selling to a lot of shops, and I saw a large number of cams go out the door. Seems people bought comp cams, and praised crane. I think comp cams got a 1-up with cam/lifter packages, and selling lifters to distributors to be sold as house brands.

60/40 lead/tin rosin core solder. It's cheap, works great, has a nice low melting point, the fumes smell great and are good for you too. The silver stuff costs too much and has a higher melting point, making it a little harder to work with. The lead free stuff and the 'clear flux' stuff cost more than is needed. Something nice and thin, such as 0.030 is great. I've used a lot of radio shack part number 64-005 solder and like it. It's a nice sized spool, and under 6$. I agree with flexi when he says the bubble operated solder-suckers are hard to use. I have a spring loaded one I really like, it was only five or six bucks. A good digital multimeter is an absolute must. Expect to spend at least 40$. Fluke makes some great meters, as did Metex. HP meters are good, but expensive and rare. It's not a bad idea to get to know a local electrics store too, not a radio shack, but a real one. Wait, no, the lead fumes are bad, don't breathe them.

Flexicoker, those are some great tips. Especially the last one. You should add them to one of the stickies, such as the overview/newbie thread. I've also seen that running a separate power/ground for the PWM circuits helps with the noise. S130Z - I'd recommend fixing the head gasket first and making sure the car runs good on the OEM system. Trying to track down engine issues while installing a new system on your car is crummy. Invest in a really good soldering iron. You don't need a soldering station, but a good 30W iron will make life easier. A magnifying glass, or better yet one of the weighted thingies with alligator clips and a magnifying glass that adjust all sorts of ways helps a huge amount. Get a solder-sucker and solder wick too, makes messes easy to clean up. With the solder sucker it's super-easy to open up holes again when you de-solder and remove something. My #1 most useful tool is a precision side-cut-off tool. It's just a little snipper thing, but with strong jaws small enough to get in between the pins on chips. Excelent for trimming leads in tight quarters. -Eric

If you like this, check out Click and Clack, also known as Tom and Ray. They host a radio show called Car Talk, and it's a kick in the pants. Check it out at http://www.cartalk.com/menus/show.html Their advice is worth listening to. Perhaps not paying attention to, but it's always good for a laugh.

I'll presume that's an automated message, but it's still good to hear a response like that.

I have the distinct feeling that the after market manufacturers will be against this in full force. The tire issue scares me. One of the first things I do when I buy a new car is put GOOD tires on it. That means tires with a tread wear rating in the low 300s for touring (sedans, stock coups) and something in the high 200s for spirited driving (modified sports cars, Zs, etc). I see around a 2mpg drop in economy, but I can stop that car a whole bunch faster without locking the wheels and I can turn quicker at speed to avoid debris in the road. My driving habits and the hills I live in play a FAR larger role in determining my fuel economy than any modifications to my cars. This law sounds too idealistic to be any use. Some after market cam shafts increase mileage because of decreased pumping loss, more power at cruising with less throttle. I know there are V8 Zs here that get better mileage than one of mine with a stock engine. What if the alternative after market parts help decrease emissions? Does that have to be proven before one can use them? Idealistic laws seldom pass, and are even more seldom enforced because they are impractical and their impacts are not well thought through. This bill also appears to be guilty of a number of logical fallacies. The blanket banning of after market parts under the premise of their increasing greenhouse emissions is an appeal to probability as well as both package deal and necessity fallacies. I knew being a philosophy major would pay off someday...