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If you're using the stock stereo, then the audio signal travels through a relay in the voice warning module. In one position, the audio is pass-through, in the other, the speaker is connected to the voice system. You can't easily use an aftermarket stereo with the existing wiring in the car, as it uses three wires for two speakers. The way you have to do it with an aftermarket stereo is to run new wires to the front speakers, and use the existing wires for the rear speakers. That's just about the only way to keep the voice warning system working with aftermarket radios. There is no mute function in the stock stereo, not like many aftermarket stereos have mute wires for use with handsfree phones integrated into the car. It's a physical relay in the voice warning box. The reason that using the existing stock wiring for an aftermarket stereo blows out the stereo (or the voice warning system, or both) is because you need to tie speaker out wires together, and the new systems won't work with a common wire.

Jack of all trades. Too many to pick. IT, ME, EE, Mechanic, Salesman, Student, Handyman, Plumber. I do everything that needs to be done.

That's an absolute work of art! How does that head handle boost at the 9:1 quoted on the web site?

The Toyota Cresida. Not such a bad car to sit in and drive around, and extremely non-descript. Looks like every other small japanese 80s sedan. It's engine seriously lacks in the torque department, and an L6 would completely fix that. I just don't remember if it's RWD or FWD. My family got rid of the one we had a very long time ago.

You could try removing the lower rubber o-rings and soaking the tips in gasoline. If there's crud in there, that may break some of it loose. Also, check the wires you were using to connect power to the injectors, see if you get 3 ohms through them when they're hooked up to an injector. Edit: Diesel may be a nicer choice to help clean things. It breaks up goo well also (Nissan specifies it for cleaning the hydraulic lifters on the P90a) and doesn't evaporate and stink to high hell (not to mention diesel doesn't tend to explode the same way).

Make sure the connectors are clean, and check the resistance with a good multi-meter. I forget if they're high or low-resistance, but they should register in either the 2-3 ohm or 8-16 ohm range. If they register 0 ohms or several (thousand) ohms or more, or no connection at all, you've been sold some bad ones.

The door contacts have three wires, one always goes to ground, and the other two get connected to eachother when the door is open. Diodes are used to seperate the signal from the left and right door so the voice warning system knows which one is open, yet the dome light dosen't care. See here for the 82 ZX service manual. The wiring should be the same for your car. http://carfiche.com/manuals020/cars/ If you do decide to completely get rid of the talking lady, I might be interested in getting ahold of your module. Mine burned out a long time ago.

If you un-hook the little black box that houses the lady we all love to hate, you'll loose sound from the stereo speaker she normally talks out of. The speaker signal from the stereo runs through her, and there's a relay that cuts it out and connects the speaker to her voice. Take a look at the wiring diagram for the voice warning system. It's in the FSM downloadable from carfiche.com (82, but it should be the same) and I think someone may have posted a copy here somewhere too.

"Learn from others mistakes. You won't live long enough to make them all yourself."

Here's one I shot while I was parked in Rock Town at Lake Wilson, KS These are a few of the family boats parked in a cove where we all camped And here I captured some C15s in the small boat racing series I was helping run down at the Half Moon Bay Yacht Club. See my "Photos" album for some more pictures I took, and drop me a PM if you have any questions about them.