eec564

Absolutely beautiful! I only wish I had the time to do that right now. None of my friends around here know squat about cars. (They always are comming to me) That's going to be a killer build, what are you useing for an ECU and who are you going with for piston rings? Or are you just re-using the Total Seals you have?

Why?

Does that mean they pay you more than your worth? Or that you'd like us to place a short call to your boss...

Well, I'm not 100% sure, but I think I know what it is. That plug is right next to the ECU connectors, right? I have the same thing on my 82 N/A, and it connects to pins inside the ECU. Those pins are the exact same thing as the little green LED that blinks in time with the O2 sensor. I figured that out on my car by taking the ECU appart. The FSM I have lists that connector as "Not Used" for both N/A and Turbo.

I think it would be fun to outfit blue and red lights into the front grill of a Z. Add a siren, and use one of those red revolving lights that sticks on your roof with a magnet. Even better if it's a Black Z, with no plates, and black tinted windows. If you want to remain majorly under-cover, just put cheap wal-mart spinners on any cop car. That's the easy way to tell a cop crown-vic in the US, the rims.

I'd also highly recomend reading this four or five times http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html'>http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html I think every article from here should be required reading...but I ain't your mama... http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

I think I know what it MIGHT be. Seeing as you have an 81, don't you have the same distributor as the N/A ZX? If you do, then I think I know your problem. It is in fact inside your distributor, but it's possible it's not the transistor box. It could be the breaker plate assembly. That is the mechanism that controlls vacum advace. There is a small plastic plate that holds three ball-bearings in place that lets the plate rotate, with the relutor (or stator, I forget which term means what, it's the jagged pointy thing under the rotor that's on the outside) moving on top of it. If that mechanism is sticky, since you parked it at full vacum, the plate can get stuck. Once you apply vacum to it one or twice by reving it, the plate gets unstuck and works fine. My breaker plate does the exact same thing since I rebuilt the distributor and found the breaker plate wasn't doing anything, I was stuck without vacume advance. I even passed smog once with it like that! I replaced my entire assembly with four or five washers I machined down to the perfect size, lubricated with liberal amounts of lithium grease. The mechanism still sticks if I park it HOT, without idling down first, and try to start it again within 10-15 mins, but other than that, it works great. Disclaimer: Just because this happened to me, dosen't mean it's happening to you. It's possible you have loose wires, the transistor unit is going out, or something else. But this sounds EXACTLY what what my car does. Give it a few good revs, and it work's absolutely perfect again.

Clifton - Looks like a really good company, I've added it to my encyclopedia of links. X64v - Sorry you couldn't get those ebay ones working, let us know how the new ones turn out.

Yea! Put up pictures of completely naked women!

I've never actually done it before, never had to. But I'd immagine you'd start by popping off the cap over the spot where the fuel comes out. I'd say patience is your friend and brute force is not. Just find seams where it could seperate and be gentle. Take off all the rubber seals first, then go for plastic. Make carefull note about where everything goes, and what direction it goes in. Something that looks like a flat washer might actually have a slight curve in it, and needs to go a certain direction. (Go ahead, just ask me about the master cylinder in a 64 XKE, brakes not fully dissengauging, and glowing discs.) If you have any injectors you know you won't be using and aren't important spares, you may want to try one of them first. However, since the ones you just bought aren't working at all, and if sending them back or having them professionally cleaned aren't options, you don't have anything to loose. BTW, this may seem obvious, but take off all rubber seals when cleaning injectors with solvent, rubber tends to swell up and leak when hit with chemicals it wasn't designed for. Maybe try and ultra-sonic bath.

Hey, you've got some serious potential going there if those are the girls the Z is already attracting! And I can only fit 3 in my 2+2. I'm 6'3", so the seat behind me is useless. I did manage to fit 8 in a Grand Marque (like the Crown Vic). Three in front, five in back.

Stony - What tires were you using? With regular long-lasting street tires (205/70R14) I can't get enough power to the ground to cause flex. My GF's miata flexes a HUGE amount, not from the engine but from turns and bumps.

So then what kinds of vehicles are they using undercover these days? That one looks like a chevy pickup, what's it gonna be used for? Might be good to know considering how many of us here like to drive...

Sending them out to be cleaned and flow-tested would be an excelent choice. It's just gonna be a lot more expensive than doing it yourself. All the coils appear to be good, and those are the only part of the injector I can think of that could actually burn out. You could either try popping them appart by yourself, and hoping for the best (I do stuff like that ALL the time) or you could call these guys: http://www.rceng.com/ Here's a fairly interesting page about fuel injectors that made it onto my bookmark list. It's not an answer for you, but interesting reading none the less. http://yarchive.net/car/injectors.html

I've got a copy of "The World Encyclopedia of Cars", Martin Buckley and Chris Rees, ISBN 1-84038-611-8 It's pretty hefty and has a lot of fun information at it. Browse through it at your local bookstore and let me know what you think. I like mine.

If you REALLY wanna blow him away, get him an poster of a car he likes autographed by the designer. Specifically if the autograph is made out to him, not something bought off ebay.

Man, they've gotta be gunked up bad. If you feel comfortable rebuilding them yourself, you could try that. Anyone have the exploded-view of those injectors?

If you're rally driving it dosen't matter if your wheels aren't in perfectly in alignment. There's no way that car would ever pass a safety inspection again without major repairs. I can only start to think of a list of things you'd need to do the a car to make it roll away from something like that. Captive engine motor mounts Strut tower braces Full roll cage Driveshaft loops And a lot more... Plus modifications to the suspension I can only begin to think of. I don't really think this is a good example of how well built the STI is, but how well built a Purposefully Built Racing Car is.

These days, my electronic and automotive toys are my expensive habbit.

No, the big wing is to make them go faster at normal freeway speeds.

I wouldn't bother pulling my whole motor apart to change the pistons unless I really have to. Do some reading on how nistune and romulator work. Don't go buying anything unless you actually need it, especially if you don't know exactly what it will and won't do or how you're going to use it. Check out Ray Hall Turbo Charging at http://www.turbofast.com.au and their turbo match calculator at http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFmatch.html You can refrence the GT series back to the T non-ballbearing series to see what an equivelant model would be as a simple (well, somewhat simpler, but less expensive) upgrade to your car.

Everytime I see something like that, I always wonder how much they'd modified the car. I could see breaking half the suspension doing that. And having the other half fall off. Take a look at the bonus features on the new Dukes Of Hazard DVD, they wrecked dozens of fully reinforced chargers to make that movie.

It's nice that we have such a great group of people here, willing to share a bit about their lives outside of their love for Z cars. It's amazing how well we come together from so many different walks of life.

Well, if I were you, I'd start with an intercooler. Turbo cams tend to be pretty well tuned from the factory, just waiting for higher boost. An intercooler (and boost controller) will allow you to hit that point. I'd wait on getting a new fuel pump and injectors until you max out what the stock ones can do. A wide band O2 sensor would be a good investment as a safety measure while tuning. Make sure you don't run lean while turning up the boost. Check out some of the stickies for re-tuning the ecu, and you'll get a better idea of what the stock system is capable of. Unless you want to completely rebuild the motor, I'd hold off on mechanical modifications to the engine. Stick with the things that won't have you constantly reaching for more. I've been subject to "While I'm at it..." syndrome several times.

Manifold pressure is an excelent tuning and diagnostic tool. You can see if your engine is out of adjustment by seeing how smooth a vaccum it pulls, among many other things. The thing I like about having one is for tuning at cruise speed. Tuning your car to cruise with a high vaccum can result in significant milage increases. It's cheaper then a wide-band, and doubles as your boost gauge too!