ktm

Chris, thanks for the offer. I'll probably take you up on the offer for the rods and pistons. I'll pm Phil.

Local to So Cal, Simi Valley-Palmdale-LA-OC-SD is fine. Please PM me. Thanks!

Detonation caused the damage. Too much timing caused the detonation in mine ans Sean's cases. It is not cooling related.

Yasin, I was running 22 psi increasing to 24ish after peak torque. Mark, I was running methanol injection, up to 1400 cc/min. The detonation was a result of my tuning efforts and not the methanol system failure.

Thanks all for the words of advice. Tony, your suggestion is a great one. I'm now on the hunt for an N42 or another F54 block. I was playing with the engine calculator last night and dreaming of a low compression 3098 cc stroker. I am looking for the N42 to support that dream, but another turbo block - even flat tops, would be fine. Know anybody local? slown280z, x64v (Sean) munched the #3 ring because his dizzy came loose and advanced crazily. His HG was blown at every cylinder but #3, which munched the ring. It had nothing to do with the cooling mod. I blew out #4 and detonated the rings to death on at least #3. I am confident it was not attributable to the cooling mod. If anything, this shows that the cooling mod helps with #5 and #6. Wolf does not have a knock sensor input. I was trying to make the stock one work without much success.

Sounds like some cells are dead. Also, you will not see 14.4 v across the battery terminals using a stock 280z internally regulated alternator at idle. You will only see the 14.4 v at RPMs over approximately 1500 - 2000. I mentioned your battery VERY early on as well. You've drained it but good. I went through the same issue with my battery when hunting down an alternator problem. All the start ups without sufficient charging, etc. really drains a battery.

Well, I've had a run of "luck" over the past 1.5 years and managed to only blow head gaskets. My luck just ran out it seems. I blew a headgasket along with the ring(s) on cylinder 3 for sure and maybe more. Detonation damage for sure. As you can see, the HG blew at cylinder 4 and missed all the water jackets. I thought it was a simple exhaust leak as the sound was exactly like one. I ran it like this for about a month. I kept losing a small amount of water but thought nothing of it. I am not running an overflow tank and figured it was dropping onto the ground. I can see at #5 what looks to be a small conduit to the cylinder. I decided to pull the head after I ran a compression test and got the following numbers (1-6): 150 145 80 60 50 50. This was a 5 crank test as well. You can clearly see vertical scoring on #3 - there goes the rings. The pistons seem unusually dark and the residue is a bit oily on all cylinders, a result of blowby or the PCV system (mine is hooked up). As a point of note, the HG at #6 looks fine. The cooling mod seems to have done the trick, at least based on the HG damage. Ah well, time for a bottom end rebuild. I am sorely torn about what I should do. I am thinking about selling/trading my entire setup (Wolf included) for a sorted stroker engine with triples, opt for an LS1 or SBC setup, or just rebuild the bottom end. It is more frustration than anything doing all the thinking/talking at this point. I just need to step back, calm down, appease the goddess with an offering, and approach the project with a clear head. If I rebuild the bottom end, I plan on boring it out a bit and have not decided on dished or flat tops. My wife is a bit pissed so this will have to wait a few months if I want to sleep in the same bed.

Once you pay your space will increase again.

These guys sell all fittings imaginable for the Walbro series pumps: http://www.fuel-pumps.net/

Jeff, it always seemed to me that the stock thermostat would be a restriction even when it is fully open. Does that thermostat fit the stock L-series housing (stupid question for the night)? By the way, about the LD pump, I may have bought the last one in the US 2.5 weeks ago according to Courtesy Nissan (though I hope not). I bought it after reading this thread again. I just need to find the time to install it.

It depends on your injectant and the quantity you are injecting. For instance, I am using 100% methanol injected using two FJO Racing 700 cc/min high speed PWM solenoids/injectors (for 1400 cc/min at 100% duty). I am injecting around 20% of my primary fuel, thus I pull 20% of my primary fuel. However, methanol burns slower than gasoline so I have to add timing just to get a more complete burn. Furthermore, methanol has an octane rating of approximately 118, so you can add timing just from a detonation resistance standpoint as well.

It's not about condensing back into a liquid after cooldown, it's about condensing back into a liquid as it passes through the intercooler and the air charge is cooled thus lowering its liquid retention capacity. It may be a concern if you are spraying a large quantity of water/methanol as the air charge may be saturated such that any change in state (lower temp, lower pressure as that would occur as it passes through an intercooler) results in the formation on condensate.

I went from 503s and a base fuel pressure of 53 psi to 750s and a base fuel pressure of 43 psi. My idle is not any worse nor any richer. As you are so quick to state, "it's not just the size........."

The folks over at Classiczcars.com diagnosed a floating ground as well. It is easily tested by running a ground directly from the alternator to the chassis/battery.

Wolf is a great ems. Other programs have issues with Vista. Wolf works fine with XP. I'll have to try it out on Vista though. If you post some questions in the Wolf forum we'll be happy to answer them.

....and there is also Wolf that is based in Australia as well.....

wax, if anyone has an attitude in this thread it is you. I am running a fully sequential setup (yes, fuel and spark) as is RTz. We are both using the same EMS. I bought mine from RTz as he is a licensed distributor for them. As a matter of fact, there is even a sub-forum for the EMS we use. Saying that, unless you TUNE for full sequential, you are not utilizing it. It will not offer better driveability unless you TUNE for it. Am I utilizing the full sequential setup? To a degree, but I have not tuned each cylinder. I am simply pulling timing in 5 and 6 to account for their tendency to detonate first due to cooling deficiencies.

The injectors are not polarized so you can wire them any which way. Same for the CHTS and coolant temp sensor (not the sender to the gauge, but the sensor).

Tony, my statement is unclear and you are correct, there is a change in state. I should not have said negates but rather diminishes the cooling effect.

Putting it before the turbo inlet negates any cooling benefit you'll see from injecting it after the compressor. Case in point, my IATs are around 12 to 15 degrees C with methanol injection and a little over 40 degrees C without.

Yes, but the head was not stock. old slow car's numbers seem a little high, but its probably the cam. I was hitting 390 ft-lbs of torque on a T03/04E 50 trim; 417 seems within reach with a better hotside. The torque curve is similar to a stock setup except for the peak, which is why I asked about a cam early on. The boost curve looks fantastic! Incredibly flat all the way past 6000 rpm.

What do you mean you used high octane gas? If you used 100 octane, you should not be pinging at ALL with that timing table assuming your fuel map is correct You have an Innovate LC-1. Are you recording your AFRs with Logworks? If not, you should and then post them here. I have an LC-1 and LMA-3 auxbox (with built in RPM converter) that I use to tune with. I have a feeling that you are going lean in places on your map. Your wideband is not hooked up to MS, therefore you must be looking at your gauge to determine your AFRs. I am not familiar enough with MS, but I believe that a large part of your problem may be attributable to not having your wideband hooked up to MS. MS is unable to determine your AFRs and therefore not use them in any calculations if you are trying to use its autotune features. You keep saying you adjusting your AFRs, how? By modifying the AFR table? This is useless if you do not have your wideband hooked up.

I mounted mine in the same place using the stock electronic fuel pump mount captured nuts/threads that are there. I did not have to do any drilling or tapping.

Nice numbers. P90 and a cam with a stock bottom end?

John, I previously posted some pictures, as did Cygnus-x (IIRC), of my head gasket showing detonation damage at 4, 5 and 6. The worst was at 5 and 6 with 4 showing a bit of an egg shape. I used this observation as the basis for running the bypass at 5 and 6. You could certainly run a by-pass at 4, 5 and 6 and as our resident historian Tony D would add, professional teams ran a by-pass line to a manifold for each cylinder. I focused on 5 and 6 because that is where I saw the worst of the detonation damage on my head gasket. Also, having only two ports allowed me to utilize my existing coolant routing without tying lines together similar to Sean's setup. If you look at my arrangement, 5 feeds my turbo's coolant section that then returns to the bypass line to the water pump inlet; 6 goes to the port on the drivers side of the lower t-stat housing. Before I tapped the head, I was running a line from the lower t-stat housing to my turbo and the return was to the by-pass to the water pump inlet.