ktm

Yes. After looking at his file Wolf configured it with 6 ignition channels. What is screwy, though, is the pulse skip is set to 2 as you would expect with wasted spark. The firing order also seems screwy at 2-0-1-1-0-2. However, we do not know which ignition channel was wired up to what coil going to each cylinder. For all we know channel 2 could be wired up to cylinder 1. zedman, which ignition channels are you using and how have you wired them to your coils?

Check out around 3:45 to 4:15 I keep looping that segment over and over again.

Ecology and Pick Your Part are two different companies. They both have yards all over Los Angeles.

Keerist........welcome to the next generation.......

Gotcha. Most folks simply install a 390 cfm or so as a replacement for the SUs. The 600 cfm is a bit much. If you are going to run a line, use a relay to power the pump. Basically, run a 10 ga line from the battery to the relay, a 10 ga from the relay to the pump, a ground for the relay, and an ignition hot source to the relay. You can find out how to wire a relay by doing a quick search here.

I am sure that you've sent Ron your file, but could I take a look as well? My email is zadig_san@hotmail.com Thanks.

Not only you but us as well!

Exactly. I hit the ones in Long Beach and Sun Valley all the time. I have a facility right by the one in Sun Valley and I go there at lunch sometimes. The on in the IE by Fontana is nice, but it is a drive.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-15626/

Off-topic, but nice subwoofer setup. I am going to do the same here shortly, though with a single, sealed 8 or 10-in.

I believe Rota (or XXR) has a set of knock-off Equip 03s. Drag is another company that has some knock-offs as well. I would not powdercoat Sportmax 002s. When they powdercoat parts, they have to bake them. The little rivets on the 002s are glued on. You might wind up missing a few rivets after the baking process.

The part in bold confuses me. As I stated, you only need a 1/4-in. NPT to -6 an male fitting on the fuel rail. Use a braided line with two -6 an female ends, one on each end, or use a pushlock system with -6 an female ends. The FPR will have a -6 ORB to -6 an male adapter. That's it. The bottom of the FPR is the return. You plug the unused side (again assuming an Aeromotive A1000-6). You can see the plug on the side of the FPR, the end of the Pallnet fuel rail, the 1/4-in. NPT to -6 fitting and the braided hose. You can also see, if you look closely, the other end of the hose connecting to the FPR.

Not only must the sequencing be changed but the pulse skip must also be changed. It is just as important as the sequencing. If Wolf setup the RB to be fully sequential, then the pulse skips will be 5. You need to change them to 2 as shown in the sticky.

.....and your car would be what? Engine? EFI or carb? Really, more information is needed.

Sounds normal to me. Aftermarket FPRs are not very good at holding pressure when the car is not running. My Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR drops pressure when the car is turned off and will read 0 within a minute or two. The shaking on the gauge is most likely due to fuel pulses from the fuel pump, except it sounds like you have the stock fuel damper in place which should mitigate the pulses. Your damper may no longer be functional.

I am confused by your confusion. It is rather simple: 1/4-in. NPT to -6 male adapter on the fuel rail, two o-ring to -6 male adapters (assuming an A1000-6 FPR) and 1 o-ring plug. That's it, unless you are trying to connect the rail directly to the FPR. It is unclear where the FPR will be located. If you are trying to connect the rail directly to your FPR, you simply need the fittings I stated above as well as a -6 female to -6 female union. The fitting you show in the link will work and will eliminate the union fitting. They do not make fittings for every application.

Then you are doing something wrong. The stock pump can handle the 4-barrel. No, you'll fry the line. No. You'll fry whatever circuit you put it on. So you'll go through the effort to replace the SUs by swapping manifolds, but running 12 ft. of 10 ga wire is too much? What year 240z? The 1972 and 1973 240zs (I am not sure about the earlier models) have a wire with an inline fuse near the fuse box for an electric pump. They also have mounting points near the rear differential for the fuel pumps as well. However, I would still highly recommend running 10 ga wire to the back to power the fuel pump. Use a relay to power the 10 ga line. The ground wire for the fuel pump can be attached to the chassis. Electric pumps' flow ratings are sensitive to voltage. The 1972 and 1973 model years already have a mounting point (two capture nuts) for an electric fuel pump. Saying that, the stock mechanical pump is more than capable of fueling your engine. You may simply have jetting issues with the carb, tuning issues, or a faulty pump.

There are a few in the IE that you can peruse. Hell, there is one right by California Speedway that is imports only and always has ZXs and a few Zs. Longbeach has 3 large ones and Sun Valley has 1 large one. There are 2 smaller yards in Orange County near Knotts Berry Farm.

1) Have you recently calibrated you wideband? Innovate recommends 3000 miles or 3 months. 2) What are you using to read the afrs? A gauge or MS? My Innovate G3 gauge is fubared. It reads up to 4 points off the LC-1 wideband as recorded by Logworks and my ems.

Doh, I read the sticky and see where I was off-base. I had the ignition sequence correct for channels 1 through 3, but like Ron completely zoned on the batch sequence. Of course channels 4 through 6 are unused and the pulse skip is critical as well.

Just use a puddy knife when they are still hot. Keeps the wire wheel from getting gunked up and they peel off like budda'.

You are making this so much harder than it has to be. Try these methods: 1) Dry ice. Place dry ice against the undercoating for a bit and hit with a hammer. 2) Heat. I used this method. Heat the undercoating with a heat gun/torch and then simply scrape with a stiff putty knife. Acetone works wonders on the tar residue.

Tony, remember your discussing about expedience earlier in this thread?

You need three things in order to have a hobby car: time, place (garage) and money. If you are missing any of the three then I suggest waiting. You must have the time to work on the car or else it will lanquish in the garage. You'll end up selling it half complete because you realize you just do not have the time or patience any more to complete the project. You must have a place (garage) to work on the car. There will be those times when you cannot work on it and covered storage is nice. Also, having a place to work on the car in the middle of winter is great. You must have the money for a hobby car. Hobby cars, espeically modified cars, are money pits. If your budget does not allow for project funding after all of your other needs are met (don't forget the all important significant other fund), then I suggest waiting. Otherwise, see what I said about time.