ktm

Preferably polished, but any will do. Must be in good condition. Thanks, Bo

I am rebuilding my engine now and am installing a LD28 water pump based on discussions in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125186&page=3 I know I have to trim off the little piece in order for the pump to fit, but I had to trim nearly 1/2-in., not the 1-4-in. stated. The problem I encountered were the LD28 impellers kept hitting the timing cover sidewalls due to the shape of the spiral. How much did anyone else have to trim in order for the pump to fit? Now is the time for me to make any corretion such as getting a new cover and using the standard L28 pump. My concern is that the pump may not function correctly with so much cut. I cut just enough for the impellers to clear and no more.

The second video states 310 bhp not whp.

Congratulations! I am rather envious.

I have a stage 3, 50 trim T03/04E that hits 22 psi by 3200 rpm in third.

I made my own pressure bleeder with a manual pneumatic pumped garden sprayer.

Yah, I do the same hence the level 20s. I am on the west coast and Eonar is a east coast server so I wind up staring in space in Dalaran waiting for something to happen. I PVP a lot as well, mainly the BGs.

If you swap out either the master or slave cylinder, you should replace the other one as well. The parts are cheap and the combination of an old unit plus a new unit usually results in the failure of the old unit shortly. Mighty-vacs are nice but I have not had much luck with it on either my brakes or clutch. You can bleed your brakes and clutch by yourself. It is rather easy. Just hit your local parts store and pick up the one-man bleeder kit for $6. Its just a small bottle, tubing and a magnet. Was there any pressure on the clutch at all? Do you still have fluid in your clutch master cylinder?

Yasin, for further confirmation read Ron's sticky in the FAQ at the top of the forum regarding harmonic balancers.

I have numerous toons on a variety of servers that I created when my main server was down. I started playing on Tichondrius when WoW was first released. I played a warlock up to level 33 before deciding that the broken class (warlocks were broken at release) and server problems did not warrant my time. About 2 months later my buddy picked it up and I started playing on the PVE server Eonar. I have an 80 combat rogue with T7/T8 gear, 80 death knight, 40 frost mage (first toon on this server), 34 hunter, 28 druid, 20 pally, 20 warlock, and 20 shammy. I still play about 5 to 8 hours a week, mainly raiding with my rogue. Running Ulduar now with the guild when I can.

Only in New Mexico Doc, only in New Mexico. Here in Cali a single engine runs $350 unless you hit the half price days. Congrats on the pulls.

Copy cat. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125197&highlight=piping

James, I have an EGT sensor installed near the turbo flange on the exhaust manifold. I bought it from Redline Gauges. I have it hooked up to my Innovate LMA-3 Auxbox and record it during my tuning runs. Its not hooked up to a gauge but a data logger. What do you mean by boost control gauge? I am using an internal waste gate and a GM-type PWM controlled boost controller. The WG actuator sees NO boost until 17 psi (with methanol) so boost hits hard and quick. It then modulates my boost to 22 psi up to peak torque and increasing it after peak torque. I do not have issues with boost creep fortunately.

I am running 100% methanol. I do not have any issues when running methanol and a blend of 100 octane and 91 octane. I was in the process of detuning the car for just pump gas. I can manually switch maps via a toggle swith between 100 octane and pump gas both with methanol. The problem is not fuel related but timing. My afrs are dead nuts on, but timing is another matter. I was pulling timing but not enough. My EGTs are around 1500 under boost. The pistons are black from oil most likely. The residue was very oily. I get everything back on Wednesday and will be up and running within the month hopefully. This time I am pulling quite a bit of timing (which I thought I did). I should also mention that the block was a high mileage block. The cylinders were glazed and had ring wear to the point that a 20 over was necessary. It was its time, so to speak. The point of methanol is to add octane to your fuel; water injection cools combustion temperatures.

I doubt you are hitting more than 15 psi in first. The engine is barely loaded in 1st gear due to the gearing. I blow through 1st gear very rapidly as well. I have no traction whatsoever in 1st or 2nd gear with 245/50 BFG G-Force (can't remember the exact model) 340 treadware tires. If it is being setup as a track car, you do not need to worry about 1st gear too much. Wider and/or stickier tires will help with the 2nd gear spin. 7.5:1 compression is too low? You do realize that the stock L28ET compression is 7.4:1, right? You need to pull fuel if you are spraying meth. This is where it gets dangerous when tuning for methanol. I have my system setup to boost to 22+ psi, pull fuel and add timing only if my EMS sees pressure in the methanol supply line. No pressure, no fuel is pulled or timing added, and the boost is limited to 15 psi. You need failsafes when tuning for methanol.

Sometimes it is the most obvious solution.

If the FPR is not letting any fuel through, then your fuel pressure would be incredibly high. Sounds like you may be airlocking your lines (similar to vapor lock). I had this problem for a while on my car whenever I would have to drain the main fuel line and then try to start it. Try disconnecting the return line after the FPR and blowing through it. Read the paragraph at the very bottom. It mentions air locking. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock

Jeff, sorry to hear about your woes as well. I have had no problems when running a 95+ octane blend (100 octane and 91 octane), but I have been having one helluva time getting my timing right with pure 91 octane and methanol. I know I blew my head gasket and rings running straight 91 octane while detuning the car. I am running two maps that I can switch to via a manul switch in the car. Keep in mind my car ran for a good 9 months without issue. It was not until recently when I was detuning the car for just 91 octane (again, down from 95 octane) that I ran into my problems. I blew the HG back in March and thought it an exhaust leak (#4, right out the side, no oil or water). It was so subtle as well. I am torn at the moment. I am going to have the block either honed ($120) or bored 1 mm ($240 for any size bore). I can get ITM pistons, pins and rings for $220, no forged goodies for me. I don't plan on getting crazy, but the idea of another JY block just to tear it down again does not appeal to me. I figure I'll be $600 into the rebuild and have a known bottom end. I am going to do some clean-up work in my head, a little more on the intake, pull some more timing, add a little more fuel back into the map, and see where it gets me. I know I can clear 350 wheel ft-lbs easily; a 1 mm overbore would net me a 5% bump in power. Some clean-up work on the head maybe a little more. The gasket can take the power as can the rings. We've both shown that. You can not detonate at those power levels though. My AFRs looked pretty damn good across the map. I believe my problem was timing. The only problem with doing this work is that my tuning will be starting from scratch. Sure, I'll have a base map to work with, but with the increased air flow (either from the bore and/or head work) my fuel map will require tweaking. Ah well.

I do this just driving to the damn store!

You can use a Z32 tranny as well. A few of use are running those.

z-ya, I was hoping that folks who've run both setups would chime in with their own experience about which they prefer. I've done quite a bit of research regarding a flat top build. I do not know if I would be happy with its performance over the standard turbo setup. P90a head, stock 1.2mm head gasket, L28 crank, L28 rods, dishd pistons, standard 7.4 compression. I would simply use flat tops instead of the dished pistons. Both setups would be bored 1 mm over.

Sent ya a PM. I do a lot of driving anyways so a little trip would not be bad.

Exactly, we are talking about the N42 blocks.

Daeron, I plan on boosting a stocker, either a dished or flat top setup hence the other post. This has always been my test block. The other idea is just that, an idea for the future.

I plan on building up a nice setup after I get the car up and running on a replacement block. I am torn between going with dished or a flat top pistons. I was boosting up to 22 psi on my old setup. What I want to hear is anecdotal testimony from those who have had both setups and which one they prefer and why. My car was a screamer once on boost and by peak torque you'd blow by Lone Star One at Plaid Speed. Does anyone have any such experience that they would like to share? Keep in mind, most posts that I could find only included those who built a flat top setup and not a dished one and vice versa. I am looking for testimonials from those who ran both. Thanks!