ktm

Aligning center of gravityied to reduce induced moment. You can see this when on an engine stand. With just the block and head, the COG is basically along the centerline of the block. Spinning the engine on the stand is easy either side of the COG since it is "balanced". Add the intake and exhaust manifolds, and the composite COG is now towards the drivers side.

No, a 15 psi internal wastegate.

Say goodbye? You are not selling her are you Jay?

One possibility as to why it is holding at 15 psi is most likely due to wastegate creep by exhaust backpressure. My 15 psi wastegate would creep open and hold boost at 19/20 psi due to backpressure. I saw this occurring on a Mustang dyno while tuning and tested my theory by closing my boost contoller entirely which would allow it to overboost all it wanted. Sure enough, it would hit 19/20 psi and hold. Others see this at higher rpm and boost bleed off.

Brad, it is a Stage 3 wheel.

Damn, I just said happy birthday a, uh, year ago!

Update Engine: L28ET F54 block bored 0.020-in. over (0.5 mm), ITM dished pistons; ARP main studs, rod bolts and head studs; P90a hydraulic head; stock head gasket; mildly ported and shaved N42 intake; 240sx 60mm throttle body; Powerforce harmonic balancer; Flex-a-lite 210 dual electric fans; modified head for cooling issues; LD28 water pump Turbocharger System: Garrett T3/T04E 50 trim w/ .63 a/r turbine housing, ceramic coated turbine housing, water cooled, 360 degree thrust bearing; 24x12x3 I/C with 2.5-in. mandrel bent aluminum piping Fuel Injection: Wolf V500 ECU; Innovate LC-1 wideband controller and LMA-3 aux box; Redline Gauges EGT probe; 757cc Siemens injectors; Pallnet fuel rail; Walbro fuel pump; Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR; modified 240z fuel tank; braided -6 SS fuel lines from tank to engine and return with AN fittings; modified CAS; LS1 coil-on-plugs; full sequential injection and ignition; Two (2) FJO Racing 700 cc/min methanol high-speed injectors; FJO Racing pressure sender; FJO Racing 120 psi methanol pump. Exhaust System: 3" custom mandrel bent downpipe and exhaust to a Borla XR-1 straight-through muffler Boost: 22 psi by 3300 rpm increasing to 25 psi after peak torque Drivetrain: Z32 5-speed; ACT clutch and pressure plate; driveshaft with Spicer u-joints; Z31 3.70 LSD HP: Last dyno run was 388 wheel ft-lbs and 326 whp. Timing was retarded too much, AFRs too rich and slight hesitation encountered, boost bled off to 15 psi by 5000 rpm (wastegate creep - going to spring the actuator arm). I have not dyno'd the car with the new setup. I've springed the wastegate arm which eliminated the wastegate creep. My AFRs are good and the hesitation is gone. Once I finish breaking in the engine I'll hit the dyno.

I hear you and have made the changes already for the reasons you cited, but the fact remains that overrun should not even be on under 1450 rpms. For it to be on is rather strange.

Last weekend I finalized the installation of my rebuilt motor and fired the car up for the first time. It fired up immediately, even better than when I first bought the engine. The car idled beautifully. After checking timing, leaks, etc., I took the car for a quick little spin around the block to check for road worthiness. The car almost left me stranded at the bottom of the hill 1/2 mile from my house. It was sputtering and jerking badly, the AFR gauge was reading 16 to 18+ AFRs. Any time it was loaded up, even slightly, it would lean out badly and buck like a pissed off bull. Ah, fuel issue. I pull the fuel filter and it was FULL, I mean FULL, of crap. I clean the filter and try again. I pull out of my neighborhood and everything seems fine. I head for the gas station and it starts to do it again. I fill up and try to get home. I have to nurse the clutch, get the car moving while I can and coast until I get home. Ok, fuel issue again. I pull the filter suspecting it fouled up again but it was clean. I am now puzzled. I am suspecting the FPR after idling in the garage when I got home and giving it gas. It would immediately sputter and the FPR would not respond to MAP as I would expect. I head in to eat dinner and glance at my lap top (which, during all these runs, was connected to the car) that had Wolf up and was showing the last state of the car before I powered off. The first thing that catches my eye is that the overrun cut is on. However, check the attached image. It should NOT have been on. I have it setup to activate over 1500 rpms and turn off at 1450 rpms. My rpms as shown in the attachment are 1360. You can see that my AFRs are 21.5 indicative that overrun is engaged. However, my load was only 27%. I tested this theory just now and disabled overrun fuel cut. Sure enough, the car idles beautifully and revs freely. No sputtering what so ever. Any thoughts?

You need to read the cooling sticky at the top of this forum. Zmanco, others have already chimed in regarding checking the radiator. I would suggest reading this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153044 on the Gen I Chevy forums. It is discussing a hot running 383, but the principles are the same.

A Ron Tyler diff mount solves this problem.

When you start constantly breaking stuff, including the bank?

Lighter spring on the BOV.

I finally got the engine back into the car and fired 'er up this weekend. When setting the timing, I forgot which of the 5 timing marks on the Powerforce damper are TDC. I am 99% positive it is the left most mark when looking at the engine. I am asking for confirmation to assuage that little niggling doubt. Thanks!

A FSM and/or Haynes manual will show you how the dizzy spindle should be orientated.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135873&highlight=IAC A brief description of Ford IAC's I found in the JY.

Another nod for www.siliconeintakes.com I purchased my clamps and reducers from them a few years back and highly recommend them.

Sweet geezus, it does look like a volcano. Sing it Jimmy!

What model year car? As stated 5/16th are fine for any power application, it depends on whether or not your pump can pump the required flow at the pressure necessary for your power goals. Many people are running stock 240z lines and pushing 350 hp; others stock 280z lines at over 400 hp. There was a great thread on this subject not too long ago. The old sizing rules of thumb have more to do with low pressure, high flow carb pumps than EFI setups. I am personally running -6 feed and return without issue.

First, wrong forum. To answer your question, you are pulling timing at an IAT that is quite low. I do not pull timing until 45 degree C. My IATs are typically 40 degree C during pulls on the street. Your timing looks quite aggressive for 180 kPa, 30 degrees at approximately 12 psi. Others (as posted on the Megasquirt forum) are running anywhere from 22 to 26 degrees at 180 kPa. As for your IATs, it is most likely more a function of your ambient air temp (you said 70 degrees F in your other thread) than your IC. Most of us run are in ambient temps of 80 to 90 degrees F unless in the spring or fall. Check out the Megasquirt forum, under the map sharing sticky.

I agree, but in the case of the L-series it has been widely shown that cylinders 5 and 6 detonate before the others, all else equal. This is due largely to the cooling issue has discussed in the sticky at the top of this forum. The unequal distribution of airflow may be a contributor as well, since we are tuning to an average AFR (if running one wideband).

The piece from MSA is very high quality. It is the same one that Matt (aziza) has on his car. The car is looking fantastic! When you are done with yours, you can help me with mine.

Drax, check out www.autohausaz.com They carry Ishino gaskets which I primarily use with great success.

Obvious answer, because whoever performed the engine swap used an N/A dizzy. What is your real question?

Your vacuum was not at 22 or 25, most likely it was either at 18 or 20. However, I would not use a boost/vacuum gauge as a means to measuring vacuum. You should use a real vacuum gauge to measure your vacuum. when i drive the car and about 2,500 rpms and keep it there the car will jump back and fourth on me constantly(not very hard but you can feel it) Sounds like lean surging.