ktm

....otherwise they would not be nearly as great a source of aggravation, frustration, and sheer madness! Just a rant. I recently completed the installlation of the 300zx vented brake modification for the front and 240sx caliper swap for the rears. The car was down all last week as I slowly and methodically did all of the work after prepping the calipers earlier in February. All was well and I buttoned up the car on Sunday. I take it out to bed in the pads and set the bias. I noticed that I couldn't get the wheels to lock-up at all but the cars braking performance was dramatically increased (stock was Powerslot rotors with Hawk HPS pads). I pop the hood when I got home and found a leak.....a big leak. I could not trace the source for nearly 1.5 days until tonight because the leak pattern was odd. Turns out one of the flare fitting at the metric to NPT fittings at the Wilwood valve was leaking. I tightened up the flare fitting and managed to CRACK the metric fitting! @#(@#&$@ Ok....deep breathe. Let's remove the offending brake line from the fitting.....no dice, it shears the cracked fitting and is now wearing a halo. Oooooookaaaaay. Let's try to remove the line from the stock brake pressure switch.....no dice, damn thing is frozen and the PO has stripped the nut. All right.....where F*** is my hammer? I finally managed to remove the remainder of the lines from the switch and got it out, not after losing a boat load of paint under the Wilwood valve, leaving copious amounts of skin and blood, and froathing spittle in its place. I guess on the bright side I will now have new flare nuts in place of the old, rusted and stripped nuts. I am going to just use a 3/16 SAE flare fitting on the one side of the Wilwood valve since the other metric-to-NPT fitting is fine and not leaking. Now I know why I drink when I work on my car!

Not necessarily. If you are too rich then the fuel mixture is still burning as it leaves the cylinder and enters the exhaust manifold. This holds true if your timing is too retarded. Leaning out only increases temps until you reach 14.7:1 at which point any further increase in AFRs will decrease temps. You are at your hottest at 14.7:1.

Turbo-charged gasoline engines run around 1400 to 1500 degrees F when under boost (some cooler, some hotter). Diesel temps, on the other hand, are usually around 900 degrees and can exceed 1000 degrees under heavy load. You can run 1400 degrees at 15 psi and 1400 degrees at 25 psi, it's all in the tune. FYI http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125586&highlight=egt Phil was running methanol injection without tuning for it IIRC. Running 100% methanol and not pulling primary fuel and adding timing can cause you to run quite rich.

I saw one of these on the road yesterday in a lime metallic green with Michigan plates. I was driving down I-5 right by the Kia Motors building in Irvine. It looks likes pretty damn good on the road in motion.

Turbo timers are used to help prevent coking of the oil upon shut down, especially for non-water cooled turbos. If you drive the car hard prior to shut down, the turbo temperatures will be quite high. Shutting the car off immediately (this is especially true with non-water cooled turbos) stops oil flow instantly. The oil is allowed to sit in the turbo and overheat/coke-up. The turbo timer keeps the car running to allow the oil to continue to flow and helps to prevent coking. I do not know if there are different materials used for turbos built for diesels and those for gas engines. I would imagine that there may be as Justin stated. Porsche recently overcame the heat issue and is using the variable vane technology in their Porsche turbo now, a technology historically used in diesel turbos because of the heat issues.

I am running 2.5 in. IC piping. Rossman, your IC is fine. I poured over Bell's book prior to my IC selection. I wanted to run the same style IC as Austin, but did not want to modify the front support. My IATs are around 100 degrees with my setup. You will have to cut the front for clearance with Austin's old setup. He was running a smaller compressor as well (04B). He did not have to use a 1/2 in. spacer for the turbo. This is why you really need the engine in the car. What looks like it may work out of the car presents challenges once in the car.

Relative thermal efficiency is the same regardless of your altitude. You will still only see a small increase in power. I found the article again: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0311_phr_compression_ratio_tech/index.html

rossman, all pyro is talking about is the same setup as I have. I can clear the steering shaft fine, but it is a very close fit.

Moby, there is a great article by Hot Rod magazine that has a table that shows the increase in efficiency, and hence power, of various CRs versus you starting CR. The OP stated his goal of more power using a higher CR and less boost. This is counter intuitive.

A few issues I see: 1) Throttle cable. Your IC piping is right in the way of the usual alignment. 2) Upper radiator hose. You'll have to keep your IC piping elevated until it clears the hose most likely. 3) You are increasing the number of bends in the piping. Each bend is a pressure loss (though not significant, they are a pressure loss and are cumulative). 4) Big issue. Clearance. Your 90 degree silicone boost is right next to the driver side strut tower. You may not have the clearance. I know my setup was VERY tight with 2.5" piping. You should really configure your IC piping with the engine IN the car.

Boost over compression. If your turbo was taking forever to spool, was your tune correct? Turbine selection? Were you trying to boost outside of the boost threshold? I hit 22 psi of boost by 3200 rpm with a T03/04E 50 trim turbo. It all really depends on your goals, whether you will run race gas, E85, methanol injection, or just pump gas. The power differential between a low compression motor (say 7.4) and a high compression motor (say 10) is not that significant off-boost. I have absolutely no problem with off-boost response with my setup. Increasing compression is not the way to make more power with less boost. You need to increase the airflow to the engine though headwork, intake work, etc.

Sometimes mine will actually go past 18, but 90% of the time it will peg at 18.

Jeff, I used Innovates G3 gauge: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/g3_gauge.php You can pickup the gauge itself for $99 and it is intended for use with the LC-1. They have other styles now (G2 through G5). When I picked mine up, they only had the G2 and G3 gauges.

I was thinking more along the lines of the charge and discharge times. The LS1 coil has to discharge more current than the Yukon coil and therefore would have a longer discharge time. Once discharged, it would then charge more current and consequently have a longer charge time.

Pete, I am not familiar with scopes, but on your tests showing the minimum charge time it appears that the LS1 coil is charging to a higher state than the Yukon coil. I am looking a the hash mark closest to the peak and for the LS1 coil it is 1.5 hashes above the x-axis whereas the Yukon coil is less than 1 hash above the x-axis. Assuming they both started at the same origin. Could it be that the LS1 coil is storing more charge than the Yukon? This would impact its charge and discharge times. You can see this affect in your discharge plots. The LS1 coil looks like it is starting at a higher charge state if you compare the hash marks again.

I think the car looks fantastic. Very nice attention to detail. While the wheels are large, they do compliment the overall theme of the car. I love the color and the integration of the ZGs into the lower valence/rockers. The tail lights are a nice touch as well. Overall, very well executed. The owner had a look, a theme, in mind and kept with it all the way through the build.

You can find the coils for $75 on ebay for a set of 8 which is what I paid about 1.5 years ago for them.

Does this help Ron: http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/s13faq/180sx%20blacktop%20ECU%20harness.pdf

Or the $2 Home Depot version: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137235&highlight=alternator+bracket

Um, yes? Check out my, RTz and Hughdogz setups. All of us are running sequential setups.

The beautiful thing about Wolf is its flexibility. I've got it controlling more things than I can remember now!

We finally get to see the finished product! I know that you were talking about mounting them to the valve cover, but for the life of me could not figure out how (without modifying the cover itself). Looks good!

Courtesy Nissan for the speedo pinion http://www.courtesyparts.com MSA for the battery hold down http://www.motorsportauto.com

gumbajv, on the off chance you respond to this thread, what are the inputs for the Porsche gauges? I am assuming that the tach just uses a modern tach pulse signal. The fuel gauge, temperature gauge and oil pressure (?) gauge will all have their own input requirements. Is the fuel gauge resistance based and if so, do you know the empty and full values? Oil pressure and engine temperature sensors are easy to install, well, for most members on this site.