datman

Hi guys I have just fitted an lm-1 unit to my 240z. i'm not too sure on the readings i'm getting. has anyone here used one and got stable a:f readings? here are the details of my engine and the log for a quick run i did last night. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5086 I've yet to connect the rpm sensor, should get that done today. any comments would be much appreciated. thanks

I just fixed the loud clunk on my car, it would clunk as I backed on and off the power and from going forward to reverse. It was the 2 nuts that bolt the Diff to the Moustache bar, once they were done up really tight the clunking stopped, took me months to figure that out

Yeah VCA is part of our DOT, The guy there toldme all wheels used on the UK public highways must have a safety mark which over here is an "e" marking. Now this can easily be done with a stamp so its worth checking what the USA safety regs are. You may find he is breaking the law by selling them to you. He will try and say that customs wheels don't need markings but that is only true for wheels used on the track. Just checked image website, lookslike they have changed recently primadonna z, so whats up with your wheels?

Hi Guys Those are my wheels, my UK name is twoforty Mike how did you know I have ADHD ?? right what was I saying? Apparently this guy has the centres made by a company in the UK, buys the rims and bolts from another source and puts them together in his garage. He is very sensistive about safety markings, if you want your money back just mention they are not legal to use on the roads in the US without the correct markings...this is probably true anyway. Oh and record your phone calls like I did, make sure you ask him some tricky questions . If you want a decent wheel from the UK you ould try Image wheels, they make a similar wheel. Let me know how you get on, good luck!

heres mine http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d39/golfg60gti/?action=view&current=frontz.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch2

Nice one olderthanme, looks like the dam I am about to fit to my ca, except I don't have the air vents here is a shot of it before it was repainted http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d39/golfg60gti/?action=view&current=PICT0006.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch1

J. Soileau , Its a regular Uk lower fibreglass spoiler from a 240 or 260z, I am actually removing it for a deeper/wider type. I do like the look and will probably make corner bumpers and a custom grill to go with the new spoiler http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d39/golfg60gti/?action=view&current=frontz.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch1

On mine larger OD tube was used and machined down to fit in the hub. My dampers are aluminium so are probaby a bit larger diameter than steel ones. The dampers fit down to the bottom of the tube/hub. Stainless tubes could be made also

On mine larger OD tube was used and machined down to fit in the hub. My dampers are aluminium so are probaby a bit larger diameter than steel ones. The dampers fit down to the bottom of the tube/hub. Stainless tubes could be made also

yep thats the one! I ended up using the old rubber bush on one side and the new urethane bush on the side under compresion. I know a few people that have had rods snap when using new urethane bushes on sides

Justin If you like I can get you a cost on the threaded tubes only, like my ones you have shown in the pics above. They would come with collars and gland nuts. You would need to find someone good at welding to fit them to the hubs, I think the guy that welded mine used 2 methods to get a good weld.

Justin If you like I can get you a cost on the threaded tubes only, like my ones you have shown in the pics above. They would come with collars and gland nuts. You would need to find someone good at welding to fit them to the hubs, I think the guy that welded mine used 2 methods to get a good weld.

I had to cut my front spoiler too, I also slice a bit of the tie rod bush just to pull it back a few mm

maybe someone has put his front control arms in the wrong side...so the thick part of the bush is facing forwards, that or the tie rod has no bush fitted and its pulling the wheel back, I doubt it though. Front wheels do look way too far back, rears look fine

replaced mine, its very easy, you have to pry out 4 cir clips from the ends of each joint and then hit the caps out. They can be in very tight. There are a few cars that share the same joint...I think the small suzuki jeeps use them.

After messin with my rear springs this weekend my clunk came back!! It turned out to be the halfshaft to stub axle flange bolts not quite tight enough.....cranked them up nice and tight and its all quiet again.

you can jack the car up, run the engine and engage 5th gear, hold one wheel and see if the vibration is coming from the other side or it could be the prop has been put back on in the wrong position. Be careful you have the car on stands....would be messy if it hit the floor doing 70:shock:

yep mine did the same at anything over 70mph

I just wrote a very long post on this knocking noise but it seems to gone I fixed my knocking by cleaning all the faces of the half shafts, use a file to make sure there are no high spots and fit new bolts and nuts. I also fitted new rear wheel bearings and torqued to 200lb/ft although the old bearings seem to be fine I'd heard of them causing stramnge noises also check there is no play between the brake drum and the wheel studs, I could move my drum a few mm and hold the half shaft still because the holes had enlarged.I'd also clean the face of the drum and the back of the wheel to ensure there is no slip. before all this I changed the half shaft joints....no change changed the diff...no change bushes...no change.

I was talking $ for you guys, here it cost around £1500 for the 4 wheels and anorther 500 for the tyres. They make them to any offset you want. If I was to do it again I would go -13 front and rear as the rears stick out a little too much

Man you live on a dangerous and busy road? I was biting my lower lip watching oncoming traffic. That was a very quiet time, its always a gamble pulling out of my drive. Last year 16 cars went inot the field or into my garden in the space of 3 months...always after a rain shower! Beautiful car!! Thnaks Who installed the aftermarket sunroof? I don't know but I can't stand it, Im going to remove to sunroof and fitting and glue a carbon fibre skin over the top Yasin

Yeah I did notice, bad earth connection somewhere but thats the least of my problems right now:wink: Wheel size I went for 17" x 9.5" with negative 19mm offset rear and 17"x9" with negative 13mm offset front tyres are pirelli pzero rosso 255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front. Plenty of room behind the wheels with the 2 1/4 springs fitted. wheel were made by superlite wheels here in the UK, 3 piece split rims...they are actually made to the wrong spec so after a lot of complaining they are makig me a new set while I use these. I asked for 9.5 and 9" to get a deep dish, they ended up using 3" outer rims and larger inner rims with a 70mm deep centre boss to get the offset right:evil: they are nopw making them with 5" outers and a centre thickness of 30mm....more like it! when you spend $2500 on a set of wheels you want them right..right? I also fitted anice rear disc conversion, here is a shot

Cool videos Big Phil, Very Mad Max looking!

Actually its you guys on the wrong side of the road! LOL Engine wise I have an L28 with a skimmed, ported and polished N42 head, uprated valves and springs, fast road cam, tripple DCOE weber carbs, 6 branch manifold, electronic ignition. Probably somewhere near 220BHP not been on the RR yet. The suspension was custom made, all the strut tubes were removed and replaced with new steel tubes that have thread all the way to the top (great for changing spring lengths) Race dampers custom made by Protech (fully adjustable) Struts were shortened a fair amount so Ive ended up with the thicker 260 top mounts to get the dampers in thier working range. I also replaced all the bushes with urethane, and fitted 200lb 12" front and 250lb 10" rear 2.1/4" springs.....after test driving I have found the springs to way too stiff so I'm going to try 140 front and 160 rear.