datman

Ah I see, ok so how does 8 sq inches flow the same as a 1 1/2 " pipe? I will email the seller and explain all this to him, I just want to know what I'm talking about first

so once you have the core size how do you figure out how many bars there are and the dimensions of each bar to figure out the exact internal flow?

Ok thanks, surely if the core is 24"l x12"h x3"w the area of half the core would be 24l x 6h x 1.5w=216 square inches? or am i missing something here?

Also on the IC air cooling, as my car is for road use only surely most of the time spent is a part throttle, this being the case the IC I have will probably be as good as any.

Did you seal between the IC and the Rad? around the edges that is? is it better to fill the holes in the rad support panel to force more air through the IC/Rad Cold air intake....yes I want the filter out of the engine bay if poss.

Thanks for the info guys, I will give it a go and see how the air temp looks. I won't be running massive boost pressures. So where do you guys mount your Fan/fans?

It cost £130....roughly $$250 and seems like very good quality

Ok I looked inside and the cores are split, there is a divide half way between the inlet and the outlet so the air will have to pass all the way through and back. Here are the specs The THS Type 14 Intercooler is a large sized intercooler that has the inlet and outlet situated at the same end. This makes it easier to fit to cars that may have a standard side mount intercooler. It has a core size of 600x300x76mm. Specifications Volume 13680cm2 Core size = 600 x 300 x 76 mm Inlet/Outlet diameter = 76mm (approx 3") Core construction = Plate and Bar Length between Inlet/Outlet and opposite tank = 790mm Distance between inlet outlet pipes = 74mm Tested to 5 Bar Cast aluminium end tanks Suitable for applications up to 650bhp

Bought this cooler from ebay....good price, 600 x 300 x 75 with 76mm inlet and outlet. same side intake/outlet. just a mock up to see how it fits. Is it best t keep the IC and the rad apart by a few inches? fan between the 2?

I was going to use the word bulb but thought you guys called them lamps a 12v bulb from a car brake light or indicator will do.

Yeah too true, Ever see a Jag without electrical issues? Lucas also supplied parts for planes!!!!

If you look at post #46 Z-ya explains how to do it. You need to connect a 10k resistor or similar to the gate pin and the other end of the resistor to +12 this will allow currrent to flow across the drain and source, if you place a lamp where the valve would usually be you should see it light up...if you had the MS connected and controlling it you would see the lamp change brightness depending on the voltage applied to the gate pin. Make sure you disconnect the FET from the MS before you start connecting pullup resistors to the gate pin

You could place a 12v lamp in place of the valve for testing just to see what's going on, as Z-ya mentioned try a pullup on the gate to control the lamp

Z-ya, look at the last page of the pdf...page 8, top right image shows pin numbers 1 to 4 4 being case. I must admit they could have made it far easier by showing pin numbers on the top page.

You can mount the FET with an insulator to stop it shorting the drain output to ground. Connect pin 3 (source) to ground, pin 2 (drain) to the valve and pin 1(gate) to the output from the MS.

I've got a 0.6mm nismo gasket and it was all steel covered in rubber. Looks like you were given the wrong gasket

Thanks, bought them off ebay as Supra injectors...part number tie up as 440cc. I guess some supra's here in the UK used side feed

I have these 440cc supra injectors....I've not used them before but it looks like they have the case missing from the center.

Ok phil I'll sort some out for you if you want some amber ones.....I would need to fit my amber ones for the MOT (Inspection)

I prefer 240z with red turn signals.....probably because all Z's here have amber ones. Also better without the side repeaters front and back

Thanks Phil, I about 3 months away from finishing...I have an identical setup to you so it should save me a lot of time. Great stuff! About time you uploaded another video

The HE351 needs a PWM signal to control the boost, so yes it should work fine. I'm going to use a similar setup to control mny holset.