Mike C

Cool. Let me know how it goes! I just finished reading my book this afternoon. One of the best $10 I've ever spent. Confirmed a few beliefs of my own and made me think a little harder on others, specifically 1.6 rockers where he agrees they are really only useful on the intake side, but he makes a case for longer duration on the exhuast in some cases, but I'm still a square pattern guy! LCA vs. displacement is quite interesting. Pete, did you see the post on different Holleys in the carb section? Interesting footnote to the discussion on vac vs. DP as well as CFM.

Cool! They look much better in your picture than theirs! I really like mine and the 205 55 16's a LOT. Can't wait to seem them on your car!

1967 was the first year of the 350, and it was only in the Camaro. On the passenger side front of the cylinder deck, there should be a serial number and a letter code. If the letter code is 2 digits, it is a pre-1970 motor. If it is three letters, it is a 1970 or later motor. If dipstick is passengers side, it is a post 1977 motor. The letter code can be de-coded at www.nastyz28.com

TimZ, Fortunately for us, it won't be lonely there!

Because the new clutch dis is thicker than the one you replaced, the length of travel of the pedal before release has been reduced. I don't think there is any adjustment to the GM hydraulic linkage. Drive it for a couple of days and see if the feel and your comfort improve, then reevaluate.

Would you elaborate on that some? Maybe I just don't understand what we are talking about. The 84-96 Corvette design is a 4 link. (The 63-82 is a 3 link, using a trailing arm instead of the radius rods.) With two radius rods running forward, a camber adjustment rod and the halfshaft. The halfshafts are a stressed member of the driveline. The stubs that go into the diff case are setup using an assortment of circlips that are parallel ground. This establishes a minimum end play since the halfshaft is a locater. If this is increased, the car will wander and have vague steering as well as a tendency to torque steer. I broke one of these in my '84 Corvette and it randomly wanted to change lanes. Also becasue the halfshaft is a locator, a broken one can cause the car to crash. Same with the old Jag IRS. That is why NHRA outlawed IRS in cars faster than 10.99. The Nissan design is better. if not stronger, in the sense that steering control will not be compromised if a halfshaft breaks.

Scottie GNZ's is complete. With a 1000# less weight than the Corvette, bearings should last almost forever.

Should be exactly the same.

In answering a guys question on another board, I found this Excel sheet that lets you program in data and change it for your effective tire radius, trans gearing, and rear axle gearing. quite useful, and saved to my disk! http://zbh.com/lynn/math/gears.xls

Like Ross says, they will pop out with a little pry-bar action. I pulled enough I actually made a puller. It is a 3" angle about 4" long. I drilled holes that cover three of the stub bolts, then welded a nut in the middle that connects to my slide hammer. Finger tighten 3 nuts, and one jerk, and it's off. If you do have to pull the stub axles as well, the slide hammer is the ONLY way to go.

Marvel mystery oil is a great place to start. With all of the plugs out and after applying the MMO, I would rotate the motor over slowly by hand. Priming the oil pump is imperitive IMO. This motor will be DRY having sat for 10 years. If it is a performance engine it might be wise to take the extra time of removing the intake and lifters and applying assembly lube again (do not mix them up, wise to do 1 at a time). How much risk vs. how much work are you willing to undertake? A little more work now means less later. Clean and rebuild the carb. IME, the only way to do this right is soak it in Berryman B9 chem-dip. Whatever you do, DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE ON BAD GAS! Believe it or not, chances are quite high that if you get it running on varnished gas, after shut down one or more valves may stick open. I always believed this was an old wives tale, but I can now document at least 4 instances this has happened. 1 car, 1 boat (V8), 1 go-cart and a twin cylinder RV generator.

Hydraulic roller cams (or mechanical for that matter) require some sort of retainer or thrust control. On OEM rollers, the block is machined for a retainer. On aftermarket setups, a thrust washer behind a modified timing chain, and a "button" (either roller bearing or just nylon/bronze) clearanced to the timing chain cover. On a flat tappet cam, the curved surface of the bottom of the lifters naturally keeps the cam from walking fore and aft.I think this is the case on non-roller cam fords as well, but I don't remember... Carroll is correct on cam journal plug. Use sealer in case hole or plug is not perfectly concentric. Usually this is installed by the machine shop when they do cam bearings and the other freeze plugs.

There are discrepancies. I believe that 12 mm ring gear bolts started around the time of the 280ZX turbo of '83, and that all 84 and up R200s should be 12 mm. Some people say only 87 and up but I am pretty sure that is wrong. I have an 85 300zx turbo r200 diff I have not pulled the cover off of yet, but I will to confirm this argument one way or the other if you want.

Is your goal just to be different? The popularity of the V8 Z was originally due to its impressive performance and low cost. A SBC swap with alumium heads, intake, water pump and light steel headers, has near 50/50 if not 49/51 weight bias. The Jag V12 and the 928 (at least the 2 valve motor) have neither impressive performance nor low cost. Ever wonder why there are so many SBC powered Jaguars? It costs more to rebuild the V12 than it does to buy 2 or 3 NEW small blocks. If you are dead set on a V8 Z with a rear trans-axle, why not a C5 corvette LS6 and 6 speed transaxle? I'm with these other guys in you aren't just barking up the wrong tree, but in the wrong forest

Slanting the engine will require mods to the oil pump pickup for whatever new angle in addition to bellhousing mods. The 4.2 is interesting in that it is large displacment and crossflow, but I think you are barking up the wrong tree. It qualifies as a swap candidate IMO only because you might find lots of them cheap in the boneyard. No need to re-invent the wheel here. For a turbo inliner, I would do a skyline or supra motor rather than the chebbie SUV powerplant. Custom cams, etc. would eat your lunch. Chrysler had a REALLY tilted engine, the slant six, in the 60's and 70's and it was as reliable as a hammer.Once you have an L6 out on a stand, you realize it is slightly tilted as well. One of the L6 books (either hot rodding or how to race, I forget) has a picture of a IMSA GTU ZX motor that has been tilted over quite a bit.

Glad to be of assistance. I got mine in the mail today.

It is a general way of classifying heads, but there is some science to it. With GM heads, there are two different combustion chamber designs, the open (76cc) and closed (64cc) [note this is all based on old stuff as you have 58cc heads for 305's and L98 aluminum heads and some variations as well.] David Vizard says all things being equal, the closed chamber is worth 20 hp. Remember, all of this is in discussing GM production heads. Limited production (Bow Tie) and aftermarket heads throw out all of the rules. If you have bought all of your parts, I would have the dome knocked off the pistons (the difference between the 1970 and 1971 LT-1s) and have the heads angle milled and the intake re-aligned to achieve whatever compression is your goal.

This is a transgression of sorts, specifically back to Pete P looking for advice on carb. My thoughts have always leaned towards big double pumpers (not Dominators, however) and this tests results mostly confirm my observations. This is the summary from the April (April!? Already!?) 2003 Super Chevy where they dyno tested, including optimizing the fuel curve, 12 different Holley carbs. So, if you are on the fence for a carb, or you are just an info junkie like me, maybe this will help. 750 0-4779-8 390 0-8007 570 0-80570 600 0-1850-6 650 0-4777-7 670 0-80670 750 0-3310-5 hp750 0-80528-1 800 0-4780-6 830 0-9381 the only annular boosted carb 850 0-4781-8 hp950 0-80496-1 -Only 3 (850, HP750 and HP950) of the carbs averaged over 400 lb ft, and only the two HP carbs peaked over 430 hp (the 4779 was close at 399 avg torque and 429 hp-best bang for the $ IMO and probably within the dynos margin of error could have been over.) -The HP950 made more torque at 2500 rpm than any other carb with the 650dp right behind it. -The 650 and 750 dp carbs tied for most torque and hp at 3500 rpm. -The 750 vac had the lowest mid-range figures of any carb -Peak torque occurred between 4100 and 4300 rpm and peak hp between 5400 and 5700 rpm with EVERY carb. -Average power tells the whole story, and the two hp carbs made more average power than any other carb. (As noted above, however, the 750 dp was CLOSE and it has a choke for street driving.) Please forgive my parenthetic insertions p.62 of the mag has the complete dyno chart for every carb.

I guess it depends on the manf. of the head and the piston, but the 70 LT-1 350 had .100 dome pistons and the closed chamber (64-68cc heads) Were these AFRs?

David Vizards, "How to build and modify SBC cams and valvetrains" is on sale for $9.18 at motorbooks right now. http://www.motorbooks.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/mbi.woa/72/wo/dK3c3Lt0ErIk3q6W M902eAaa5jo/31.8.0.1.4.3

Go to www.motorbooks.com and buy the Performance Welding book by Richard Finch. I am not a trained expert, but me thinks your welding instructor may not have all of the facts. Just about everything that is welded in a production environment is MIG welded. It is fast, cheap, strong, and VERY effective. It is also difficult in the sense that picking the right wire and gas for the job can make a big difference in weld quality and strength. Roll cages, frames, bodies, all are highly stressed and all have been/can/will be assembled by MIG welding. Almost all trailers are MIG welded as well as engine hoists and stands. Don't blow your wad too soon on a welder until you are sure what you want it for. I used a Century 145 (230v) for 5 years with excellent results. I started working with some heavier gauge metals and doing longer welds, so I sold it and upgraded to the Century 250 amp welder. 100% duty cycle at 160amps IME, you will want a 230v machine for most jobs other than sheet metal or you really need the portablility of a 110 machine. Your instructor may have made his statements based on flux cored welding or because the machine in discussion was not capable of sufficient output. Or he is completely wrong and maybe you should change classes?

I have noticed a similar conspiracy with ratcheting box end wrenches. None of the reasonably priced sets come with an 11/16". Funny how 11/16" seems to be the one I'm always needing....

IME, the line will be too small. You will need a minimum of a 3/8" feed line for 450 hp. My Holley red pump cannot keep up with my 355 using the 3/8 line, so plan on an expensive pump using an engine mounted regulator for best results.

gated shifters look trick, but almost every road test I have seen dogged 'em for difficulty. Obviously, with an internal gated shifter it is nothing but cosmetic, so if you build one make sure you leave sufficient clearance that as soon as the handle clears the internal gates that it is not hampered by the cosmetic gate or shifting quality and speed may suffer.

As noted above, it all depends on your welder and your experience. The type and thickness of metal you are welding will dictate the wire diameter and type of shielding gas. Your instructor may know more about your setup than we do, but MIG welding is very effective. Penetration can be controlled depending on heat setting and shielding gas chosen. Once your class is done, you'll know all about it! In the mean time, get some practice building a BBQ!