Mike C

You are stuck with a 153 tooth flywheel and 10.5" clutch, but it will work. Lots of stuff on T5 in either this board or driveline board so search and see what you uncover.

I have not taken apart a Nissan diff completely, but I have setup over 20 GM 10/12 bolt diffs using my T&D Machine pinion depth gauge, and probably 10 more "eyeballing" it. They use a cast iron shim on either side. That is why you must purchase the aftermarket shim set in order to adjust backlash. The cast iron one is obviously fixed width. Sometimes you can swap side to side, other times you cannot. Sometimes they break, or rumor has it. I have added an LSD without changing the gear set like you want to do, and just pulled the old one out and dropped the new one in using GM shims in stock locations. Back lash was within spec. This number varies depending on the gear maker. GM says .005 to .008 while Richmond says .008-.012. Depending on the vehicles usage determines that. I like .002 for a drag-only vehicle. .005 is good for GM gears. Motiv and Precision Gear have similar but slightly different specs. I think I have a Nissan service manual that has specs for the r200 if you need them.

Most likely you can swap with no ill effects. I did it a couple of times with no problem before I really knew anything about the setup of diffs. Even used ring gear spacers a couple of times. But I would get a cheap dial indicator and mag base to check backlash. These guys have a base and indicator on sale for about $25 usually http://www.mscdirect.com/IWCatSectionView.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=2000409 If it is within spec, go with it. If not, adjust with a universal shim kit, ~$15 from a local diff company. I would have no qualms about running a mild steel tubing sleeve on the bolts in my car. But if you were concerned, talk to Quaiffe, as their diff works with either bolt size so I assume that it comes with reducers rather than being double drilled 10mm/12mm. Tell them you lost yours after buying the $1200 diff.

Depends on what year manual trans you have and what motor it was originally behind. Check out the bottom of this chart to see where your trans falls. If you are not sure, you can go to www.gearzone.net and plug in the number to decode. The TH700 were all .70 OD. http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/calculations.shtml

The crank trigger itself will be fine for street use. Depending on whether you drive it as an all-weather car you may want to put a debris shield under the balancer. It will trigger any of the 6, 7, or 8 series MSD. The 7 and 8 are NOT suited for street duty, however. Drag race only. I would look into one of the units with a built in advance curve for street driving. The crank trigger with regular 6 series (T,A,AL,Offroad) will be at full advance always. MSD sells a book that shows how to wire up all of their CDI as well as some of the peripherals. Highly recommended for any MSD installation. I bought mine 15 years ago and still refer to it regularly.

Are you sure it is the rearend and not the transmission? Nissan trans seem to blow up and/or whine at a rate 10 times higher than the rear diff. Since you didn't say what drivetrain is in your car, just a guess.

Like DAW said. You can still get the 10mm NISMO LSD, but at $900, I'd go ahead and pony up another $300 for the Quaiffe. At either of those prices it appears to be a "money is no object" scenario. Let me know if you find another.

Yes. You will have to adjust backlash on the ring gear, but that can be done with a universal shim kit for a 7 1/2"-7 5/8" GM shim kit in my estimation. If you can get some 12mm od tubing with 1mm wall thickness, it can be cut to make bolt sleeves allowing the 10mm bolts to work in the 12mm case.

The 280H and 282S made within two hp of each other. Not worth mentioning. Vizards book will lay out for you how to read the cam card and explain idle. Using that you should be able to extrapolate your combo. He recommends 107 LSA for a 350 ci motor, and say 110 for a 302 and 110 for a 406. If I had to "guess" on idle quality, I would say the narrower LSA would idle about like a 284 duration cam. That 272 cam you mention might be just the ticket. IME idle would be no worse than the 280 cam. Are you running a manual transmission? If so, all should be fine. The Nissan Power booster doesn't need much vacuum relative to some other cars. I had a 284/228@.050 .480 on 112 LSA in my 331 in my Camaro years ago, and it just never ran like I thought it should. (14.10 at 100 mph in 3500# car) it now resides in my Jimmy with a 266 210@ .050 .440 cam, and I would bet the increased low and mid range torque would put the Camaro in the high 13's now. Noted as a lesson learned, that cam was completely wrong for that motor. My buddies 331 with the 280H ran 13.30's with pretty much the same setup except 4 speed and 3.73 instead of 3000 rpm converter and 4.10s in my car. Admittedly the 280H has a little more .050 duration, but the 110 LSA worked really well in his car.

I agree with you that the 240 dash is great, but I have the dash cap on my car, and in no way does it change the appearance of the dash. Well, except to get rid of the unsightly cracks! Well worth $50 that it costs. Just don't force it on and smash the ammeter needle with the gauge face like the previous owner did in my car.

The Vizard cam & valvetrain book uses the 280H, 282S, and 280SR as comparison cams. What he said about the 280SR was that it had the idle of a 275 hydraulic and the power of a 285. Figure the 282 has slightly longer advertised at a smaller lash figure (.020 for the 280SR) and using 278-280 advertised should get you real close, say 279. Book is very interesting reading, and I have recommended the 282S as a better choice than the 280H, but if you believe his dyno numbers, the only gains come at the extreme ends of the dyno scale. The 110 deg lobe center also hurts power output but improves the idle. My new favorite street cam is the Isky 280 Megacam with 280/280 232/232 .485/.485 on 108 LC. Use 1.6 rockers only on the intake for max power output.

I agree with Tim on this. My former employer married a "Russian Bride" who he met through a service. She is very attractive and very smart (just finished her law degree at UT law.)and they seem happy. Like anything else, somethimes you can get lucky while other times... Probably won't be anyworse off than he would be with women he met here...

http://www.tdperformance.com/TDperfrm.html Hamburger oil pans. They show claimer or roundy pounder, but one of the 7" deep pans with baffles, scrapers, and trap doors was shown as road race in the Summit catalog. They are not kickout so will work with just about any header and the 7" depth should provide plenty of ground clearance. Check your SUmmit catalog or give them a call as T&D says more info available in full line catalog concerning restrictions.

It could be done, but why waste energy re-inventing the wheel when you could just buy a 63-82 Corvette cast iron Dana center? Or for that matter, an 84-96 aluminum center section? Have custom halfshafts made with the 'vette inner and Nissan outer. Except for gear availability, the Nissan stuff seems pretty stout... EDIT: After thinking about it some more, there is the Ford IRS center from the T-bird or Mustang Cobra, and even the new Explorer and Expedition.

Dart SR torquers for your intake, but depending on your cam, the GM Vortec heads might be cheaper even after having to buy a new intake and self-aligning rockers. Probably have to import SRs, but Vortecs could be had at a GM dealer.

There has been some additions to the post. The AFRs were the factory CNC, but the Vortecs had been modified. Still intersting. The AFR 195 appears to be a better head? Maybe their testing was bogus. As with anything on the 'net, "Your mileage may vary." I had already made up my mind to go Vortecs on the motor planned for my Jimmy, and still they seem to be best bang for the $. Especially if you haven't already bought an intake and rocker arms.

Pretty sure the PG is the Nissan is the NISMO. All made by Tochigi Fuji. I have tried to get one for months now. Vendors have a tough time getting them from TF. It may be that the Cal Mini Xterra front diff will work in the 12mm r200 rear, or the 10mm if you can get some reducer spacers made. Also made by TF. It is "only" $449, which is better than everybody else, especially NISMO. Reider Racing wanted $519, but couldn't get it. Actually, they called me and said they had one, I ordered it, and they called back and said "Sorry, they were all spoken for that we just received, but you are next on the list." The backorder list, that is. Been six months now at least and no phone call. Cal Mini has it on their web page, but they had none in stock when I called. Don't know if Nissan has listed the limited slip front as a dealer part. At last inquiry they had not. The Quaiffe is really cool, but I can't stomach paying as much for the diff as my car cost.

The 383 crank is externally balanced. It requires a harmonic balancer from a SBC 400 and flywheel as well. Don't drive it anymore until you get the correct parts, you will tear up the bearings.

Check this post out from another board I do. QUITE interesting.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php3?s=&threadid=38793

Even better than Tim's suggestion is a dedicated flywheel turner. Pick one up from the tool truck or I know Harbor freight has them. Most parts stores as well. If you loosen the belts and pull the plugs, most likely you can push the flywheel by hand and rotate the engine.

You have to grind the edge of the rod and bolt head on two of the rods. 4 & 6? I don't remember for sure. If you have any books on hot rodding SBC, this is usually covered and pictured.

I would get the Centerforce II even though it is more money. I am very happy with my 11" one in the Camaro, and bought a CFII for my L28 w/turbo flywheel. My experience with CFI is not quite as good. The two I have had have not held up any better than auto parts store clutch. The WC T5 for V8's uses a 26 spline clutch.

I was making an assumption that he didn't want to take apart and twiddle his new carb but just screw it on and go. If you don't mind modifying, you can tune the Q-jet to whatever performance level you desire. They run really well on the street with excellent manners, drivability and startup. They will be down slightly on max power compared to a Holley, say 750 double pumper. The 216 @ .050 cam should be good to about 5000-5500 rpm or so. On a similar note, I had an old Energizer 284 (228 @ .050 and 112 LCA-a real POS in hindsight) in my 331 in my camaro. It ran low 14's and pulled about 6200 rpm. Same motor is in my Jimmy now with an Energizer 266 (210@.050 110 LCA)and pulls about 4500 rpm. I guarantee it would be faster now in my Camaro than it was with the big cam. So regardless of what you decide, make sure you optimize everything for what you want to do or for the parts you already have. Especially cylinder heads. With stock heads and 1.94/1.5 valves, don't bother spinning it more than 5500 rpm and seek to maximize low speed torque. Not only will it be cheaper, it will be more reliable, and I'm willing to bet faster.

If the assembly was balanced to the current balancer, just have the new one balanced to match the old one. Check out these CAT balancers. The SFI steel one is less than $100. http://www.catpep.com/Products.htm

You should be able to make both work well on your car. Just be careful with your cam selection. Anything above about 216 deg at .050 may be too much for the carb. The RPM is an excellent manifold for a street car. Smokin' deal, too. I'll give you $200 for the set, what da' ya' say?