Mike C

As noted above, the 750 vac, the 3310, had the WORST midrange torque figures and average topend output. The 1850 is just too small for a performance application IMO. IME, the BEST Holley is the 4779 double pumper. To pat myself on the back, tests bore this out as it was the only non-HP carb to come close to the 430hp peak and 400#/ft average torque numbers. It also lets you run a choke for a street car, which is a real plus if you ever drive in cold/cool weather. I have a Barry Grant modified 4779, the stage III. It flows a peak of 1040cfm but has throttle characteristics of a 750 because they keep the stock venturi and throttle blade size. It has had the choke horn machined off, the venturis polished, downleg boosters, modified air bleeds, and reduced profile throttle shafts installed. They also plug all the exra vacuum fittings which is kind of a hassle. It was stupid expensive at the time (1994 cost was $625, but that seems to be middle-of-the-road now for max output carbs.) This is pre-Demon stuff, as the Demons don't seem to work as well as they Holleys from what I can tell. My S3 runs great, but if I had it to do over again, I'd run the box-stock 4779, or for a MAX effort car (500+ hp) then one of the HP carbs with replaceable airbleeds. Carbs seem to follow the traditional Hot Rodders adage: "You get what you pay for."

I agree with Mudge. The SBC has a very efficient oiling sytem and performs quite well in stock form with good parts. I would buy a Melling oil pump for a Z/28 ('69 302) I believe # is ME55v vs. the standard ME55, but it has been awhile. Definitely replace the oil pump driveshaft with an aftermarket one with a metal collar.

There are 3 busings in the shifter. All can be had for about $6 and replaced in 30 minutes or so. Makes a HUGE difference. Somebody listed a short shifter in their catalog. MSA maybe? Don't remember. I never thought the Z shifter an inordinately long throw. As noted, you can shorten and rethread the stick for a reduced throw at the expense of some shifting effort.

What kills the T5 is shock loads. Don't run slicks, don't dump the clutch, and don't speed shift. Driven like you own it and didn't rent it, the T5 is a fine transmissions. Start doing 5000 rpm clutch dumps with drag radials and speed shifting and it won't live long.

I bought a carbureted intake for my LT1. I actually have two LT1s, but only enough parts to FI one. I plan on getting my car running with the carb and fuel inject it later. Then I'll use the carb intake on the second motor. In 1997 GM built a couple of 302 ci LT1. One in a replica 1967 Z/28 with the carbureted intake and one in a 1997 Z/28 with FI. Both cars had T56. Don't remember the exact details, but the carbureted car made nearly 50hp MORE than the FI car.

I thought about posting that as well zgeezer, but I read and re-read his post and couldn't tell which way he was going!

16x7 requires a 4 1/2" backspacking on a Z with stock springs. Check out some of the posts in the last day or two on Centerline wheels and "Will 17x8 fit my car?"

Well, better late than never, here are the shots of the Eclipse seats, and the Talon seats. Talon seats: Eclipse seats:

HybridZ has sold a lot of Centerline wheels! Wish I hadn't had to pay full price for mine... 17's for less than my 16's would have been too cool!

My car has been smacked on the right rear and when they fixed it they didn't get the quarter completely back out.~ 3/16". I didn't want to roll the lip, so I went 205. Had to roll the lip anyhow, and cracked the filler on the face. I think you will have to roll as well if you run the 225's, but not positive on that. I wish you were closer so we could test fit one of mine on yours. Dunlop D60 A2 205 55 HR 16 from Tire Rack, clearance at $58 each. I really like the height/width of the tire on my car. And the 205 is the perfect width for the 7" rim. With L24 power, also helps to keep the inertial weight down.

To the best of my knowledge, there is nothing to interfere with any GM pans since there is no crossmember underneath the pan. The corvette pan should have a lower, longer sump which would give more ground clearance, but the F body pan will work just fine. Aftermarket pans with increased depth/kickouts cause troubles in some cases.

Cool. I have the 16x7 Aztecs and I really like them. One of the best looking wheels CL made IMO, and it looks like it is discontinued... Can't wait to see some pics with them on your car.

No.

It could be a head gasket, but most likely you are seeing condensation. Do you start and stop the engine without getting it up to operating temp? Are you running a 160 degree thermostat? Getting the oil up to 212 deg F (and subsequently the entire assembly) will keep the engine condensation free. That is what "sludges" a motor up and why short trips are worse for an engine than long trips. Get an oil temp gauge and try and get the temp of the oil above waters boiling point everytime you run it. If you are just jockeying it around the driveway, this can burn lots of gas and foul lots of plugs. But those are reasonably easy to cure problems... If not condensation then leaky intake manifold is more likely than head gasket IME.

Miles covered that well. If you do not use the Camaro bellhousing, you will have to fabricate a mechanical clutch release or use a hydraulic throwout bearing. The T5 also attaches to its bellhousing with some slightly smaller metric bolts. It may require reaming the bolt holes to clear the 5/8" bolts that the Muncie bellhousing requires. If you have to buy a bellhousing and can't find one cheap, it is possible to buy a special one from McLeod (and possibly Lakewood) that uses hydraulic clutch linkage, is drilled for the FORD T5, and comes with a special adapter pilot bearing. Use a GM pressure plate with the Ford disc. SInce you are manufacturing a driveshaft anyhow, makes little difference. As you found out, the Ford T5 is quite common and if you want to go to an aftermarket shifter (highly recommended) it is easy to find used ones for the Ford T5 but not the GM, and they do not interchange.

Backlash is adjusted by shifting the ring gear closer to the pinion to tighten it up or away to loosen it up. It can be done with one piece shims from Nissan or a universal R&P installation kit available from most mail order places. 7.5/7 5/8 GM kit should work nicely. Backlash should never have to be adjusted. Most likely it is not your R&P backlash that needs to be adjusted, but you cooked the spider and/or side gears. (This is most common in high powered/aggressively driven open diff cars. Wheel spin on one side tears up the differential gears but not the ring & pinion.) If the ring and pinion have shifted relative to one another it is most likely because of a bearing failure. New bearings should fix that. As Denny noted, it's usually cheaper to replace yours than repair it, depending on its woes.

"Clanking" noise might be the throwout bearing. Did you grease the bearing retainer? I assume you were running 85w90 before? ATF is of significantly less viscosity and as a result will leak from places that gear oil would not. Could also be you have a higher fluid level now that it is the "right" height or you damaged a seal with the trans out.

You never said if your motor was from a Camaro/Firebird, Corvette, or Caprice/Roadmaster. The F body and 'vette motors will have aluminum heads and be another 40 lbs or so lighter than the iron head motor. And hopefully it is for sure an LT1 and not an L99?

In the David Vizard cam and valvetrain book that is on sale at motorbooks right now, he uses the 280h, 282s and 280sr for comparison purposes. The 280h and 282s made exactly the same power (he didn't say how much), and the 280sr had 10% better flow at peak piston speed on intake stroke, he made no comment on power. I have the 280sr in my 355 with ported iron heads. I guesstimate 365 rwhp as it sends my 3500# car/driver to 12.6's at 110 mph or about 430 at the flywheel. Don't know if this helps you or not. I have recommended the 282s to quite a few people, but after reading Vizard, I would go 280h with 1.6 rockers only on the INTAKE.

Helmetless stunts=dumba$$ But you can always spot a dirtbike trained rider. NEVER lets go of the bars!

Are you sure it is an R200? They will pullout with the slide hammer, quite easily. If it is an r180 (characterized by the flange around the stub bolting on) it will not as it is retained by a bolt. Got a pic?

No. The 168 tooth flywheel will not work using the JTR setback mounts since it relocates the starter outboard. The increased leverage comes at the expense of RPM as well, making for a harder starting engine. I wouldn't worry about it at all as the 12.5" flywheel is plenty sufficient.

Reider Racing told me the diff they had was 82 and up for 12mm ring gear bolts. I'll try and get a bolt out of my '85 diff this week and measure it. Hopefully we can get a more definitive answer.

Over the years, Chevy changed the timing tab location a couple of times. That would be my guess on yours. I don't know of anything that used the 7 1/4' balancer, but there were some 6 1/4, 6 3/4, and at least 2 8" balancers (one 1.25" wide and one 1.50" wide)Generally, if they list a special part for an application, it probably is. Check out these guys for an SFI approved balancer for less than $100. http://www.catpep.com/Products.htm They also have SFI approved flexplates. Flexplate and starter application is dictated by the choice of one or the other. The straight across starter (the Camaro one should be) uses the 153 tooth 'wheel. It is 12.5" across. The 168 tooth 'wheel is 14" across and uses the starter with the staggard bolt pattern.

Read all about Chevy's all new 1967 Camaro SS350 here: http://www.musclecarplanet.com/History/Chevrolet_67.htm