Mike C

One reason the Edelbrock/Carter mech secondary carb is so popular it's a $100 LESS than a Holley. The Holley is easy to tune and rebuild (fortunately since they seem to need it every few years). On a mild street small block (210-220 deg cam duration at .050) I'd run a JET stage II Q-jet. The quadrabog starts easy, idles well, gets good gas mileage, and drop base air cleaners fit easily. If max performance is your game, the 4779 Holley 750 dp is the way to go. Same size throttle blades/venturis as the smaller dp carbs, so you have more tuning options up or dowm. If you have an unusual combo, get one with adjustable air bleeds, but for a common 355-383-406 SBC, it's the way to go IMO. The 331 in my Jimmy has had a worn out Q-jet, two different Holley 600 vac carbs, a 1970 Z/28 780 vac Holley, a 750 vac Holley and the current JET Q-jet. Max power nod goes to the 750 Holley, but drivability of a GOOD Q-jet is amazing. There is a reason they are expensive. They work well and are very high tech compared to a Holley 4 barrel. I have a 750 Carter on my boat and it works well. That is my only experience, but they are the best bang for the $ it seems.

Mark is right on the Optispark problems. If you still want to do this, check out LT1intake.com if shows how to add a distributor so the intake can be used on a conventional coolant flow SBC, but should work on the LT1. I bought a carb intake for my LT1 until I can scrounge the $ for the DFI. One of the beauties of the LT1 for a Datsun swap is that with no distributor through the intake manifold, it is not required to modify the hood latch.

Solid core wires are just that. A stranded solid wire conductor. Suppression core wires are a fiberglass core that is coated with graphite to provide a conductance path for the spark, but they have very high resistance. The spiral core wire is the correct wire to use. In has the RF suppression capability of the suppression core wires but the low resistance of the solid core wire. It is basically a suppression core with a single conductor wound radially through the wire. This keeps resistance down and minimizes the magnetic field created when current flows through the conductor.

You can buy a flattener to add to any color paint. The gloss serves an additional purpose, however. It makes a really smooth tight surface that minimizes the absorption of dirt and stains in the finish. It helps keep your car clean.

Steel is more likely to bend than explode. As far as wear goes, the steel is a more dense material and with the some surfacing/disc I would think it would last longer than the nodular.

All you should need is the mustache bar from a donor r200 car from '75-'78.

I have used Inline Tube for my trucks and '68 Camaro. They make excellent products and if the don't have it, the will duplicate your lines you can send them. This is a great route if you don't want to fab yourself.

That's about right. It was redesigned in 95 and then again slightly in '97 I found from a Google search... My seats came from a '90, but I'm not sure if that was the first year or not, but you are definitely in the ballpark!

Gearing is NOT the same for the 4 speed and the 5 speed. The overall first gear is close with the 33.6 r180 and the 3.54 first gear of the 4 speed and the 3.54 r200 and the 3.32 first gear of the "early" 5 speed. Check out the info on the zhome page. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html I don't even trust the page numbers in a Chilton/Hynes manual...

The main question in my mind is how high are you turning the motor? Anything about 5k rpm or so and I wouldn't even consider the nodular iron 'wheel unless you are running a scattershield. Usually if I decide to buy a part new, I'll go for the best part I can get, ie the steel flywheel. If I have one lying around, I'll use it.

The Muncie disappeared from GM cars in 1974 to be replaced with the Super T10 4 speed. I have spent at least an hour on the net trying to ID the 82 Camaro 4 speed, mostly unsuccessfully. The manual trans was (probably)a Borg Warner T10 4 speed in the V8 car. The 4 banger was probably a Borg Warner T4. I believe it was cable actuated. The T5 showed up in '83 and was also cable actuated. In 1984 the typical hydraulic actuation T5 showed up, then in 1988 it became the World Class T5 and used ATF instead of the 85w90 gear oil of the earlier T5's. A 305 is not a good candidate for a 64cc Vortec heads swap as it drops the compression since the 305 has 58cc chambers. There is a Vortec 305 head with smaller chambers. $1000 for a running driving car isn't bad, but a L69 305 HO and BW 5 speed from an 83-86 would be a better setup. $1000 could potentially score you a TPI motor and trans as well.

Both of these are covered in the JTR manual. You remove the tach and turn a calibration screw in the back and Stealth Conversions sells a speedo cable. Interesting combination you've got. The Chevy V8 T5 is usually more $ than the Ford so it usually goes the other way!

Alos invest in a UniSync to tune the carbs. Get a tuneup book and adjust the carbs correctly. You may want to pull them off and put new gaskets and make sure the floats and needle and seats are OK. Victoria British has carb kits for $15 each. Not the best, but suffiecient for a rebuild.

Should be 3.54 for final drive in the 280's r200. 240's had the 3.36 in their r180. Check out the following link for tranny gear ratios: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html It will also show you which cars had r180's installed and which had r200's and what the ratios were. Good site. Check out how close the Borg Warner trans ratios are to the US spec 4 speed. I can't wait to get mine in my car!

Does it just do it cold or when warm also? Spitting out the carbs is a sign it is running too lean. My air pump would cause the car to pop in the exhaust on deceleration and gear changes, but not to spit out the carbs.

I agree with Grumpy on the 1.6 rocker thing. I am NOT a fan since it is just a crutch for the wrong size cam for the most part. (Although I have a set on the LT1 I just recently acquired, I'll run 'em but wouldn't have bought 'em.)As far as the Bowtie head, I believe they have a raised intake port so check for match with your intake. Also, if the heads have been angle milled rather than just milled, you may have to have your intake cut to match the angle of the heads and prevent air leaks. The 270 cam may be a little wild for the TPI intake you have. Grumpy is correct about a bigger power gain by swapping to a hydraulic roller. With the fuel injection, You may want to specify 114 deg centers instead of 110.

The aluminum are lighter and finned for cooling, but the cast iron will give you better braking and a firmer pedal. I would definitely suggest this as a budget alternative to rear discs. If you are racing you may need the aluminums ability to shed extra heat, but for the streets the iron is best IMO.

No problem converting to a carb. You can buy manifolds from several aftermarket sources for the '87-95 heads with the different angle center bolt valve covers. Too bad it's not a '96 with the Vortec heads!

If you have an L98 with the aluminum heads you should be able to get at least $300 for them. If you have the iron heads, they will work well to hole the door open on the shop...unless you can find somebody who just needs a set of stock replacements which is unlikely as most people want to upgrade.

Impatient, eh? You will need the harness, computer, and the MAF sensor from the newer vehicle. Your other sensors should be OK. I'm going Accel DFI with my $. I have heard that the 93 speed density system is the easiest conversion to do, especially if the motor is mostly stock.

That's 153 tooth flywheel. A 53 toother would be tiny! www.gearzone.net has the billet steel countershaft stabilizer as well as manual trans rebuild parts. If you have never checked that page out, it's pretty good. The "shorty" T5 for Jaguar applications is really cool. Your clutch disc needs to match both the 26 spline input shaft of the T5 and the diameter of the pressure plate on the motor. You may have to take it apart to find out what you have. I assume you have the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing? Also, are you sure it is the trans seal leaking and not the rear main seal on the motor?

McLeod makes a bellhousing that is drilled with the narrow Ford toploader pattern, it is listed in the PAW catalog, so my guess is they have a bushing as well. I have one of those you are talking about Pete, not sure where it is at right now, but came in a box of big block chevy parts I bought over 15 years ago! brand new on the card.

The solid gray ones are easy to find. I have a set of black with the charcoal insert in the middle. They are the seats from the first gen Eclipse/Talon. Here is a shot of my Eclipse seats and a set of Talon seats I had before (which I'll sell FYI)Talon seats are on top. They have a moveable head pad and adjustable thigh support that the Eclipse seats did not. I paid $100 for the pair and will take same plus shipping/packaging. They aren't perfect but are nice overall (few small cigarette burns) I think they are more comfortable than the Eclipse seats, but the don't look as nice IMO.

Matt, try this post in the carb section as well and check out the "Triples, take me to school" post as it has a lot of info on tuning webers.

McLeod and Lakewood make conversion bearings to adapt Ford trans to Chevy engines,PAW is a dealer for both. Not sure about vice-versa. Knowing Ford, they probably changed the bushing size on the 3.8 compared to their V8. Advance Adapters has conversion bellhouisngs and bushings/bearings as well, but once again I'm not sure on your application.