Mike C

Thanks Dan, I knew it was somebody! Your rims look almost just like mine, so I shouldn't have forgot!

I don't know what's up with the markline page, but it's obviously not put up by the manufacturer. I am encouraged by the research I have done so far and I may actually suck it up and buy one when they are available. I'll try to cross ref the manufacturers part # for the Calmini Frontier front with the rear piece from Reider when they are finally available. I am more encouraged as time goes by that these two diffs may be the same. Fingers are crossed as $449 seems a fair price relative to everything else out there.

Anyhow, This is what Calmini had to say: Mike- CALMINI does not offer any parts for the Z cars. All parts that we sell must be tested in the vehicle it is being used for. I am sorry that we could not help you with your search. If you have any further questions, please call the sales office. Thank you for your interest in the CALMINI Nissan line. Best Regards Sales Department CALMINI Products Mfg. www.CALMINI.com Sales Office 800-345-3305 I still think I am going to follow up on this further. I called Reider Racing this morning and spoke to them about the difference in the front r200 in the Frontier with the Z rear. He believed it was 12mm ring gear bolt and it used a different type of stub axle retention involving a bolt but thought it would probably work in the rear since those aren't needed. The Frontier was also a 29 spline unit. Any Nissan factory trained techs out their who could help with this? I just called Calmini and they said they were not available "At this time, 8-12 weeks." I am assuming that this is the same Super Brute diff by Precision Gear. I'm going to email Calmini again and find out if they will tell me who the supplier is so hopefully I can contact them directly. I have now found out the manufacturer is Tochigi-Fuji Industrial Ltd and here is a link to some of the (really cool) products they make: http://www.marklines.com/en/presen/tochigifuji.jsp I cannot find their home page to contact them, however.

Check out www.nothernautoparts.com they have quite a few kits. You should be fine with stock pistons with your power goals, but I put forged pistons in small blocks because longevity is better IMO and with the higher silicon content of TRW pistons, I have had no troubles with piston slap.

While searching for other sources for an r200 LSD I came across this page. http://www.purenissan.com/r200_front_lsd.htm At $449 it is the cheapest new LSD I've found. I emailed them for more info and will post it when I receive it.

What year car were they from? I think the later model 4 lug might be different from the early modey 4 lug, but Ford's aren't my area of expertise.

Couple of areas to research. First is where the headlight harness plugs into the main harness just inside the fender well or in front of the radiator depending on your car. (I've only worked on 240 and 280 so am not sure which a 260 has.) Another is the ground to the frame rail and finally is the riveted connections in the fuse box going to the back of the spring connectors that hold the fuse. Those make more sense than the headlight switch and it's associated connections since you would expect the two lights to behave the same way if it was the switch. I'd put my money on the grounds or front harness plugs being dirty. Also check the fuse itself as they can act weird if they are dirty or corroded.

They do work, but they sound like a mechanical valve train. They are quite loud IMO. If you don't mind the noise and an occasional lash, there is a LOT of horsepower to be had by eliminating the hydraulic lifter valvetrain and going solid. I asked Comp about switching from my mechanical roller to a hydraulic roller and there response was all else being equal, they figured 50 hp. 50!? That was unacceptable as far as I was concerned. Similar gains can be had with a mechanical flat tappet cam compared to a hydraulic flat tappet. FYI, my mechanical roller is litte with 236 @ .050 and .530 net lift

Is this a draw throught or blow through setup? Blow through is extremely difficult because the need to preasure seal the carb by mounting it (or them) in an enclosure. So I will assume it is a draw through. It will be MUCH easier to do this with the single carb rather than the triples, but I have seen a turbo setup that used a pair of SU mounted right next to each other on a home-built intake. IMO you are whizzing uphill into a wind trying to do the turbo thing with a carb. The OEM manufacturers never managed to get carb'ed turbo engines to be much to speak of (think 60's and 70's, even early 80's as turbo cars were real POS usually). EFI and electronic engine controls change this drastically. If I were you, I'd go EFI or wouldn't even waste my time with the turbo thing.

Call Reider and ask, it is available, but they have had trouble getting shipments from the manufacturer. Maybe getting more people on the list would speed things up or make them realize there IS a significant market and they might find some other manufacturers. I received a copy of their printed catalog last week, and it is in there, but like you said not on the web page. It says only for 12mm ring gear bolts, but I'll either get a later model diff or have some sleeves machined.

Centerline makes dual pattern wheels 4 on 4 or 4 on 4.5 that bolt right on a Z. I put 16x7 on my car at $150 each from Summit Racing. I think 8" wide is as far as they will go with the 4 lug setup however, but somebody else had posted a company that would go as wide as 12" for a 4 lug setup, I just can't remember who it was...

The law of diminishing returns seems to apply to small block Chevy's when it comes to displacement. I think you can make as much power building a 406 and not have as many problems with rod/crank/cam clearance. Crank and pistons should be cheaper as well. The slightly shorter stroke should be more tolerant at 11:1 also. My buddy just built a 427 small block for his S10. 550 hp with Victor Jr heads, but it has TOO much cam and TOO much compression IMO as I like to maintain streetability. Chevy high performance built the GM 383 HT and got nearly 500 hp and over 500 lb ft for about $6000. I think you are right to stay 250 or less a .050 on the cam. The trend with turbo V8 is smaller displacement rather than larger. A 327 or 350 is the way to go for forced induction IMO, and all that money you saved on the big stroke/bore parts can be spent on turbos and manifolds. If the motor isn't the killer on your wallet, the mods to the car for those power levels will be! I'm just not a nitrous fan although I have run it on a couple of different cars. It just gets to be a hassle not having the bottle on when you want it, not having a full bottle when you need it, driving all over trying to get it filled, having to re-hydro test the bottle every couple of years, wiring, plumbing, bottle heaters, purge valves, etc. Long term, turbos are probably cheaper, and definitely quieter. Being fast and quiet is cool.

You'd be crazy NOT to buy it. Junkyards usually want at least $500 for a V8 T5. I paid $1275 for an '86 TPI 305/TH700 Trans AM. I pulled the engine, trans, driveshaft, radiator, fans, computer, wiring, and air intake. I sold the rest of the car for $1000. At $500 you should be able to get all of the parts you want AND probably MAKE money! You've got to like that.

I found one but had it sold out from under me. Just to add, the 88 all white cars were viscous equipped and you would have to have custom CV shafts. Not all 87 cars were equipped as it was a running change sometime in the model year. yes, it is hard to find. I've been looking for nearly 3 years. I know I could have one ASAP, but I'm not paying $750+ for a used up diff. I'm on the waiting list for a new one from Reider Racing for about $525.

I think you are SOL. I believe the 93 is a different setup completely and uses a replaceable eprom like the 85-92 TPI cars.

Mechanical secondaries carbs (not all are double pumpers, double pump means two accelerator pumps) do NOT open all of the butterflies at the same time. They have a linkage. Only after reaching a certain point of throttle opening on the primary does the secondary start to open. At that point the linkage accelerates the opening of the secondaries so that at WOT, they are both just that. That is what you call "being into the secondaries". On a vac carb, the vac is only actuated after a certain point of throttle opening. Then the airflow through the priamary venturi (not engine vac) actuates the vac diaphragm which opens the secondaries. Because this is slow and linear, it is not neccessary to have the second accelerator pump which hides the "hole" created by the near instantaneous opening of the secondaries when you "punch it". The bog from most carbs when flooring it is by too LITTLE gas being applied from the accelerator pump and not by too much gas as most people believe. Thus if you are puttering around with a double pumper and stay "out" of the secondaries, it should get the same fuel economy as a vac secondary assuming they have the same size throttle bores, primary jetting, and idle mixture qualities.

You should be able to swap in any r200 to your CV equipped car. Just the input flanges and stubs are different. I THINK and I have no confirmation, that Nissan switched to 12mm bolts in 82. It doesn't seem to be much of an issue since I have heard of no one shearing the ring gear bolts... The 3.36 gear set for the 200 is hard to find. According to my Nismo catalog, their is a 3.15 gear set available as well. The gear set, labor to set it up and bearings will cost you near a $1000. I'd hate to spend all that money and still have a one-legger, so figure spending another $550-1200 for an LSD depending on whether it is from an aftermarket source, Nismo, or a Quaiffe. If you were happy with the one-legger, I'd just get a 3.54 r200 from a junkyard and switch stub axles and bolt it in and go. I'd then try and get the tallest tire I could under the rear to decrease the gear ration. Another advantage of this is a tires contact patch gets disproportionately larger as the tire gets taller compared to gains made in width.

The FI should be able to compensate, especially with tuning. The E88 head will have to be modifed to be compatible, needs to be clearanced for injectors and some extra holes added. Just compare it to your FI head when you get it off.

mid-87 to 89 TURBO ZX should all have LSD, identified by the finned aluminum cover visually, and both tires rotate forward or backward simultaneously if you turn the other. Both autos and sticks had the LSD. The all white 88 limited edition cars had a viscous diff that requires custom half shafts. Your boneyard guy may not know how to ID the rears, or it could be that the 87 was before the LSD was available and somebody broke the 89 and replaced it with a peg-leg.

Yup, these guys are right. The pittance you'll get for it now doesn't compare to the massive outlay you'll wind up forking over to replace it. I have a policy (learned the hard way) of not selling ANYTHING! Not entirely true, I did sell my last Z in order to replace it with a nicer car for the same price but that's the exception! Being injured sucks I hope you're back on your feet soon.

Beautiful! I love yellow also but my wife can't stand it either. I still think the 70-81 Camaro sport mirrors are just about the best mirror I have yet seen on a Z. Similar curves and mount to the door, you can even hook up the cable adjuster.

Reider Racing has one in their catalog and they say it's $525 which is WAY cheaper than any one else, but they have had supplier difficulties AND it's only for 12mm ring gear bolts. I'm on the backorder list for one but who knows how long that will be. I haven't decided if I am going to get a later model r200 with 12mm bolts or if I'm going to have sleeves made for my 10mm r200 that's already paid for.

Eventually big power will tear up all of the single track r200's. When that right rear spins like crazy and the left just sits there, them little spider gears are whirring like a top. This causes heat buildup in the gears themselves and wears grooves into the cross shaft pin as well as possibly working its way loose from vibration. Glad you've got another to get it back together, but would definitely be keeping your eyes open for an LSD.

The 300 CV axles are too wide to fit in earlier cars. I'm pretty sure ALL of the 300's were CV half shafts.

I believe that most Z hubs will fit the spindles, but the spacing is different which will affect which rotors you have to use in order to center on the caliper.