Mike C

You didn't say if you wanted forged or cast, but for off the shelf parts either way, I like nothernautoparts.com or Summit Racing.

The 2+2 ZX cars and the turbo cars in the US got CV joint half shafts. The R200's are all about the same strength, but Nissan switched to 12mm ring gear bolts sometime. I have heard 82 and I have heard 87 but cannot confirm the 82 thing.

I wouldn't waste my time or money on the under-hood filters ($50 each). Get a 5" by 9" filter from Summit for $35 and a 90 degree stainless elbow. Run this through the drivers side vent opening in the core support and connect to the stock Z air cleaner with the internal element removed. I'm running this now and will fab an airbox for my triple Del'Lortos and run same filter. You get a free flowing intake system and the benefit of cooler air from in front of the radiator.

Motorbooks has a great book on tuning Weber and Del'Lorto carbs. It has ballpark jetting figures and it has altitude correction charts. I would buy an Air/Fuel meter from Summit for about $30 and an O2 sensor from the local auto parts store. That's what I have done for mine. Not installed yet, but I hope to swap in the 2.8 motor with triple Del'Lortos in the next couple of weeks and I'll weld the bung in and install the gauge at that time.

Actually, you mean the bellcrank or crossshaft AKA Z-bar. The fork goes in the bellhousing. You can keep hydraulic actuation by using a bellhousing from an 84-89 Corvette that had the 4+3 trans, or you can use your existing mechanical linkage bellhusing if that's what you've got. You will have to get a different flywheel however.

Welcome aboard! The L series motor is a great little engine. It doesn't compare to the 4 valvers like the Supras have, and stock it's not fast, but you've come to the right place! Check out the turbo forum for all sorts of talk about L series turbo motors as well as some other turbo cars.

While a single plane manifold will trim some low speed torque, my guess is someone has also done a cam switch. The cam is the "brain" in the engine telling it when things happen. Intake and exhaust are tuned to work in a specific range and can hurt power output if not right, but they will not change the basic characteristics of the motor. It's always tough working on something else that somebody has monkeyed with. You could pull the cam and hope to find some manufacturers marks to ID the cam you have. Best bet IMO, is buy the cam you want and put it in then you'll know what you've got. For a street motor, I recommend the Crane Energizer 272 which is smaller than most people will suggest but is easy on springs, has a great idle and you can get cam and lifters for less than $100. Expect a redline about 5500 and an easy idle at 750 rpm.

I just mounted a cone filter in front of the rad like the FI guys do. I had a damaged SU manifold that I cut the heat riser off of and connected a hose to my K&N after removing the internal filter. When I swap in my triple Del'Lorto equipped 2.8 I'm going to make an aluminum air box that is connected to the same cone filter.

WOOHOO! Congrats on the car, and I know the wife enjoyed going out on the weekend and not have you working on the car!

MSD makes a good in-cap coil. There are other ones as well, Accel, ProForm, Pertronix. MSD also makes a conversion kit that uses an external coild and a 6A spark box, but I think I would just get the in-cap coil.

The LSD showed up mid 1987 through 1989. They were a clutch type except for the '88 SE limited edition cars that were all white. I've heard different things about what year they switched to the 12mm ring gear bolts. I first heard '82 then I heard '85.

I have a set of split spokes from Centerline. I'm quite pleased, and they are 16x7 and $150 each.

Mine has a spare tire...and a 8" Kicker sub. I cut the hold down bracket out and flipped the spare upside down. You can gain nearly 2" of clearance in the tire that way. Eventually, when I have the tank out, I'll weld a nut to the bottom of the well and use a bolt to hold the tire down. I Then cut a 3/4" piece of MDF to fit the floor and flush mounted the speaker. Their is a 3/4" step in the carpet between the strut towers, but it is virtually undetectable and I get to keep my spare! (Hey, it IS a street car!)

Restrictors keep more oil in the bottom end of the motor. They also reduce windage since less oil flows from the heads back into the sump. They should only be used with roller rockers and mechanical lifter camshafts. I have B&B restrictors in my motor. It has been in my car for 14 years, but probably has only 10-12k miles on the whole setup, but almost all on the street. The vents can be dangerous on a street motor since extra oil runs throught the holes and onto the camshaft. Unless you break something, the screens should never clog since their (theoretcially) shouldn't be anything in the motor to clog them up.

It sure is pretty, but I'm too cheap! HT 383 sets you back about $3500 and that leaves $5000 for a used truck and a dirt bike! Or at least a WICKED paint job.

For a driver you should be quite pleased with that cam. Comp, as well as most other manf, grinds their cams already advanced and designed to be installed straight up so I think that's the way to go.

IMO, yes. You'll make more power with the smaller port since gas flow doesn't have to deal with the step caused by the too small header compared to the port. Also, most flow gains come in the bowl area and from a multi-angle valve job more than increasing port size. Spend your money cleaning up the bowl and chamber and pay for a good 5 angle valve job, or at minimum a 3. Chevy's have such short exhaust ports, most restriction is in the intake.

Cool. Your a dog though! I can't find an LSD anywhere, at least not for less than about $700. I'm now on the back order list at Reider Racing for when and IF they ever get them in. April they said May, May they said June, June they said NEXT month. HA! At least for my $550 the parts are spankin' new. Looking forward to seeing your web site, keep us updated!

I don't know about the quality, but price seems like a smokin' deal. I paid $180 for my Arcan folding hoist, $70 for my Excel 3 leg stand, which is more stable than the cheapie ones, and $29 for the load leveler at a traveling tool sale. That would have been $280 plus tax for the same setup, so at least a 20% discount.

In my experience, the double pumper can make for significantly more low speed torque, at the expense of fuel economy. As long as you don't actuate the secondaries, it uses no more fuel than a vacuum carb with the same size primary throttle bores, booster type, jetting and idle mixture. Lone is correct that a 350 only "needs" about 650 cfm, but they usually run faster with more carb until law of diminishing returns is hit. IMO, this makes the Holley Classic 750 double pumper the ultimate hot rod carb. PS, mine has been tweaked by Barry Grant to flow 1040 cfm with no diminshed throttle response or poor carburetion. My observations have been that this type of carb is more effective than the Demon Carbs that BG sells now instead of their worked over Holleys. Even without a choke housing, the engine starts easier and idles better with their 4 corner idle circuit. (Ran actually, carb is off for a rebuild as 8 years of light usage have caught up with it )

Cold air induction, good exhaust past the header, aftermarket coil/ignition box, 3.90 gear set, and the most expensive but most power, cam swap.

This post went around a month or so ago, and the conclusion was yes, they are the same as the turbo cars and MUCH easier to find.

Man, that's a SMOKIN' deal. I got a free truck also, but I had to drag it to the farm and dump it. Check out www.67-72chevytrucks.com I know their are 4 or 5 of us here on the board with trucks, too! Be careful, 67-72 GM trucks are addictive like Z cars

Haven't had the ricers mess with the bike, but me and the wife were headed out on a ride on my FJ 1100 about a week ago and a 2000 'vette was trying to run me from a light. Can you say spank?

Hey Grump, I looked at getting one of those a couple of years back. $79 is a great price compared to Summit which wants $119, but Norhtern quoted me $80 to ship the $79 stand. You may be able to do better by buying a fixed 4 leg stand locally, or the Summit stand since they have free shipping. Harbor freight has a 2000# stand for $99. I'm going to build my next stand myself and put bearings in the head to make it a breeze to rotate.