Mike C

If memory serves, James' 240Zturbo car has run 11 teens with the single turbo and he says it pulls harder now so he's definitely not ofu of nowhere and it sure don't run 12.50's.

Somebody Please video!!!! So us out-'a-staters can see. Two of my favorite cars, everybody a winner! (I'd kinda like to see the Inliner pull the upsety BTW...and set up a REMATCH!!)

In talking about the L series T5 vs. the V series T5, consensus was that the input shaft is a different length as well. I would assume that applies to your trans as well, but you know what they say about ASSume

The r200 mustache bar I swapped into my '72 is behind the upright supports. The rings on the bar are towards the front of the car. The r200 in the '73 parts car I have has the bar in front of the verticals. There may be two different r200 bars it seems. Someone else here noticed the same thing awhile back.

There is a 3.36 r200 that is out there if you shop long enough. Also, I believe it is Ross C (modern motorsports) had a 3.15 gear set for sale. Really unusual, but they are out there! You should have no troubles with the 6 3/4" balancer for sure, and I don't think there is an issue with the 8" balancer, hopefully someone else will confirm.

I keep chaning my mind... I really wanted a V8 Z when I bought my first one, but it drove so well, I sold it and bought a nicer car to drive. It had some issues and after 7 years of driving it, got my current car. I'm still not sure about the final iteration of the powertrain (bought a small journal 327 4/speed, changed my mind and got a 305 TBI and T5 changed my mind, bought turbo manifolds and turbo for the L series and a T5 changed my mind, then bought a 2.8L motor with triples, then I wound up with a pair of LT1s. I'm going to do the L28/triples for now, but think I have talked myself into the iron head LT1 I have with a carb for the Z, the fully ported aluminum head crane cammed motor will wind up with all the FI parts in my '68 Camaro.)Usually I buy complete cars and unload the rest of the parts for what I paid for the driveline so I don't have much money tied up in it. Most of the mods on my car have been suspension, driveline, interior (seats and tunes) and brakes since they work regardless of the powertrain, and the quick and easy projects you can do while driving the car are the most fun. It's good to have a plan so that what ever you do to the car works. Until you start spending money, it's cheaper to change your mind than your motor! Part of the fun is changing your mind...

IME, 7" wide wheel works with 4" backspacing. My 205 60 14 on 15x7 Centerlines worked, but the car didn't steer all that well because of the positive offset. They had 3 5/16" backspacing. My current wheels are 16x7 with 4" backspacing. Also Centerlines and I have Suspension Techniques springs that are stock diameter but lower the car 1". I could not get away with 4 1/2" backspacing. I am running 205 55 16's.

You can adjust the pivot ball in the bellhousing on some. Could it be that this is out of spec? Is it possible that you are OVER centering the clutch? How does it behave only partially depressed? I'm with Dan, this is buggin' me no end!

From my limited knowledge, I believe the 260 and 280 have the same bore (while the 240 and 260 share the same stroke?) and the N42 has same size chambers as the late E88 so valve clearance should be fine on the bore and compression should be stock. Please get confirmation from somebody else!

SLP makes several different TPI grinds. My buddy has an '86 flat tappet 305 TPI in his '74 Corvette convertible. It has the SLP flat tappet cam, Edelbrock intake base (the OEM was warped), fuel pressure regulator, 1 5/8" headers, 2400 rpm converter and 3.07 gears. It has run a best of 13.97 in the 3600# Corvette. The LT4 cam without the 1.6 rockers would be good for a 350 TPI, but too big for the 305 IMO.

Great advice from Tomahawk Z. Also, make sure and get any bad gas out of the tank and the carbs. This may require a carb rebuild and a trip to a radiator shop to boil out the tank. Running the car on partially varnished gasoline can cause the valves to stick open. I know, sounds implausible, but I now know of two different professional mechanics (one cars and one boats) who validate this through the school of hard knocks, and same thing happened to the Kohler motored generator in a friends motor home. After the oil change, I would pull the valve cover and pour oil over the cam, lifters, and springs to provide some start up lubrication. You may want to crank the motor with the coil disconnected until you get oil pressure as well.

I think the 270S is too small for a street performance vehicle in a larger displacement engine. Look at the 282S which is 230 @ .050 and should pull 6k rpm in your 454. I agree with you on the camshaft thing. Chevrolet exhaust ports outperform their intake even in stock form but especially after porting.

The T56 has a 2.6 first gear, while the Tremec has a 3.27 first gear. If you think the T56 is too short of a first, the Tremec is just a blink in comparison. I like lots of gear in my vehicles however. Power is put to the ground NOW and more gear allows you to better modulate power output to control wheelspin based on the traaction available. If you like to spped shift, stay away from the T5. It is a smooth shifting transmission with a nice spread of gears including a 2.95 first gear, between the Tremec and the T56. Add the Gearzone.net countershaft stabilizer and rebuild a World Class T5 and if should be fine in a 2400# car with 350 hp. The Tremec is a better solution than the T56 IMO because of the deeper first gear and the single overdrive coupled with the 3.54 gears of the most commonly found r200 diff give the best of both worlds. The advantage of the T56 is you can get one used, but the price isn't much less than a new Tremec from Fortes or Dark Horse Performance.

I'd take it back and get another one. Beauty of having new parts and a receipt! The brake fitting seal is a flare fitting. There should be ZERO fluid getting past this to the threads so telfon tape is not the answer. (This doesn't keep fluid from leaking past the tube through the center of the fitting anyway.)

Look down a little further for the post entitled "Need help finding wheels" Pretty much the same topic.

I have a little Craftsman tool set in a zipper pouch. Regular price was $50, but it was on sale for $24. It has SAE and metric sockets, 3 open end wrenches and a screw driver with interchangeable tips as well as a small set of SAE allen wrenches. I added a set of side cutters, a small crescent wrench, a fold-up metric allen tool and 6' of 12 ga wire. This has saved my rear a couple of times! The pouch fits nicely in the tool box and the elastic straps in the pouch keep the tools from rattling.

I have a 2 1/2" aluminized exhaust with a center in offset out 2 1/2" Dynomax Super Turbo. It is nice and quiet at idle but sounds killer when you get up in the revs. You'll never really be able to get the Ferrari sound as the flat crank 8 just sounds the way it does to some degree, regardless of the muffler. Same with the other cars. Displacment, firing order, and induction gives different engines different sounds.

Swaping my R200 in my '72 only required the mustache bar. In your case, as noted before, you will need same bar and the rear support and front mount crossmember. You will also need the stub axles from a 75-78 r200. And also as noted above, the pinion yoke bolt pattern is different on the Z31 LSD. You will need to remove the one from the donor r200 car you will get the rest of the swap parts from.

The last discussion I remember about them was the consensus was the turbo cars and the 2+2's had the same CV joint half shafts.

I almost bought one for a '68 Camaro I used to have in 1985. They were made by Fairbanks as well as some others in the mid to late 60's. They called it the Clutch Turbo and they had a Chrysler one as well, the Clutch Flite. Changed the input shaft and put an adapter on the pump housing to bolt to a manual trans bellhousing. Added some "ears" to the pump drive so the clutch fingers (I think the used the fingers) would drive the pump. Then used a full manual valve body. Their magazine ads about 10 years ago advertised their clearancing the last of their parts. By the mid 70's torque converter technology had advanced to the point that drag cars were faster with a full auto than the clutched auto. I still think it is a great idea for a FAST drag car (8's-9's) that gets driven on the street regularly. Other than that, a true manual trans is a better solution since the gearing is better. When I was autocrossing my Camaro regularly, one of the biggest improvements I made in handling was replacing the auto with a 4 speed. Lap times improved significantly and I though the car was easier to drive. You could definitely bring it back from oversteer conditions much further out and the additional engine braking was a boon as well.

Having put quite a few miles on a crossfire, I disagree with your assessment of the motor. While not a top end motor, it makes a phenomenal amount of low speed torque. The ultimate tow truck engine if you will. It has an amazingly smooth idle and can be picked up cheap because people dog on 'em for not making any power. It'll still spank a 305 TPI car. Mine had a 180 thermostat and a Hypertech chip. It was a manual trans car and would put a fender on my buddy's '89 Mustang through second gear. His car ran 14 0's (After that HP takes over!)I'd even beat a co-workers '93 twin turbo RX7 up to 60 mph! Admittedly 12" wide tires don't hurt couple with the tow truck torque curve... Turbo City has upgrade throttle bodies, and with a ported intake and cam it can make in the 275 hp range. Like the JTR manual says about their two different cars, the mild one and "the mule", most people prefer the mild car as a daily driver, and a Crossfire 'vette motor would be an excellent choice for a driver. There was more power to be had, but the wet flow intake was destined for the recycle bin. The TPI motors don't have much more potential with the stock intake and plenum. Should be able to recoup some of your investment with interior parts, electric, rear axle, etc. Or swap the front brakes and rear axle on your Z like Scottie did!

Instead of using a c-clip to hold the joint in, Nissan crimped the yoke around the u-joints. You might be able to grind the crimps, press out the joints and hone the thing smooth, but doubtful. Get a driveshaft from a 72-73 240 and you should be fine to replace joints.

The foot lever is for rear seat passnegers in the Eclipse to fold the seat up to get out. I just cut it off when I was modifying the seat tracks.

Do all the standards, staring with battery terminals. Next make sure ground is good. Sometimes battery corrosion can get into the cables and you can't see it but it has destroyed the connection. Check the fusebile link where the 10ga wire attaches to the starter. Then check same wire where it screws to the fuse box. An ohmeter will hope check continuity. If you have modified the wiring system for a 1 wire or internal reg alternator, you should check that as well.

My 16x7 Centerlines were $159 each from Summit Racing. They are a special order in the Z bolt pattern so it took about a month to get them. I think they have discontinued the Aztec pattern, but you can still get the Thruster which would look good on a Z.(That was my second choice.) I have stock diameter springs and the wheels are 4" backspacing with 205 55 16 Dunlop D60's from the Tire Rack. They were clearanced at $59 each! I sucked it up and bought McGuard lug nuts and locks at the same time. You can use stock lug nuts, but the chrome ones will help keep rust off your $ wheels. My total investment was less than $1000 including mounting a balancing.