Mike C

The more radical the roller, the more often you will have to adjust lash. I run one in my Camaro and check lash about every 2500 miles. It is a comp 280AR (280/280 236@.050 .560 gross lift .020/.021 lash) Originally checked it about 500 then 1000 just to get a feel for how it changed. A stud girdle helps to hold lash for a longer duration than just the set screws on the posi locks.

I don't know for sure. But I believe the Scat rods are made in US. Scat got their start building cranks for VWs and have branched out in the last few years.

I think the Milodon pan will be fine. Remember that the pan capacity does not include the filter or plumbing for the cooler and the cooler, which will be probably two more quarts. I would think the shorter would be the best. I have a Moroso 7 qt in the Camaro that is 8 1/4" and it is as low as I would want to go.

Most cams are stamped on the end with the grind number and mfr. A degree wheel and dial indicator will let you map out the cam so you know exactly if it is not stamped.

Hey Ross, Haven't heard anything about the 240SX caliper brackets. What's the status?

I participate in a truck message board, and ONE GUY on that board has 10,000! Yikes!

Gotta love modern combustion chambers The Vortecs are a great head, especially for the price. Only drawbacks (and they are minor) is with fewer intake bolts, there propensity to leak is higher than conventional setup. (Also, I wouldn't go with the redrilled heads for an older intake as you lose some of the benefits of the tall narrow intake ports) Also, the self-aligning rocker arms. With that out of the way, for a mild ~400hp street motor, they are a heck of a deal. Especially if you don't already have an intake. You can get a complete kit with rockers, bolts, gaskets, heads and an intake for less than $800 from Jim Pace and/or Scoggin Dickey.

I think the heads were same, but the pistons were different.

Aluminum is far worse about work hardening than copper. Copper is not allowable for fuel by any sanctioning bodies. I don't know if it is an electro-mechanical relationship or a chemical problem with fuel. Either way, DON"T RUN COPPER FOR FUEL. Check with somebodies tech line (Holley/Autometer) For exact reason.

Cast aluminum valve covers do a bang up job of sound deadening compared to stamped steel. WIth the added bonus of better gasket sealing.

Kinda cross posting to your two now... The compression, cam, intake and carb are different on the 275 hp motor. See other posts for some recommendations.

What is the casting number of your heads? (Between some of the rocker studs with the valve cover off) Any of the "double humps" are good heads. I would recommend hardened exhaust seats, new bronze guides and 2.02 1.60 valves be installed. Vatting and surfacing and a simple pocket port and port matching will make those heads flow very well. I highly recommend David Vizard's book, "How to build and modify small block chevy cylinder heads", very well worth the $25. He shows how to get a set of double humps to flow 260 cfm on the intake at .550 lift. Compareable to the AFR 195 which win most of the streetable head comparisons. I have a set of ported 492 on my 355 and they push my 3500# Camaro to the mids 12's at over 110 mph on street tires through the mufflers. Check out Northern Auto Parts for a $450 rebuild kit with all new parts and forged pistons. (I recommend the Energizer 272 cam for your setup.) Also, save up a few extra bucks for an aftermarket aluminum intake. Either the Weiand Stealth, Holley 300-36 or Performer RPM. Check out these guys also for some discount parts:Powerhouse Engine Kits

Small block chevy's were painted yellow as installed in Studebaker cars. (Just 65 I believe and the Avantis 66-present.) This obviously would not apply to your SB as the big journal motors were not made at that time. They may have been yellow in industrial applications as well, but my guess would be someone had painted it yellow for installation in their car in the past. The 678 casting shows as a 68 302, 327 or 350. The ME code says 68 Camaro 210hp 327.

300hp would be possible, but just like a Z 6 cylinder, you'd have to rev the pee out of it. 300hp should be easy with a turbo. You should be able to get stock buick parts from somebody on the buick board who has modified their car.

Give Billy Graham Camaro/Firebird salvage a call. About a year ago I spoke with him about a '97 'bird 3800/T5 setup with all accessories, exhaust, wiring, computer, driveshaft. Everything, 8000 miles for $1500 plus shipping. If I believe what I hear, the 6 cylinders use a Ford Wordclass T5. I'm not sure if the front driver block has same motormounts/bellhousing as the rear driver or if it is drilled for a pilot bushing.

I just put a new booster on my 72, and here is what I know... 71 booster is small diameter 72 booster is small diameter 73-78 is large diameter 71 has smaller pushrod and clevis with larger hole to go through the brake pedal. 72-78 have same clevis and the smaller pin for the brake pedal. 72 is unique to that year alone, so I wound up buying a rebuilt for 75-78 and redrilling firewall. Actually happy with the results although not with the cost... I bought a used 73 booster and 78 which were both no good and then a used 71 booster before learning about the clevis... Ended up spending $100 AND having to buy the blankety blank auto parts store one... Were it me, I'd buy the 75-78 rebuild, redrill the firewall and swap in a brake pedal from a 72 or 73 or weld yours up and redrill the hole to the smaller size.

What year is your car? Mine is a '72 and the donor rear was from a '78. All I needed was the mustache bar, everything else is same. If you have a 70 or 71, you also need the diff crossmembers and a driveshaft. Either way half shafts should be fine. This post probably should be in driveline section though...

Nothing burns up a diff faster than big burnouts in a single track. Cuts grooves in the spider gear shaft increasing clearance and decreasing strength. All this metal contaminates the oil which takes out the other bearings. If you are going to drag race the car, gonna have to go limited slip. The sudden traction leaving the bleach box can grenade as well, but sounds more like a bearing since you were able to drive it home. Let us know what you found...

This is a good idea. Finally got a shot of myself to post as well.

Thanks Pete, that's the point I was trying to make on cost of rods. I had a friend who had the regular TRW flat tops dished 10cc for a 455 Pontiac. I'm pretty sure that was closer to .125. You need to look at the bottom, but I don't see any problem taking .040 off the top. Especially a normally aspirated motor. The top ring starts getting pretty close to the combustion area, which puts more load on the ring itself.

Also, the nissan 5 speed looks almost just like the 4 speed, while the T5 is quite a bit different appearing.

You can buy brand new 6" bushed rods with ARP bolts from Powehouse at www.enginekits.com for $239.

Holley makes a trick little 390 cfm 4 barrel that would be perfect for an L6. Expensive booger, however. They also have a 390 with choke housing removed that NASCAR uses (or at least used to use) on its restrictor plate motors on the super speed ways. (600hp and 390 cfm!?)

The new Victoria British catalog (came in the mail yesterday)has a picture of an early 240 with white mesh (Enkei/Riken) wheels on it

Turbo. This months Popular Hot Rodding has a street driven 89 Corvette with a twin turbo 1300 hp 406. 11 teens at 150+ mph!! Looks bone stock on the outside. With the belt driven centrifugal supercharger the other guys are right, 650 or so hp is about the best you can hope for and still drive it.