Mike C

I don't know anymore, but SCAT was a California based company that got its start making stroker cranks for VW bugs. They were THE crank to own for a hot rod VW. They were one of the first making cast steel 383 cranks as well, and I would guess that some of the big mail order companies "house" cranks are made by SCAT.

They should be fine as long as they have been magged and I would probably go to the trouble to xray as well. Race prepped I assume you mean beams have been ground and polished, shot peened and new bolts along with a resize? They do have ARP bolts? Keep maximum engine speed below 7000 rpm. Light pistons and pins don't hurt longevity either. Listen to your wife! Let your wrist heal.

Condensor. Also, check points in case the key was accidentally left on and cooked 'em.

It raises and lowers the emulsion tube just like the choke. So screwing it in richens it up, and out leans it. In is clockwise looking from the bottom.

If you have to buy new pulleys, go for the '67-'68 Z/28 deep groove pulleys. They are less prone to throw belts and have more high performance ratio than the standard setup for a short pump.

I removed the air pump from my 240 and plugged the manifold with brass pipe fittings. It isn't an exact fit but it works. Be forewarned, It is VERY difficult to get the tube fittings out of the manifold. (Involves, cutting, drilling, heating and cursing. LOTS of cursing )

hiccups out the carbs is usually from being too lean (which is why it does it cold) Also stumbles can be because oil level is low in carbs.

The ones I have seen did. But like I said, the 4 speed shifter has a BIG bend and the same offset towardds the driver. The length of the shifter BELOW the pivot (inside the trans) is different for the 4 speed. I put my 4 speed shifter in my 5 speed originally, and it would not engage 5th gear.

I agree with going to 16 or 17 inch wheels. I drive my car daily and wanted more inexpensive tires, so I went with 16" Centerlines and 205 55 16's Dunlop D60 for the best ride. The height is almost same as original and enough sidewall to absorb chuckhole shocks. I do not have coil overs and it is about the biggest tire that will fit with a little clearance (1/4" or so) on either side. I have 16x7 inch wheels with 4" backspacing.

You should already have an R200 in your car, so the new one will drop right in. In my experience, the 5 speed slips right in as well, but the shifters are different. They are not interchangeable either. My first one I bent the handle to the right shape, but it was too short. The second one I cut the 5 speed shifter right above the pivot and welded a 4 speed handle to it. If you could get a factory 77-78 5 speed shifter, that would be the drop in ticket. As far as performance, especially off the line, it just depends on what first gear you have in the 5 speed how performance will be affected. The best Nissan 5 speed is the 78-79 with the 2.9 first gear (NISMO trannys excluded and the T5). More than likely, the 4 speed and 3.54 will have better off the line performance than the 5 speed 3.90 setup, but overdrive rocks! Once again, depending on the overdrive in your 5 speed, your results may vary as to how much reduction, if any you'll have compared to the 3.54 4 speed setup. IMO, the T5 has the best ratios of the more "common" trannys. I have my eyes open for one for my car...

Hi Jim, I think you got this on the wrong board. (This is the Chevy V8 board) Hopefully one of the administrators can move it, but here is my two cents. They are both excellent carbs. The advantage of the new Mikunis is you don't have to wonder if bad gaskets or worn throttle shafts are a problem. I just acquired an intake with triple Del'Lortos for my car.

The world class T5 uses paper cone synchronizer and moly faced gears for more durability. They run ATF instead of gear lube. With the Ford's, they switched to GMs 2.95 first gear from their 3.27 first which gives the Ford WC the same torque capacity as GM in first. FYI, the torque rating is a continuos load over 24 hours and not an instaneous or shock load rating where "your results may vary" Probably a better choice than the T56 is a Tremec 5 speed with a 3.27 first and .75 overdrive. The gear spread is better than the T56 and who needs TWO overdrives? The T56 is geared for passing emissions not for performance (Thus the second overdrive allowing GM to keep a manual trans and avoid the dreaded "sniffer" and the guzzler penalty) Also, with the Tremec you don't have to run the goofy (read EXPENSIVE)pull-off clutch.

I believe that CLifford Performance might have them as well. Easy to tune, yes, but distribution to the end cylinders is questionable at best.

The early 240 su's work great in most mild applications. I just acquired a set of triple 40 Del'Lortos, so once their goin', I'll let ya' know. I never had problems with my 240 and its original su's in temps as low as 15 deg f. My current 240 chokes are not functioning (console lever pulled out of console plastic) so it is a ROYAL PITA to start. Also warms up slow unlike my last car that warmed up FAST. Heater was warm before I got 2 blocks!

Like Zgimp said, LT1 works fine with the JTR conversion, and with no distributor in the rear, there is no need to modify hood latch. Were it me, and I was looking to learn the most and had access to complete machine services, I would build the 3.1 stroker motor. WAY more to be learned that way vs. "another" SBC rebuild. Get an N47 head off a Maxima to go NA or the turbo N47 and some dished pistons to go 3.1 turbo. WooHoo! One of the big drawbacks to the 3.1 is all of the machine work and assembly, but if you have the opportunity to get it pro bono, go for it!

I don't see any reason you can't do all of those things. I drive my Camaro to the track (65 miles each way) and run 12.7's at 110. And it is at LEAST 1000# heavier than a sb z. As far as aftermarket vs. stock cylinder heads, If you look at David Vizards book "How to build and modify small block chevy cylinder heads",his worked set of 186 castings flow 260+ cfm at .500 lift. This is as good as most of the aftermarket aluminum heads, and the low lift flow is better in a large number of the cases. A well worked set of GM castings can be as good as most aftermarket heads, at least with standard port locations and valve angles.

lmao I didn't quite understand, but I am assuming you are using the tank filler on the side of your car? I have been looking for a near perfect '86 FJ1200 tank with the flush mount cap to replace the raised cap on my 85 FJ1100. What did you pay finally?

When I first took one apart I thought they needed way more force than they really do. I made a puller out of a 4" long piece of 3" angle 3/16 thick. I drilled 3 holes to line up with three of the halfshaft studs and welded a nut in the center that was same thread as my slide hammer. Put the "puller" on the stub and snugged 3 nuts, screwed on the slide hammer and POP. Overkill, but I got a neat tool now.

Your "real world" guess of around 425hp seems reasonable, but, I don't believe even a heavily worked set of L98 heads would be anywhere near 500hp. Especially with the 1.94 valves still. Seems like a pretty good combo all and all. The short stroke and 7000+ rpm capability should bode well for reaching the 400hp mark. For my $, the super broad rpm range makes the car MUCH more fun to drive. Can't wait to see what the chassis dyno says!

I have 70-81 Camaro Firebird mirrors on my Z. I think they look very integral and even match the curves of the Z. Here is a shot. Don't know if it's your type, but picture is worth 1k words, right?

JTR stands for jags that run and you can do an internet search to find their site. Welcome and good luck!

I would not hesitate to buy the steel flywheel. Without shelling out the big bucks for an explosion proof bellhousing, the steel flywheel makes good sense, although it won't contain a clutch explosion, the bellhousing probably will. The bellhousing WILL NOT contain a cast iron flywheel explosion...

When GM switched to the one-piece rear seal in 1986, they had to change the counterwighted rear flange on the crank to round in order for the one piece seal to slip over the crank end, so the counterweight had to move to the flywheel. At this point, the 305 and 350 use a different flywheel post '86. They also revised the bolt pattern at the same time.

I don't think anyone makes a bearing spacer to run the small journal crank in a 400 block. You could run a 302 or 327 large journal crank or even a 350 crank. All de-stroke the 400. For my money, if I had a 400 block I'd build a 406. Otherwise, it seems that a 350 can be made into quite the winder. I had a Comp mechanical cam in my motor for a year. 265/265 at .050 .540 lift and 106 degree lobe centers. This motor made NO power below 3500 rpm, but it revved 3500 to 7500 almost before you could pull the shifter handle for the next gear. Take a look at a Winston Cup motor. These 358ci motors turn 7-9k rpm for 500 miles! Real high winders. A shorter stroke smaller displacement will wind higher with the same size cam, but in my experience, the larger displacement motor can be made to rev fast also with good lightweight reciprocating parts and valvetrain which I think is worth more power and durability wise than building an odd combination of bore/stroke. Also, all the money saved on custom parts for the destroked motor can be spent on better parts for a standard displacement motor.

I ran a Pertronix ignitor for 7 years on my last 240 and put one on my current car as well. Just after the warranty expired, burned it up doing a cranking compression test. Pisser. Options are a complete distributor/box swap from a newer car, single pickup distributor with GM HEI module, Crane or Stinger conversion for points distributor, or Mallory Unilite distributor. The Mallory is really expensive, but gives you the advantage of a fully adjustable advance curve without brazing and filing. I'm not sure if you can buy the Mallory with a magnetic pickup and run an MSD, but that would be my first choice.