Mike C

The half shafts should bolt up the same, at least they have on all the cars I have messed with. (2 '72 240's, 2 '73 240's, a '75 280 and a '78 280.) The R180 has the "bolt on" units that contain the stub axle seals. On m7 '72 I grabbed the mustache bar and diff from a '78 280 and used the stock '72 driveshaft, halfshaft and rear curved crossmember.

I agree with Grumpy all the way. Go with an Energizer 272 cam and a Performer intake and you should be good to a strong 5000 rpm. If you plan on building a stronger motor later, go with the RPM intake. You really don't want to run any more than that with a passenger car oil pump and stock rod bolts IMO.

I plan on modifying one of my LT-1 intakes for a distributor and re-aligining the bolt holes, using a distributor from a '90 TBI motor I have and buying the DFI computer/harness for a TPI setup. We'll see how it goes, and oh yeah, guess I need to get a JOB first

A roller should have ZERO lober wear issues, that's part of the beauty of the system. I tell people to go with Comps Magnum grinds rather than XE because of LOTS of lobe scuffing problems, at least with their earlier cams. Besides, Chevy's have excellent exhaust ports (I know Terry, Blue oval!)and work well with single pattern cams, sometimes added exhuast duration can cause over scavenging.

Smokin' deal, dude! I got a couple of LT1s about a month ago. One a high mileage cop car motor with all accessories, wiring etc. and the other a 30k mile motor from a '96 SS Camaro with CNC ported heads and a Crane roller. Paid a $1000 for both, but to get the tranny also, what a score! (I still don't feel bad, though!)

Nice explanation. Also, it is much easier to accurately dial in mechanical + initial for overall advance than it is with vac advance. The Proform is setup to run with vac advance off of a ported vac connection, however. One drawback to running GM style HEI is that there is no adjustability built into the mechanical advance. You have to either slot the advance plate and/or weld up the pins to change it. One of the REAL benefits to running an aftermarket distributor like MSD.

I bought the H4 conversion lights from Motorsport. On sale for $59 a pair, at least they were. I installed them a couple of weeks ago and could not be happier! It's like driving in a new car.

The turbo cars with LSD were 87-89. The 88-92 (I think...)rear calipers from a 240sx are the ones for Ross C brackets and Z31 rotors. Can't say on the wheels...

Greiman is correct. You also need to calculate tire height for actually overall gearing. If you are running a carbureted car, it may not work smoothly at the rpm the 5th gear puts you in. IMO, the 6 speed isn't as good a choice as a Tremec or BW as far as gear ratios go, but that would be max output and not economy minded.

You can buy it through GM. Check out Scoggin Dickey or Jim Pace.You could also have your existing heads CNC ported and buy an aftermarket cam.

Awesome! Can't wait to do mine. Already have the brackets painted but need to get my 280 strut tubes/stub axles that I will rebuild and put in my 240, so I can skip the Sawzall step!

Is anybody running straight dump rams horns on their cars or just the turn backs? Instead of block hugger headers it seems you could angle mill and spot face the Corvette 2 1/2" Rams horns if straigh dump manifolds will work. Either extrude hone or have somebody like Brezinski flow them and have the best of both worlds. I replaced a set of 1 5/8" headers on my JImmy wiht the Corvette 2 1/2" dump manifolds and was REALLY pleased. Extremely quiet in comparison and excellent power delivery. With only a 266 cam in it I can't make a testament to top end power, but a fuelie 'vette would pull 6500+. A 2 1/2" mandrel bent 90 deg elbow to 2 1/2" to 3 (un) reducer and 3" exhasut out the back. Any thoughts on this?

Solid lifter cams make GREAT power. Just look at the Z car motors. But the GM solid lifter doesn't hold lash as well as the Nissan one and you'll have to at least check it every 8-10k miles. The Comp 282s looks like a great cam, but I agree with Grumpyvette 100% on the Rhodes lifters. It is a crutch. In a car that weighs 2500# with lots of gear like a Z, low speed drivability should be a non-issue unless your carb is whacked, regardless of the cam, within reason of course.

If you paid for a 350, get your 350. Actually, a 305 would make a pretty decent motor for a Z IMO. I have a friend who did the first TPI swap I ever saw. It was an '86 TPI 305 in his '74 Corvette convertible. 3600lbs. With the GM computer, and SLP cam, headers and an Edelbrock TPI base, it ran 13.97 in Houston. It ran real consistent 14.20s usually, and with 1200# less in a Z, it should run 12.60s or so. BUT, if you paid for a 350, go get it. I bought a TBI 305 and T5 for my 240 but I've changed my mind AGAIN and will run a 10.5:1 L28 with E88 head and triple Del'Lortos I got from a buddy

Use a flare nut wrench AND a pair of vise grips. Put the flare nut wrench on and then clamp the vise grips to squeeze the wrench jaws in and preload them. Then you can put the WHAMMY on it withoug rounding off the fitting. Even with flare nut wrenches it's possible to round off the fittings. Vise grips work as well but make a mess of the fitting unless you just clamp the you-know-what out of it with a pair with flat jams that won't bite the fitting too hard. Be careful, If it is all bound up I have seen the steel line twist when the fitting turns.

Like everything else, IMO it depends! If you are running a hydraulic roller and believe AFR, it would be crazy not to! I would say it was a neccessity for a really big cam on the street so you could reduce valve spring pressures so the heads/valves as well as springs would live longer or if you turn 7500+ rpm for periods of time longer than a drag race. I have put probably 15k miles on my Comp solid roller in the last 15 years and have had no troubles without a rev kit. I always planned on a stud girdle just to help hold lash, but never needed it.

I would run the Crane Energizer 272. With 1.94 valves and the large chambers you want to increase the low to mid torque. I have a 266 Energizer in my 331 now where it used to have a 284. I would bet if the motor were back in my Camaro it would be faster with the little cam than it ever was with the big one. The 272 should work well in a mild motor and they are only $80 with lifters!!!!! You don't need a Victor Jr. The rated power is 4000-7500! MAYBE a performer RPM, but you should spend money on some Dart SR Torquers with 2.02 valves and 64cc chambers instead of a different intake. The more practical you go the happier you'll be, speaking from experience...

Make sure and take the time to shim the starter correctly so the problem won't return. Here is a link to a post on another board where I described the process. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/board/ubbhtml/Forum1/HTML/020067.html

There is a new pan in the Summit sale catalog. It is a 7qt pan for road race or roundy-round. It is only 7" deep sump and has no kickout to interfere. It is by Hamburger. Part # HAM-3047h. It is in the new products section of the catalog effective through April 30.

Seems counterproductive. Buy the shorter one and a 1" spacer. You can always port the spacer to the plenum if that is a concern. If it won't fit, just take the spacer off...

Excellent. Let me know how that Quaife works. I'm really interested in SOME sort of LSD, and If I'm going to spend $700 or so, why not spend $900?

If you can't get a universal shim set from a local driveline store, give Reider Racing a call. I'm sure they can set you up. The better shim sets have interlocking end pieces that make it easier to get 'em all in there, but the cheap ones work fine as well. If you measure the OD of the carrier bearing race and the stub od, I'll measure the universal shim set I have and let you know if that will work.

I believe the 20190 is 7 1/2" deep. I'll double check. It was only $90 when I bought mine, but $125 now I think.

The Vortec has a tall skinny intake port, but the 305 ones have 58cc chambers which is too much for most 350" motors. Get the casting number and go to www.mortec.com

Are the heads Vortec 305s or regular TBI 305 heads?