Mike C

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but if your motor is fuel injected still, the idle air control motor will bypass air to keep the idle speed up regardless of whether the throttle blade is cracked or closed.

It is AFR's own page. I was going to post a link but it is not operating at this time. I'll post it anyway. Must be that new worm... AFR

All things being equal, the 350 will make more power than the 327. They are inherently the same except a .23" increase in stroke with the 350. HP=torque x rpm and as you say, the 350 will make more torque. I would go with the free 350 and use the $300 for carb, headers, intake etc. If you are going to go through the motor, check out the street performance rebuild kit from northernautoparts.com ($420 with forged pistons and everything else to assemble a longblock except heads)

Just another word of warning, spinning one tire hard like that is extremely hard on side gears, spider gears and the spider cross shaft or "pin". It tends to curve the teeth in only one direction which makes differentiation the opposite way difficult or impossible and will pit the gear face as well as groove the spider pin increasing gear clearance. This will cause differential failure sooner rather than later. Boom.

I also have both and agree. (Which was my comment on the other post)In my experience, the Carter will last longer as well AND, it's cheaper.

Cyberdyne has an AF meter that will use your O2 sensor for $30 from Summit. (I think they had a name change, but the LED gauges in the catalog)

I have one on my current Z, but neither of my priors did. (First was a '73 240 then a '72 made Novemeber '71. Current car made Jan '72) I can't make any statements as to aerodynamics or specifics about cooling, but the engineers did it for a reason so I would assume that either cooling or economy were increased by a noticeable amount for them to include it.

I guess that could be done in the lower hose, but I don't think it would be very accurate. Regardless, I think the sender needs to be before the thermostat. Otherwise a defective t-stat could cause the engine to overheat but not register high on the gauge? Anyone? If you are willing to assusme that the thermostat is working (reasonable assumption) then you can get a t-stat housing that is tapped for senders.

I haven't done a pinion flange swap on the Datsun rear, but I've done it on 5 or so GM rears that also use a crush sleeve. I've seen no detrimental effects.

NHRA does require Corvettes that run faster than 11.0 to ditch the IRS. I broke a stub axle retaining clip in my '84 Corvette. Sometimes it was fine and then every once in awhile it would try and drive off the road You'd correct and it would be fine again. Took awhile to figure that out since you couldn't see a problem. I'm not sure if they would let the Z suspension stay or not, but seems more likely than the 'vette setup.

My neighbor sold a Super Comp '66 Corvette about 2 years ago. It had a Nickens brothers 385ci motor and dynoed at 854hp with a single 4 barrel. It ran low 8's. For 13 years it held the title of fastest corvette by the National Corvette Owners Society (Back halved but stock front suspension)Not exactly streetable, though. 14:1 compression and a 6500rpm stall converter. He sold the car and built a pro-mod superbird. Check it out... Tolbert Motorsport

I've spent a lot of time in yards around here and there are NO Z's in yards. Plenty of ZX's however. Not turbos, though. I agree with you on parts. Part of the trouble is these chain type stores. I buy almost all of my parts anymore from northernautoparts.com since they have to be ordered locally anyhow, I figure why not save the tax and have them delivered to my door?

Interesting. Hadn't seen that before. Hell of a torque curve.

There were some 307 forged cranks. I had a friend get one from a boat (!?) motor. Like a 305 and 350, counterweights are different. Unless you have a set of lightweight pistons plan on spending a little more for balancing. 327 large journal steel cranks are out there as well, but not common.

They are as long as they use the same size bolts. The later factory r200's use 12mm ring gear bolts (82 and later according to Reider Racing)the earlier ones are 10mm. In my experience working with rear axles, if you are just adding an LSD to an existing housing, backlash can be set with a dial indicator. If you are swapping in a complete gear set, new or used, in a different housing, you will have to have a pinion depth checker. I have one by T&D Machine but I haven't disassembled an r200 to test compatibility (this clamps in the bearing caps.) A universal depth checker can be had by Proform from Jegs at $99 or Precision Measurement (San Antonion) for $175, these measure from the cap mounting flange.) FWIW, the T&D was $300 but has paid for itself twice. For a one time deal it's probably best to take you diff to a driveline shop, figure about $200 labor.

$300 is an excellent deal IMO. To identify the high nickel block their will be two numbers cast into the block behind the timing cover. 010 020 or 010 030, the regular blocks are just 010. Are the double humps with or without bolt holes? With are more desireable as you can use later accessory drives. Are they factory installed 2.02 valves (If so there is a unshrouding cut around the near wall of the intake valve in the combusion chamber) Typical 4 bolt block will bring $50-$100 bare unmachined, about $350 for a short block. Double humps can be had for $100 (needing rebuild)a pair for no bolt holes, but with holes brings $200-$300 needing rebuild. Good machine work on the block should set you back about $400-$600 (vatting, boring, honing with torque plates, squaring the deck to crank, align hone if not using original crank) . I highly recommend the high perf rebuild kit from Northern Auto Parts $419 with forged pistons: Chevy 350 (to 1985) Street Performance I would buy a set of aftermarket heads. Combustion chambers are much better design and usually flow better for about twice the cost. Figure $500 to completely recondition an older set of heads. (Valves, springs, retainers, guides, vatting, surfacing, screw in studs if you plan use above 5500 rpm.) Sorry for rambling on...

1971 saw a reduction in rated power from GM. '70 was the last year of the regular 300hp 350. The LT1 in '71 was rated at 330 hp and if this is the motor you can get, snap it up. (9.5:1 compression, steel crank, forged pistons, 4 bolt mains, big valve heads with screw in studs, aluminum intake and Holley 780)Otherwise, highest hp was the 270 hp (These are both Corvette powerplants, Camaros were 10hp less and the 330 hp was only in the 'vette or F-body.) I don't think you could get a 327 in '71 since it was replaced by the 307 in early '69. Anybody else confirm that? Base your decision first on what the powerplants are/were and next on what you plan to do with it. If one has 5,000 miles and the other one 500,000 miles, get the lower mileage motor. If you want a motor that turns 7500 rpm, the 327 is probably a better choice, but if driveability with a small hydraulic cam is the goal, go 350. IMO, it doesn't make a ton of difference, just preference. I like 'em both.

JTR has the phone number, but I found one for my '86 Firebird tpi motor by searching internet for Helm.

I have a Holley on my Camaro and won't buy another. Makes more noise than the average chipper/shredder I put a 5 psi Carter on the Z. Just a bit louder than exhaust at idle, and can't hear it once you start moving. I mounted it on the vertical support for the rear control arm rather than the sheetmetal. There is a TON of room with the r180 mustache bar, but not as easy with the r200. Carter sells a noise damping kit. About $15 that consists of 3 rubber mounts with studs on either end. Just like the MSD shock mounts. I didn't ahve room because of my S.T. sway bar and the r200, but noise is not objectionable. I tolerate the Holley on the CAmaro, because with 2 1/2" Flowmasters and 3500rpm on the hwy, can't hear it anyhow.

You will need the cat to pass the visual inspection. All cars sold in the US 1975 and later originally had catalytic converter. Someone has just removed it in your cars past.

This has always been a confusing issue as they change the rules all the time At one time, with engine swaps, all of the emissions devices form either the car or the engine were required depending on what was newer. If you put a '65 327 in a '69 Camaro, you had to have all emissions devices as OEM on a '69 Camaro. I would think this still applied. ie your 65 motor would have to have all of the emissions devices as found on a '77 Datsun (air pump, PCV, charcoal cannister, catalyst) This can get prohibitively expensive which is the advantage of going with a newer engine which should be complete. Since the rules do and have changed you should find out if you can get copies of the

The finned cover is the limited slip. On a '71 you need the lower control arm brace that goes between the vertical mounts as well as the mustache bar. It is clearanced because the diff in the 72 and later cars is moved back to change the half shaft angles. This minimizes u-joint angles and vibrations, so you get a double bonus by upgrading on a 71 and earlier car. $110 sounds like a good deal to me. What is this r200 out of? What about the mustache bar? I don't think they ever put a 3.90 in a 280z which is what you need the mustache bar and lower mount from.

I don't like the Holley pumps. They are lounder than all get out and seem to fail regularly. Bang on it and see if it starts making noise again I used to keep a mallet in my Camaro for that purpose The Carter pump seems quieter and more reliable. Just base your purchase on how much fuel delivery you need for your motor. I have heard somewhere that the carbed RX7 fuel pump is good for NA mild motor.

I don't know if it has run in the car, but I think so. I'm not sure about that picture, but what are those AN fittings in the front of the fuel rails? Plugs? Here is the main site, they have more info on the car including dyno specs Unlimited Racing Actually, couldn't find it going through the front, but here is the link I found first with motor specs and dyno #'s. Twin Turbo 377 [ August 28, 2001: Message edited by: Mike C ]

A similar setup to this might work in a Z with smaller plumbing and turbos. twin turbo