Lewis Maudlin

My first Z, I worried only about interior and mechanical work first. When I got done, I found some frame rot that my body guy missed. It was serious. I was so disgusted, I stripped and parted my car. This time, I went cosmetic first. Mechanical can always be fixed, frame rot cannot.

Could a faulty ignitor chip cause my symptoms? It will fire and run poorly when hand turned with the crank angle sensor pulled out. It will fire the coils but not the injectors with the crank angle sensor inserted all the way.

Portable scanners which receive police frequencies are readily available. However, possession of one in an automobile is illegal in most states. One more crime to take on to the bank robber or even the street racer when he is arrested. E.g. Resisting law enforcement, Fleeing, Evading, Reckless Driving, Failure to Yield, Speeding, Illegal Possession of a Police Radio.

OK, here is where I am stuck. The fuel injectors do not fire unless I pull out the crank angle sensor. The coils fire. If I pull out the crank angle sensor and turn the engine over by hand, the coils and injectors both fire and the car runs but crappy. Anyone know? Is there a more complete wiring diagram available anywhere?

Man that stinks. I ordered one since it was not much more than a used ECU. We have 93 octane available here in Indiana. That really stinks though if the pump gas here will not work well with the computer I ordered. Does anyone else have any info?

Has anyone tried a Mines programmed computer? My computer that came with my swap was beat to death. It doesn't work. I am replacing with the Mines unit. This is where I got it. Let me know if anyone knows anything. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/S13-Silvia-180SX-Mine-s-VX-ROM-Tuned-ECU-62-CPU-SR20DET_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33598QQitemZ8028076680QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Also, I am still looking for air conditioning suggestions

Everything Mike said was correct. I have done the 700R4 too. One thing to watch out for is the 700R4 is a weak tranny unless you have one that is built. I went through one tranny with 2 rebuild before opting to spend $1400 on a built 700R4 to handle the big motor and light car. The overdrive is a must if you intend on driving your car more than a few miles.

So what are you guys using for a Tach? I have the other gauge issues taken care of. I need to figure out the tach. Is there any way to make the stock tach work? I have replaced all of the other gauges except the speedo and tach. I would like to keep them, but if I have to, I will replace. Anyone?

Thanks Jamie, that is what I needed to know.

OK, I messed up. I was putting in all new Autometer gauges and did not mark the ones that went to the fuel gauge. There is a black, green and yellow. I would assume that the black is a ground. This would make the yellow or the green the ignition. The other would go to the fuel sensor. I am going to use the ground and the ignition on the new temp gauge. Does anyone know or have a book that tells? I would appreciate any help. Thanks.

Thanks again Alex. Your mounts are great. Just gotta get these fuel injectors to fire.

I have been to that site. Here is what it says near the top. "English manual - No S13 SR20DET Manual available, don't ask!" I don't think they have one. Anyone know where to look.

OK, install completed. My fuel injectors aren't firing very often. Either my computer is toast or there is a problem with the wiring somewhere. Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for the S13?

Back when I was a motorcyclist, I remember reading an article about a company that was making a siamesed Hayabusa engine. It was two Hayabusa joined. It was something like a 200 lb V-8 that put out some decent numbers even in torque. It also would fit in a 2'x2' box. Maybe a couple of those in a Z. One in the trunk and one under the hood would give you the acceleration you desire. I think the engine was supposed to retail around $13,000.00.

They had it!!!! Thanks!!!

Of course I called. What kind of question is that? Maybe it wasn't the question so much as the tone? "Did you EVEN...". Anyway, I do appreciate the help, but they did not have one available. Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

You guys aren't much help. I still haven't been able to locate a starter. My car still sits. Anyone know where I can get a good used SR20DET starter? I have called around still no luck.

I still haven't been able to find one. Anyone with other suggestions?

my swap is stalled. I need a starter. There were 3 on ebay last week and I didn't get one. anyone know where I can get one? I found one online for $825, but the ones on ebay were $50-100. I prefer $50-100. Any suggestions?

I was just curious how many 1st gen Z's are now running SR20DET's. Mine is going to be finished this week. I am running the T28 with a FMIC, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, a ported and polished aftermarket intake manifold, an exhaust manifold and Walbro fuel pump. Everything else is pretty much stock. I thought about the 550 injectors and Z32 MAF, but I think those things will cut my fuel economy too much. I drive 70 miles a day. Anyone have any other suggestions? Anyone know of an economical way to put in an LSD rear end? Anyone run any 1/4's in their Z?

Almost any motor can be put in almost any car. The question you need to ask is how much fabrication is involved and how much of a gearing issue will you have? Sounds neat. There was a guy with a WVO 280Z for sale on ebay a while back. I also saw it in several magazines.

A v-8 would have to have much more hp to get the same power to weight. A 400 hp V-8 that weighs 2600 lbs would be slow compared to a 2100lb car with the same power. 2100 lbs and 400whp would require a V-8 to put out around 500hp at the wheels to get the same power to weight ratio. I was just mentioning that the power to weight of the car was what I consider optimal. Yes you can put as much hp as you want in a Z, but the more hp you have the more factory components you will have to replace. Frankly, I would worry about the stock rear end at 500whp. Most guys running numbers those big end up giving up their IRS so it doesn't explode.

Of course the KA can be built with all new parts. Forged connecting rods and pistons. That doesn't sound cheaper than an SR. Buy a crate SR or buy a KA for nothing then do a complete rebuild with all new internals. Then add a turbo kit. +Then you have a motor with parts you know. However, you have spent almost as much money. - you have less HP - you have more weight - you have less potential HP I don't mean to argue, but am I missing something here?

You people are crazy. Swap in a small truck motor??? The KA. I don't think you will save any weight and the motor puts out less hp stock than the L28e N/A. Tops hp for a reliable KA is 200whp on stock internals. Instead of putting in that little motor, how about real weight savings. I have a Kohler I will sell you. The motor weighs about 80 lbs. I am sure that with a little tweaking you could get 12 or maybe even 13 hp. But you would save a lot of weight and have all kinds of extra space for storage up front. I do mean to sound sarcastic, but, swapping in a small heavy inferior motor just doesn't make sense. The SR20DET is just as supported on the aftermarket, just not in the pick and pull. It is a lot lighter and can make huge hp on stock internals. I wonder if anyone has put a KA in a Silvia. That may be a good swap for you Olie.