Lewis Maudlin

yeah prolly a good idea. I mean will it fit? The question to ask is whether the underside of a 240sx is the same as the underside of a 240z... I think that would answer your question.

If anyone is looking for an SR20DET powered S30, I have listed mine for sale. It is sweet but I can't drive a stick for quite a while. Give it a look. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139826

OK, my car is detail in this forum quite a bit. I have an SR20DET in a 280Z. I redid the exterior, did the engine and drivetrain and have not done the interior. I have put $25000+ in building. Finally my setup is: SR20DET redtop GT2871R Nismo 740 CC injectors Power FC D-Jetro HKS BOV Splitfire Coilpacks Powerbrute Clutch LSD Tokico Illumina adjustable shocks Tokico springs Konig Rewinds and all the trimmings. I really haven't spared any expense. I drive it daily at 18psi. I get 30 mpg. I have had it weighed and it weighs 2480 lbs with a full tank of gas. The horsepower is between 350 and 400. Here are the issues I am having. The ACT HDSS clutch is slipping and I need to replace it with a $400 clutch. The body was mostly rust free, but I have a small rust bubble on the valance. I recently got about 10 hail dings. One of the fiberglass headlight buckets cracked, the paint cracked slightly in front of one of the wheels, I need to replace the floorpans. I purchased replacement floorpans but have not had them installed. I have almost no interior in the car since I took it out to clean. I am getting a little frustrated. I am considering selling the car. The other option would be transferring everything to a completely redone body. The other option would be to just fix the few things that are wrong with it. I now have a baby and never get an opportunity to work on my car. Suggestions are appreciated.

I run a Power FC D-Jetro. Nothing seems to be cutting out. I have driven the car about 15,000 miles and prolly did not break the clutch in properly. I figure I have at least 12.5% more torque than the max torque for the clutch. I looked at some more dynos and many are putting out in excess of 300 ft/lbs. This would put me more than 25% over max. Guess that is my problem.

Glazed clutch. Yeah, that is what it feels like. Makes sense. Guess I gotta drop the tranny and see.

The car is running fine. It has just lost some power. Instead of slamming you back in your seat when it hits 18psi, it just goes fast. The only things on the ignition system which are not new are the spark plugs. I am using the splitfire coilpack package. The car just feel like I am driving in mud.

OK, I have been driving my SR20DET equipped 280Z. It was the fastest car I had driven and faster than many motorcycles I have had. Anyway, lately, it doesn't seem that fast. I do not think this is a perceived slow down, but actual. Everything seems to be running fine. Maybe slightly louder. The car used to take off like crazy any time boost came in. Usually the tires turned. Now, it is just as loud but without the hardcore acceleration. I have noticed a bit of noise from the clutch when off the gas. This noise can be eliminated by pushing in the clutch. I am running an ACT HDSS clutch. I looked it up on the website. It is rated at 240ft lbs of torque. My car arguably has around 270 ft lbs of torque according to similar setups. Is this symptomatic of a slipping or wearing clutch. The last clutch I had that went out in another car simply went one day and the car would not go. There were no symptoms which I noticed. What do you guys think?

I am running a 3.90 LSD. I like it.

Are you going to increase the power output of the engine by replacing the turbo? If you are doing performance mods anyway, then I would get the S13. If you are not, then the S15 has more power out of the box. With the S15, you are paying for a better turbo and more power. 250hp v 200hp. Which really does matter if you are replacing the turbo and intend to put out 350 hp. The only justification which I can see to buy the more expensive engine is that it may be newer. The rest of the reason are pretty mute if you are tweaking the motor much.

Wow, that motor looks nice. Mine came looking trashed with dents and scratches on every piece. Who did you order your motor through?

I understand the problem.... You want cheap and economical and you live in CALIFORNIA. The amount of legislation in CA makes nothing cheap and economical.

I beg to differ, you can have your cake and eat it too. My 350-400 rwhp SR20DET gets 30+ mpg. I love my setup. I get 30+mpg and for comparison, I got 12 mpg out of my 355 sbc setup. I have a heavy foot, so a normal driver would probably get closer to 40 mpg.

Looks like he was following about 12" too closely

By adjust, do you mean dent slightly?

I get my replacement parts at the pick and pull or the local auto store. The starter, I had to get from Venus Auto. 400hp at the crank translates to 10's in a 2500 lb car. You need to add a driver, but you also need to add some horsepower since you are talking rwhp. So a 10 sec daily. Yes, mine is a good daily driver. It is crap in the rain though. I only daily mine at 18 psi with an initial spike to 20 psi. To get 400 hp, you probably need 23 psi. I also don't have cams so I estimate 350-360 rwhp. It is hot without AC, but I found the heat was coming from the shifter hole which I have sealed, so it is not bad. Vildini sells motor mounts.

Is anyone able to drive their hybridz on wet roads? I had to pull of the road and get a ride today b/c the road was soaked. My car behaved like it hit sheer ice. Granted, my tires are a little worn. Oh, and I did add the Powerbrute LSD. And I have around 400 whp. And the car only weighs 2480 with a full tank of gas. Just seems odd that I can't drive my car at even 20 mph on wet roads. I don't think my S30 with an sbc had this problem, but it wasn't LSD and did not have 400 at the wheels and didn't weigh in at 2480 lbs.

Yeah, he is kinda full of it. Not even close to the only diesel powered 280z

Well, 2480 without driver, passenger seat and spare but with 14 gallons of gas. Not too bad, I guess. Now to the dyno. Should be between 350 and 400 whp. It is amazing what you can blow off your engine running 20lbs of boost daily. Today, I blew apart my fitting for my brake vaccuum coming off my intake manifold. I am only running 18 lbs, but it spikes to 20lbs initially.

I weighed my car today. 2480 lbs. That was without a passenger seat. I have a 1978 280Z with an SR20DET and FMIC. I have a Powerbrute LSD and 3" Stainless exhaust. So, basically, 2500 lbs without a driver. That is with full interior.

Oh, to answer the question. Every person I know who has taken a scoped rifle to pig hunt has been very disappointed. It is hard to shoot a moving pig at 50 feet with a scoped rifle. A female friend of mine used her 20 gauge that worked fine. My recommendation would be a .270 or bigger rifle with open sights. If you wanna go cheap like you said, an SKS will work fine and give multiple shots. An AK-47 shoots the same ammo and kicks a lot less and has better accuracy imho but they cost more. A Remington 30-06 pump rifle would work too, but it will tear your shoulder off.

An acquaintance of mine was in his tree stand with a hunting knife when a deer walked under. Jerry, a Vietnam vet, looked at the deer and thought... boy, I have killed men and I have killed deer. I have killed deer every which way, with a gun, muzzleloader, bow, pistol... What would be really cool is if I jumped down and killed this buck with my hunting knife. Now Jerry was about 5'9" and 250 lbs. He jumped on the deer and stabbed it with his hunting knife. This made the deer angry. The deer stood there and pummelled Jerry in the chest and stomach. Every once in a while, the deer would start to leave and walk away. Then the deer would come back and punch Jerry in the chest some more. Jerry was lying on the ground by now. Eventually the deer left for the last time. It was after about 30 minutes of beating. Jerry went to the doctor and stayed in the hospital for a couple of weeks. When Jerry got out, he told me that the deer had killed him. Apparently, the deer had so irreparably damaged his liver that he was given 2 years to live. A year and a half later, Jerry went in the hospital and eventually died of liver failure. If Bambi can do that, imagine what Pumbaa can do. By the way, I think Jerry should have won the Darwin award for the decade.

I am 99% sure that my Datsun would not run with Mustang parts. The mustang I had would not keep running with mustang parts either.

Same power and better gas mileage is why to do SR20DET. My V-8 swap with aluminum heads and a fairly build 355 sbc only put out close to 400 hp at the crank. My SR20DET puts that out at the wheels and gets 30mpg. My V-8 only got 12 mpg

Why do you bother posting here? Seems like your post was an argument rather than a question or helpful information. Aren't you the same guy that said your friend swapped SR20DET's into Z's for like $1800 in 6 hours until I called BS. If your quote is what you believe, build a KA24DET.

One day I accepted a challenge from a Rodder in an old school rod with no hood, a big block and huge MT's. It was until the top of third gear that my little Z pulled away. The next day, a car pulled up beside me on a four lane revving, squealing its brakes and revving some more. It was a bunch of idiot kids in thier mom's cadillac STS. I ignored them. Why bother.