Miles
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Posts posted by Miles
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8 hours ago, JMortensen said:
FWIW, I had a brand new brake system with new calipers, hard lines, soft lines, and dual masters that wouldn't bleed. Tried by myself, with help, with a mity vac and couldn't get a good pedal. What finally worked for me was using a 60cc food syringe and putting the fluid in through the bleeders at the calipers. I think there was a bubble that just wouldn't come out of the masters no matter what I did, but pushing the fluid backwards dislodged it.
I have done the same thing bleeding calipers and master cylinders. Works.
The other thing some members have had to do was to remove the caliper while connected to the brake hose and shake the bubble towards the bleeder while bleeding. Seems to be a problem where the bleeder is not positioned vertically. This is where a power bleeder comes in handy. Just be sure to block the piston in the caliper so it doesn't get pushed out. If the piston pops out you will be sad.
I am now wondering if he has non-stock calipers on the front.
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On 5/2/2019 at 1:08 PM, Twisted46 said:
Thanks Miles,
I will search and check that too. I did note that the MCs looked nearly identical to each other before installing but who knows. I have spent no less than 20 hours on brakes, is suppose it is on of Z right of passage? like the spindle pins..... and everything else lol.
Please post a picture of your front calipers.
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Again I ask, what size MC did you install?
Calipers require a larger volume of fluid.
So the pedal goes low because the MC has to pump more fluid.
You may have to install a 15/16 or 1 in. MC
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one more thing to check.
There is a push rod between the booster and the MC piston. The rod is adjustable. When you change MCs you have to adjust the push rod because the piston socket depth is different between the 7/8 MC and the 15/16 MC. Look it up.
If the push rod is adjusted too long the brakes will lock up because the longer push rod prevents the piston from retracting all the way which blocks the fluid return port inside the MC. This will result in your brakes locking up after a few stops. If this happens while road testing just open the MC bleed screws and limp home and readjust the push rod.
If the push rod is too short you will experience a long pedal because the piston is not pushed far enough to fully engage the brakes. That is, the piston is not pushing enough fluid. Your brakes will feel mushy and you will experience a pedal with long travel before engaging the piston
Do a search for push rod adjustment. It is critical to properly functioning brakes and brake feel.
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Do your speed bleeders work with your Motive power bleeder ?
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2 hours ago, jhm said:
The correct Russell P.N. for the fronts is #639560. I have them in my car and they work fine. Do you recall what part number yours are?
IIRC, the MC uses the same size as the stock rear drums.
Yep, p/n 639560 for the front calipers
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Edit
Earl's speed bleeders from Summit. They come in several lengths.
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3 minutes ago, Twisted46 said:
I messed with it for another hour and still nothing. I need more brake fluid and patience to keep going. The new master is allowing fluid to travel between the reservoirs which does not seem correct.
And I bench bled the ports but not the bleeders. I will try all 4 at once when I have enough hose.
See my last post. If you gutted the PV you may have now tied the front and rear brake circuits together which would explain fluid flowing between the tanks.
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You gutted the OEM proportioning valve?
The 240Z PV can be gutted as it only effects the rear brake circuit. Not sure about the 260Z and 280Z PVs, but you may have just tied the front and back hydraulic circuits together. Somebody chime in on this.
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47 minutes ago, NewZed said:
Maybe try old school bleeding methods before the pressure bleeder. As Miles suggests there might be air in the MC. An air bubble might not get pushed out of the MC by a pressure bleeder if the MC is "nose up". Be the air bubble...where would you hide?
^^Yep ^^
Like this.....................................
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Bench bleed the MC properly and repost.
I Assume you installed a 15/16 or 1 inch MC.
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2 hours ago, Box5 said:
Hey NewZed, thanks for reply, i'm just north of Seattle. I did see the new/reman units with the clevis, that might be the last resort, or make a custom clevis.
The Tilton MC from what i've read comes with pushrod only, people seem to cut the nut off their stock Z clevis and weld a 5/16-24 nut in its place to match the Tilton Pushrod thread.
I'll measure the hole on the clutch pedal for pin size, because these might work as well:
I have swapped the 240z push rod with clevis into the Tilton/Wilwood MC. There is a snap ring that holds the rod in place.
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Look at the rocker inside the TS switch in the video. See the center stalk that pushes the rockers? There should be a small ball bearing with a spring in the center stalk.
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Jegs, Summit and Speedway show a brake booster clevis 3/8-24 thread. Not sure of thread type for the 240Z/280Z.
They also sell push rod extension kits.
I seem to recall (10 years ago) that the 240Z and 280s push rods were of different diameters and he clevis pins were different . When I swapped in a 280Z booster into my 240Z I swapped the 240Z push rod into the 280Z booster so I could use the 240Z clevis.
My pedal has some slack, but the clevis is adjusted all the way out. If you find a way to lengthen the clevis post your solution here.
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18 hours ago, rheckz said:
Looking for feedback on interior sound with this set up.
The Duels I have now end up with deep drone at certain RPM.
Very quiet inside.
Depends on interior insulation and muffler choice.
No problems in ten years.
WOT is very loud. But I seldom use WOT.
Video:
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See my layout here
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What year 240Z, 260Z, 280Z?
Topic has been covered extensively. Search the forums.
Could be the combination/turn signal switch.
Suggest that you search "turn signal switch repair" etc.
Could be a simple loose wire or burned out bulb.
Down load the electrical schematic for your car (available here or at other websites).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exeIsC70F_o
https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34330-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining/
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Check out the rear springs, take some pictures, and post your findings here.
The previous owner may have cut the springs, installed softer, or progressive rate, springs etc.
At some point you may want to rebuild/upgrade the stock suspension: shocks, springs, polyurethane bushings, insulators etc. Makes for a huge improvement in handling and ride.
Recommend stiffer springs that maintain stock ride height for a street car. The 240Z is low enough.
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No (Low) Rear Brake Pressure
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Look here:
http://www.classicperform.com/TechBook/BrakeTroubleshoot.htm