Miles
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Posts posted by Miles
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You sure that the top wire goes into the engine? May have originally connected to the fluid level sensors in the MC tanks.
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Please let us know what MSA says.
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49 minutes ago, ~KnuckleDuster~ said:
Correct power is on both side of STOP bus bar with the fuse removed & ignition in the on position. Makes me think it's a manufacturing issue with the new box. Prior to install I had just drove the car to turn it around in the garage and replaced the fuse box.
Never had any real wiring issues before this. A clue!. The hazards don't work anyway so I'm thinking about just leaving this fuse out completely.
I don't like the idea of masking a potential problem but the idea of having to comb through all the wiring under the dash to just have the new fuse box just be the issue is a bit of a turn off. Don't do things like that. Work it out. If things worked before installing the new fuse box, then it is the box or how you installed it and not the wiring under the dash.
Do you think it's worthy of contacting MSA about it? It is just a phone call.
I guess the only true test would be to put the old fuse box back in and see if there's power to both sides of that fuse.. Takes 5 minutes. Do it. The objective is to repeat the original behavior you saw after the new fuse box was installed. If the problems goes away then it has to be the fuse box or you made a mistake
Work logically.
The first question I ask people with a sudden electrical problem is: what was the last thing you did just before the electrical problem occurred?
For example, a guy with a 240z kept blowing a fuse for the side marker and dash lights every time he turned the lights on. He just kept replacing the fuse each time this happened. So I asked him: "what was the last thing you did to the car before it started blowing fuses?" He replied "I removed the right rear marker light and replaced it" Turned out he mixed up the ground and power wires so each time he turned on the lights there was a dead short in the lighting circuit.
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What car 240z, 280z etc?
Any wiring modifications?
Re-install the original fuse box to see if it behaves the same way which will eliminate the new fuse box as the problem.
You could pull one fuse at a time to isolate the problem to a specific circuit and then go from there.
A call to MSA may help. Kinda depends on which MSA tech you get.
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Yes. I used an AN flex line and adapter to eliminate the bridge tube. See photo.
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When I was considering rewiring one of my 240Z cars, I researched EZ wiring. There are a bunch of tutorials on HybridZ and other Z sites. I recall one member made a pdf wiring list that showed the brake wire connections. The brake lights are actually controlled through the T/S switch. For example, when making a right turn the T/S switch disables the right brake light etc.
Some HybridZ links:
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On 6/4/2019 at 5:18 PM, Greennovass said:
How long does it take to do this conversion?
Want to do it on a 64 chevy nova. This is a Z car site. You may want to visit a Chevy website.
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Getting started:
- Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM).
- Buy the Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual from Jags that Run (JTR).
- Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color
- Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.
- Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.
- Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!
- Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
- Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
- Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions.
- Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs
Links:
https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
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Looks like you have the correct sensor. The sensor could be defective.
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Sounds like you have altered the stock wiring. So the following may or may not help you, but may serve as a process of elimination as you trace your electrical problem.
Possibilities:
- Wrong oil pressure sensor?
- A wiring alteration is energizing the oil pressure sensor circuit when the ignition switch is in the start position and then de-energizes when the switch is released to run mode. Check the ignition, fuel pump and starting circuit wires. Check the circuits that have been altered to see if they have been cross connected to the oil pressure sensor.
- Test: connect a volt meter to the yellow and black oil pressure sensor wire. Note what the volt meter does as you turn the ignition switch slowly to each position on the switch. This will narrow down which wires to inspect.
Look at/test these wires at each position on the ignition switch :
- Yellow-black - oil pressure sending unit
- Black-white (without protective sleeve) - tach terminal on HEI distributor
- Black-white (with protective sleeve) - battery terminal on HEI distributor
- Black-yellow - S terminal on starter
- Black-blue - energizes the fuel pump while cranking (260z and 280Z only). Note: 240z uses a green-white wire to run the fuel pump while cranking (energized just before start position on ignition switch.
This is just a starting point. You have some detective work ahead of you.
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Check your wiring to the oil pressure switch, oil pressure safety switch etc.
If you followed JTR then your pressure switch and oil pressure safety switch should look like the attached picture.
Post the wire list you used for the oil pressure switch etc and where each wire is connected.
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Do a Google search of Hybridz.org:
Copy and paste into the Google search window: site: hybridz.org "brake upgrades"
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Read the brake FAQs and search the brake forum.
Also search the internet by typing "240z brake upgrades".
Note: stock brakes are fine
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Welcome
You may find this information useful:
- · Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html
- · Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color.
- · Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.
- · Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.
- · Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!
- · For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy. Buy the "Just SUs" video.
- · Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
- · Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
- · Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions.
- · Search the Hybridz forums.
- · Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs
Links:
https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness
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I was going to suggest you contact Randy, but I no longer have his contact info. He used to advertise on Sacramento Craigslist.
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13 minutes ago, himself said:
Thanks Jester. I did an '82 L28 turbo swap almost 2 decades ago and overhauled the electrical system with a megasquirt upgrade with a LC-1 wideband, electronic spark distribution, and 4x4 disc brake upgrade many years back and these forums were invaluable for the information to make those work at the time so it was rather frustrating to provide the part number, wiring diagram, name of the part, and a photo of a simple module yet somehow no one knew what I was talking about in a forum dedicated to this car model.
Thanks for the contact Miles, one of my local parts guy's, Randy, found a working module from a '77 and the blinkers are working again.
Would that be Randy of Citrus Heights?
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Welcome
You may find this information useful:
- · Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html
- · Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color.
- · Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.
- · Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.
- · Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!
- · For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy. Buy the "Just SUs" video.
- · Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
- · Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
- · Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions.
- · Search the Hybridz forums.
- · Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs
Links:
https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness
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In your part search contact Eric Neyerlin at https://zparts.com/
541-670-7310
Eric has been collecting and selling Z parts for over 20 years
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The part number you gave is for a relay inhibitor switch.
You sure it is part of the light circuit?
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-relay-inhib-sw~b5230-89985.html
The right half of your schematic is missing. Here is the complete schematic which shows the combination switch (lights, wiper, washer and turn signal). The combination switch is located on the steering column:
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Contacts in the TS switch need to be cleaned and/or adjusted .
Common problem for all Z cars.
You can repair the TS switch.
Search for turn signal repair.
Start here:
https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/
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2 hours ago, seattlejester said:
Question, this picture is in reference to the flange on the master correct? So between this and the booster there should be the aluminum spacer right?
You measure from the face of the aluminum spacer on the booster to the tip of the push rod.
So, if you replaced the stock 7/8 MC with a 15/16 MC, which has a deeper socket, you adjust the push rod out 0.53"as measured from from the face of the aluminum spacer.
The 0.53" is a starting point. You may have to fine tune the push rod length by making small changes and then road test the car to make sure the rod is as close as possible to the bottom of the MC socket without pushing the piston too far inward which will cause the brakes to drag or lockup.
If the push rod is adjusted too long, the piston will block the return port in the MC and the brakes lock up after 2 or 3 stops. If this happens, open the MC bleeders to relieve the built up fluid pressure, limp home, and adjust the push rod a little shorter etc etc.
If the pedal moves too much before engaging the MC you will need to lengthen the push rod in small increments.
Note that you do not have to remove the MC to perform this adjustment. Just remove the mounting nuts and then pull the MC out and push it aside.
There is also a tool to measure push rod length.
1971 240z Refurbish in Denver
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted · Edited by Miles
Welcome
Useful information
Links:
https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness
http://zhome.com/
https://www.zcar.com/
https://www.classiczcars.com/
http://www.zcarparts.com/
http://www.arizonazcar.com/
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
http://www.ztherapy.com/
http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html