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Miles

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Posts posted by Miles

  1. On my carbed SBC I removed the vapor tank and sealed all of the ports on the tank except the fuel pick tube and one port on the top of the "bulge" part of the tank. I ran that one vent line to the neck of the filler tube so air could escape as the tank was filling up into the "bulge" part of the tank. 

     

    If the tank is completely sealed, a vacuum will develop as fuel is drawn out of the tank. To prevent the vacuum, I drilled a very small hole in the filler cap.

     

    Other consideration: with the vapor tank removed, do not top off the tank when filling up.  On hot days the gas will expand and run out of the cap.  Done this for 20 years with no problems.

     

     

     

    1050239655_ventlines.thumb.JPG.ddec131e396f79c36f716217317f73a6.JPG

     

  2. Most likely a bad ground in the brake light harness at the back of the car. Pull out the rear panel and look for the ground wires and clean up their attachment points.

     

    Also could be a dirty lamp socket.  Pull the bulb and check the socket.

     

    Suggest that you down load a schematic for your car.  You are  going to need it as a Z owner.  Ditto a Factory Service Manual (FSM).

  3. The strap is no longer required.  The  stock rubber differential mount you replaced would flex and rip apart eventually. Nissan installed the strap to keep the nose of the differential from pitching up under load.

     

    For normal daily driving the solid mount works well.  But the racers have reported that under hard driving  the front cross member can crack and/or pull the center bolt through the cross member. I installed solid mounts in both of my Z cars 20 years ago and have not had a problem.

     

    Cars present us with lessons.  The lesson is repeated until we get it and then we get another lesson etc etc.

  4. 4 hours ago, p7x said:

    Gents you are bolder than I am. Slowly building my skills and know how with basics tools. 

     

    Was hoping the mount swap would fix the clunking in the rear end. Just got the car and This year I just need to keep it in running / driving condition until next year when I can actually start restoring it. 

     

    Thanks for the replies. I’ll update the thread on how things go. 

     

     

    Check out the "Clunk"  here:  

     

  5. Welcome to Hybridz.

     

    The most efficient  way to search Hybridz is to do a Google search using the following format:

     

    site:  hybridz.org   "topic in quotes"   For example,  site:  hybridZ.org   "R200"

     

     

    Useful information

    • Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM).  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329
    • Download electrical schematics for your car.  PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color.
    • Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.
    • Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.
    • Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!
    • Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
    • Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
    • Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to   answer informed questions.
    • Search the Hybridz forums.
    • Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs

    Links:

    https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness

    http://zhome.com/

    https://www.zcar.com/

    https://www.classiczcars.com/

    http://www.zcarparts.com/

    http://www.arizonazcar.com/

    http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

    http://www.ztherapy.com/

    http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

  6. You need more leverage.  Use a 2 ft. long pipe as a lever i.e., put the pipe over the wrench handle to extend the length.

     

    For example, I couldn't get the nuts on the stub axles to break loose. Tried an air impact wrench. The nuts wouldn't budge. So I got a 4 ft length of pipe and slipped it over the handle of a 1/2 drive ratchet wrench. The nut broke loose instantly.

  7. So if you turn the ignition switch to "run",  pull the wire that connects to the temperature probe and then ground the wire,  the temp gauge should go all the way to full hot.

     

    If, while performing this test, the gauge bounces around, then there is an issue with the sensor wire or the gauge. Could be loose or dirty connections.

     

    These links may be of some help:

     

     

     

    https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/280481-oil-temp-gauge-not-working.html

     

    https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/47277-temp-gauge-not-working.html

     

  8. Many R200 3.9 differentials used in Z cars.  Pick one and you will be miles ahead.............................

     

    http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

     

    240Z        70-73   MT       (3.364) (R180)
    
    240Z        70-73   MT 5spd. (3.900) (R180) - non US
    
    240Z        71-73   Auto     (3.545) (R180)
    
    
    
    260Z        74      MT       (3.364) (R180)
    
    260Z        74      Auto     (3.545) (R180)
    
    
    
    280Z        75-76            (3.545) (R200)
    
    280Z        77-78   MT       (3.545) (R200)
    
    280Z        77-78   Auto     (3.545) (R180)
    
    
    
    280ZX       79      MT,4 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180)
    
    280ZX       79      MT,5 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180)
    
    280ZX       79      All With Automatic(3.545) (R180)
    
    280ZX       79      MT,4 Spd,4 Seater (3.364) (R200)
    
    280ZX       79      MT,5 Spd,4 Seater   (3.7) (R200)
    
    280ZX-GL    79                          (3.7) (R200)
    
    
    
    280ZX       80      MT,2 Seater       (3.545) (R180)
    
    280ZX       80      Automatic 2/4Seat (3.545) (R180)
    
    280ZX       80      MT,4 Seater         (3.9) (R200)
    
    280ZX-GL    80                          (3.9) (R200) 
    
    
    
    280ZX       81-83   Automatic all     (3.545) (R180)
    
    280ZX       81-83   Turbo - all       (3.545) (R200)
    
    280ZX       81-83   MT                  (3.9) (R200)
    
     - - - - 300ZX's - - - - - -- -
    
    300ZX       84-86   MT and A/T          (3.7)  (R200)
    300ZX       84-86   Turbo MT and A/T    (3.54) (R200)
    300ZX       87-89   MT and A/T          (3.9 ) (R200)
    300ZX       87-89   MT and A/T          (3.9 ) (R200)
    300ZX       87-89   Turbo MT and A/T    (3.7 ) (R200)
                Note Turbos: 
                #1) after 4/87 only-(3.7 Clutch Type LSD)
                 2) 88 All White SS used a 3.7 Viscous Coupling LSD)
                 3) LSD Unites Came With Finned Rear Covers
    

    Additional Comments: a) Viscous Coupling LSD requires special splined half shafts - b) 84-87 R200's can be used in earlier cars, but require modifications they are not direct bolt in swapable to 240/260/280Z/280ZX's c) 84-89 R200's used a 12mm bolt in the ring gear - earlier R200 used a 10mm bolt in the ring gear, so you can not swap Gear Sets with the older R200's


     

  9. Steering rack parts have been NLA for many years. 

     

    So called  "rebuilt steering racks" also need those same NLA parts.

     

    Always ask the dealer if the rebuilt/new  rack actually has new parts in it.

     

    If you search HybridZ you will see this topic was beat to death years ago.

     

    If you find the parts you need post the supplier here for us.

  10. What you have here is known as a Kluge: a collection of ill fitting parts forming a disgusting whole.

     

    Looks like the PO used hard lines that were too long. To get the lines to fit he took up the extra length by coiling the hard lines.

     

    The lines are not anchored correctly.  Get rid of the yellow zip ties and do it right.

     

    Replace the hard lines with stock lines or make your own. 

     

    If you are not up to making your own hard lines find a shop or web site that can make the lines at the correct length.

     

    Note: the fittings on Z cars are all 10 x 1.0mm double inverted flare.

  11. With the one inch MC you will notice that it takes more pedal force to stop the car. If you are going to larger calipers on the front then you will be all set.  Even with the one inch MC you may still notice longer pedal travel before the brakes engage after you install larger front calipers. It is kind of a domino effect when modifying brake systems.

  12. 42 minutes ago, pinbill said:

    I bought the book from amazon for $25. It will be here tomorrow with free one day shipping. Amazing.

     

    I would do the cardone replacement but I am having a hard time finding a master cylinder that is an early style tandem with the large reservoir in front.

     

    Some after market master cylinders do not have the large reservoir in front. As long as the master cylinder is correct in all other aspects then it doesn't matter. You can always swap the front reservoir from the old master cylinder onto the new one for a "stock" appearance.

    • Like 1
  13. Welcome

    Useful information

    • ·       Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM).  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329

    • ·       Download electrical schematics for your car.  PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color.

    • ·       Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.

    • ·       Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.

    • ·       Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!

    • ·       Buy the Datsun V8 Conversion Manual from Jags That Run  (JTR).

    • ·       Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.

    • ·       Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.

    • ·       Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to   answer informed questions.

    • ·       Search the Hybridz forums.

    • ·       Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs

    Links:

    https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness

    http://zhome.com/

    https://www.zcar.com/

    http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/

    http://www.zcarparts.com/

    http://www.arizonazcar.com/

    http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

    http://www.ztherapy.com/

    http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html


  14. Welcome

     

    Useful information

    • ·       Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM).  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329

    • ·       Download electrical schematics for your car.  PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color.

    • ·       Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.

    • ·       Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.

    • ·       Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!

    • ·       For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy.  Buy the "Just SUs" video.

    • ·       Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.

    • ·       Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.

    • ·       Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to   answer informed questions.

    • ·       Search the Hybridz forums.

    • ·       Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs

    Links:

    https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness

    http://zhome.com/

    https://www.zcar.com/

    http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/

    http://www.zcarparts.com/

    http://www.arizonazcar.com/

    http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

    http://www.ztherapy.com/

    http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

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