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JohnH

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About JohnH

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  • Birthday 05/07/1967

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    Toronto

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  1. Doesn't mean its incorrect either! Weber DCOE's have an accelerator pump that is activated when the throttle level is pushed from closed position. So unless you are running a large ratio of bleed back valve to pump jet size only a couple of pumps are required to adequately prime the engine for startup or in the higher ratio case a few extra pumps on the throttle.
  2. Another possibility might be the steep ramps on a high lift re-ground cam. Re-grinding a stock l-28 cam to a higher lift does change the ramped geometry as oppose to grinding a new cam on a full material blank billet. I have as spare a re-grind on a Nissan stock cam of a 530 lift Isky cam that has really steep ramp profile & less material at the lobe tips then my new Isky cam of the same spec. The cam was passed on to me as a spare a while ago & have not run it as of yet. Just something I noticed when comparing both cams so I'm just throwing it out there that it might be indicative of wear on a high lift re-grind. Others would have to chime in on their re-ground cam lifespans.
  3. Never needed chokes on my triple 45 Webers. A couple of pumps on the throttle pedal before cranking it cold & it fires up. In fact I removed the chokes & replaced them with block off plates.
  4. I'm in the same situation. I have an early 70 240Z (69 build date). I was thinking of going this route with the T3 moustache bar & the Subaru R180. What year longer drive shaft did you use to connect to the Z transmission? Could you have also flipped the T3 moustache bar around?
  5. I'm interested in this also. From my research I believe you can obtain roughly 3 liters using the stock L28 crank, CH 29mm pistons & 137.5 rods. My personal view is the stock L28 was de-tuned by Nissan. There is no reason an N/A performance engine should not be making 100hp per liter or there about. I believe part of the de-tuning is with the crank to rod ratio & the choked head & exhaust with the L series. LD28 cranks are getting rare & expensive almost to the price point of a brand new after market version that is superior, has pre-testing & some sort a warranty behind it. Would be interesting to hear other peoples thoughts on optimum crank & rod ratios for the L28.
  6. I was one of the few early customers that had their newly offered BHJ aluminum damper for the L28 fail in the sleeve mount area back about 10 years ago (there were a few others on this board as well). There is a Rockwell difference in the aluminum sleeve mount & the forged steel crankshaft. The damper came loose & the key on the crankshaft deformed the aluminum key way on the sleeve. This may have been caused by using the stock crankshaft damper mounting bolt & washer. I repaired the key way on the damper with JB weld & got the larger Nismo race damper bolt & washer. The washer in the race bolt set up is a stepped configuration. It appears to have been a successful fix. The key way's main function is for position of the damper vs the actual clamping force of the damper to the crankshaft. The crankshaft bolt & washer is where the clamping action is & should take place. BHJ did not have a disclaimer/warning/recommendation of using the stock bolt vs the larger racing bolt & washer at the time they first offered the damper. I believe BHJ has since moved to a steel sleeve mount damper. At any rate it is highly recommended to use the race bolt application for any aftermarket damper.
  7. I'm also interested in the Moroso oil pan. Does anyone know the width dimensions of the pan reservoir? Descriptions have it at 6.25'' deep with no width measurements. I'm concerned about exhaust routing interference as I have a 3/4" Nismo style SS header.
  8. I believe Adam Carolla has Newmans 300ZX.
  9. I have 2 oil pumps (one on the car & spare). They have been both swapped around a couple of times so I can't remember which came with the engine. Its an F54 block. One is labeled H 18 and the other H 6. Both have the same logo as on the H 28 & H 4 pictured in the first post. Does anyone know what oil pumps these are stock on? I'm looking to increase oil flow to the head on a hunch that I have not enough flow up there. Thanks.
  10. ACT strikes again. I was having the same problem with poor 1st & reverse engagement. I purchased the ACT road race clutch with 6 puck disc from MSA around 2008 - 2010. I have not put allot of miles on the car since installing the clutch (maybe 2.5k or less). At the end of 2015 driving season I started to get poor engagement of 1st & reverse. I thought it was my hydraulic system going. Replacing MC & slave helped a little but problem came back. Installing a longer slave pin helped for a bit then problem came back. I notice that the problem occurred once the car was warmed up & the clutch used for a little bit it would start to have the mentioned engagement problems. Came across this thread on HyrbidZ in my long quest for answers. Decided I needed to pull the transmission & inspect what was going on. Sure enough loose hollow rivets holding the spring diaphragm to the clutch body. Replaced the clutch & disc with a Centreforce II along with fork, collar & throw out bearing. When can the engineers stop screwing up?
  11. I used the front to back string method to square up the rear track. You can't just bolt these rear control arms on & then use camber plates & walk away. Camber plates give you the total toe measurement of both wheels which is then divided by 2. But what if one wheel is further out of camber then the opposite? The thrust angle is out? To start with mounting the rear control arms 1) outboard length even on both sides with as close to neutral toe as you can get 2) Thrust angle set by taking measurements from a set points on the frame to wheel hub or tire - there are washers that act as shims on spindle pins to align this 3) camber set (if available) 4) Toe set by front to back string method. The PITA problem is when doing the toe I found the adjusters binding so I had to basically set the strings, measure, lift rear of vehicle, adjust, drop vehicle, reset string, measure results - repeat as necessary. I have not taken it to a alignment shop because of the aftermarket suspension parts on it. I need to find a shop that I can work along side the tech to make these adjustments.
  12. I have the TTT rear control arms for several years. They are a decent product however as stated on the TTT website "They are adjustable on car." is a half truth. They are only adjustable on the car with the weight off the rear wheels. The inherent design flaw of a single control arm spindle pin running through both adjusters makes it bind when trying to adjust toe especially while the suspension is loaded. It does not compensate for the lengthening & shortening of distances between the adjusters on the spindle pin & thus binding occurs. Makes it a major PITA to adjust rear toe while the wheels are not planted on the ground.
  13. I do not doubt the quality of workmanship on these headers as I was looking into them about 8 months ago through MJP but unfortunately they could not fullfil the order due to being in the midst of moving their business. I am interested in the full race header however Sean must confirm that this header clears steering components on left hand drive vehicles I suspect others here in North America are intersted in the race header as well & are waiting on this confirmation before making a purchase.
  14. This looks very promissing. There is a definite void in a good quality race header in North America for L-series engines. Some questions: 1) Did you used to sell through MJP Eastern Auto? 2) Do all the headers clear left hand drive S30 & S130 chassis? 3) What wall size & type of stainless are you using? 4) It appears from the photos that the race header has equal length primaries vs the street. Is this correct & what length are the equal length primaries? 5) What is the collector to exhaust pipe size? I'm assuming that 2.5" is it based on header back exhaust you are also selling. Just nice to confirm. 6) Are the prices in U.S. dollars or GBP? Thanks for your time.
  15. My take on Datsun Z Fiberglass is its just another Show Cars-Body-Parts operation. Meaning - has a website with all kinds of products that uses ripped from the net photos to illustrate the product but actually has no moulds made for the products advertised. The lag time between ordering & beyond said fulfillment deadline would indicate that this individual is running around trying to find a part to make a mould from or is making it from scratch to no avail.
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