Tim240z

Guy...to be certain, just drop TC an email. They are very good at responding. Tim

It was different a little as 3 years ago when 93 was available. The octane was changed to 91 as the 93 CA spec formula was privately held and for cost savings it was dropped to 91 to avoid paying the cost of the 93 octane formula. As fo 30 years ago.....I was still messing my diapers Tim

I bet the unibody is twisted. At a minimum, take it to a bodyshop to have it checked if you plan to keep it. If it's bent, I wouldn't bother with it.....not like it's a '56 Ferrari or anything....

Keep in mind that the return line from the fuel rail is also feeding the surge tank. Also remember that a fuel injected engine uses no more fuel than a carby engine, just needs more pressure, not more volume. So, the extra fuel that bypasses the injectors is going back to the surge tank, plus the fuel from the low pressure pump.....there is wayyyy more fuel being supplied to the surge tank that the engine could ever use. And, I would imagine that the surge tank is actually seeing about 2-3psi of pressure because of all the excess fuel being supplied to it......besides all that...it works......I used it.....

Since the tubing is 'after' the air cleaner, would the tubing not rust and 'flake' off and go into the intake? [edit]Alex, sorry for the hijack[/edit]

Ya know....sarcasm is not a form of humor It is pretty tough to get good coverage on the inside of the tubing, esp. once it has been welded in fairly long lengths, with bends and all....I guess a person could always pour in a pint of paint and slosh it around a while, then pour out the excess...... Tim

John, What about the rust factor? Wouldn't going with steel incur additional costs to have the tubing coated/powdercoated to prevent rusting?

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=94570&highlight=fuel+surge+tank

That is the reason I put in a surge tank with a low pressure pump...that way I could also turn the cell to face forward and not have the outlets sticking out the rear. As a byproduct of the surge tank, my fuel pump noise went down DRASTICALLY. It must be a result of it being given pressure on the inlet instead of it trying to suck the fuel in...... Tim

Keep in mind that no where in the Country do houses appreciate Statewide like they do in CA. Sure the traffic sucks, and the left wing politics blow, and taxes are high, but I've made 200% on my house in 6 years. (just had it appraised for a refi two days ago). The median price for a single family home in my little coastal neighborhood is $465 per sqft. I WILL eventually move out of CA, but I certainly will not sell my real estate here.

It is Owen's picture....I believe scanned from a Japanese comic. Tim

It was a figure of speech

Sheees....some people are just so greedy!! You are just too popular, man.....

I am doing the exact same thing, so this post is quite timely. This is what I was planning (I will also be speaking to my Brother-in-Law, a general contractor): I have a 220V outlet that I had installed way back for my welder. My new compressor will be in the shed behind the garage (3/4" conduit pre-run prior to the slab being poured). I will put in a switch up stream of the existing 220V outlet (welder), and run new wire to the shed. The switch will allow EITHER the welder's outlet, or the compressor's outlet to get juice, but not both at the same time. That should satisfy the amperage load issues? Tim

Again, I don't think that they are designed for high temp service, but maybe a diesel expert can chime in.

In a word....No. You will need to find a pump that is designed for oil service.

John....you have the patience of a Saint!! I would have driven that thing off a cliff long ago!! Sorry, but I just don't know enough about the ZXs (or anything else for that matter) to help out, but are certainly having your share of troubles with that thing!! Tim

Try this. http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php? Several have used them successfully, but it seems to be a pricey and not so 'painless' alternative. Tim

Ernie strikes again!!

Wait to do the cam until you figure out what heads you plan to use, which may effect your static compression ratio, and thus you cam choice. Remember, parts work best when chosen to compliment each other, rather than just putting together a mish-mash of parts....Put your pennies away and get a kit from one of several manufacturers that are desinged to work well together (Holley, Edelbrock etc all sell matched kits) Tim

Nothing at all special about the 'double hump' heads....their reputation is from really old school hot rods when nothing better was available. Nowadays, even the cheapest of aftermarket heads flow better. Save your money for some decent heads.... If you want to stay with iron heads for the cost, look at the Iron Eagle heads, or many others that are good and inexpensive.....pass on the old school stuff.....

If you are on a tight budget, and are planning to replace the intake anyways, then the Vortecs are excellent heads. They outflow many of the good aftermarket heads. But, if you can afford it, go with aluminum to shave some weight. I have the Vortecs in my truck (71 Chevy) and they are great, but the weight on the nose of the truck isn't much of an issue... Tim

Damn Bart!! Thaht Thahr be a purddy enjin!! Waddya mean "change the purple to blue"...the nerve of some people!! BTW...the last 2 parts you need will go out in the mail with your apparrel order this week...they are sitting on my garage floor. Tim

Thanks man....don't sweat it if its a pain!