ZDrifter

Starts hesitating around higher rpm's like its losing fuel but it doesnt backfire or anything like its running rich. In first gear it will do it almost immidiatley after reaching 9lbs of boost. 2nd gear gets a lil better but all gears wont reach up into the rev's like they should. I need to get it back down to 7psi and see if it still does it. I have a rb25det and it does have a thermostat and it warms up to operating temp. Im running NGK'S not sure of part number but they are gapped at .030.

Im from Oregon city, in Avondale Arizona right now for college, but ill be back:icon10:

Checked my fuel pressure today and its at 50psi. A lil high im thinkin.. So should I bring it down to around 42? And change out my fuel filter and lines around it and see what happens? But I will just keep it around 10psi boost until I get a standalone. Anyone ever try GREDDY E Manage??

Where in Oregon are you from?

Theres no fuse for the fuel pump or no fuse their period?? if there is no fuse in the slot then stick one in and you should be good. I will check my box to see where my fuse is

Get a test light out and start from your fuse box and work your way back to the fuel pump to check for power. Check for power at fuse box and if you have power then go to the power cable for the fuel pump and check. If you dont have power then its somewhere in the line after the fuse box, if you do its your pump. if you dont have power at all check your fuse in the fuse box and then check for power behind the fuse box. If you have power behind then your fuse is bad. If you dont then trace that wire to where ever it goes. Its a cat and mouse game, sooner or later you'll win... Good luck Also make sure you dont have the wires mixed up on the fuel pump and check your grounds. I believe the 260's have a connection for fuel injection power behind the passenger under the carpet check there too.

I think I may have found part of the problem. I have been having hard starts lately in the morning and I think my fuel filter is bad. Also I am using the stock L28 Style fuel filter so could there be a problem with fuel delivery because of that??? Im thinking I will get a 300zxtt fuel filter along with new lines from the filter (cuz i need em haha) and see if that helps out at all. And when i say hard starts, it starts up in the morning when its cold but put puts and dies, after about 3 times it will fire right up.

Thanks for the suggestions. I know that I didnt want to mess with the stock ECU and everything is set from the factory for a reason. It'd just be best to keep it at 7psi until I get a tunable ECU. I want to try adapting megasquirt with the RB since I havent seen it done yet. I think I should just move to Japan also, they have everything better there:grin:

Stock RB25 with front mount inter. Stock Ecu, SARD fuel pressure regulator and ill have to check fuel pressure again last time it was set it was set by another shop and whatever stock fuel pressure is at, walbro 255, turbo back 3 inch, manual boost controller set at 11psi, plug gap is at .030. And it doesnt matter warm or cold it hits fuel cut. I tried goin down to 10psi and it still hits fuel cut. Any Ideas??

Hey Guys, I just got a boost controller on the Z and finally a boost gauge. So I have it set at 12psi but on the stock ECU its hittin the fuel cut because of the cold weather, seems like its better when its warmer out. Anyone have any suggestions, would playing with my fuel regulator help out at all or do I need to have my ecu re-mapped or go for tuning devices? ~Thanks

lol what are you down for???

Hey guys, I have decided to see what I can get for the old Z. I cant afford it anymore because of the work it still needs. It is my daily driver and if I did what I want to do with it Id be dead broke. Im havin a lil bit of trouble with funds and college and all so she has to go. Things I will be doing this week to the car consist of, repacking wheel bearings, new brake hoses on all four corners, new rear drums with new shoes and hopefully gauges. I already have the water temp and oil pressure I just havent installed them yet. Info is here http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/249207807.html Starting at $9,000obo, I have over $10,000 just in the swap and around $2000 before the swap. Tires have around 3,000 miles on them. Body has 160,XXX and motor around 45,XXX. Just had new water pump installed and its running great now. If you would like more info please PM me or email me at irishboyo88@yahoo.com. Thanks for looking.

and lunch, then dinner, and a lil dessert of corvettes.

Yea it was a phase...lol we all have em but im gonna keep the car and just start building the **** out of it. Not meaning right now but over the years save for things here and there. Right now im gettin the gauges figured out and electric fan and such. After that then the boost controller . I want to get megasquirt for my car but I havent seen anyone yet that have used it on a rb25. So its hard but hopefully i can figure it out..

Yea its leaking from the bottom....It sucks because its only a few months old and now that i just moved to arizona with it i dont have any of my tools...figures... atleast i got the car done haha but ill have to get rid of it still so if anyones interested go ahead and PM me. Ill have it fixed and running this week so you wont be buying a pig...haha

Hmm well I have used both a gasket and rtv and both blow so i dont know what to do....i dont have enough tools with me so i guess to the shop it goes, then im gettin rid of it, i cant afford the car anymore.

well what do you guys use for the gasket?? Im almost positive there are no cracks, i have had the thing off and on 4 times in 3 days so i woulda noticed

any ideas??

I dont know about the times seems like he ran shorter but the difference is in the tires. See the difference in size, he may be able to burn out with huge slicks like that but definitly cant turn em fast enough down the track, i bet if you saw that r31 with the same tire size as the r33 you would see a huge difference. Also the gearing is a huge difference between the cars. thats my input

No im sure, I looked at it when I took it off the motor, also its only 2 months old. Whenever I pressurize the system the water pump seal goes within 20 seconds, so that leads me to the cap, the thermostat is probably a month and a half old so I doubt thatd be it. What cap does everyone use??? Need some help fast I hate walking everywhere haha.

The gasket that seals the water pump to the block.

Anyone know what pound cap the rb uses?? I had a 12lb. cap on for two months and the water pump seal blew last week and i have replaced it two times but it keeps blowing. ANY HELP???

Thanks for the info, Im going to test drive some svt cobra's this weekend so we'll see...

Well I have been contemplating selling the Z. It still needs more work that I dont have the funds to finish..So Im asking for everyones input. Id like to get everything functional...gauges tuning everything like that but funds arent working out. Had a lot of plans but I still dont know yet so thats what you guys are for! Im asking what you think I should do and how much you think its worth. ok for the info, 1978 Datsun 280z rb25det series 1, full custom 3 inch exhaust, front mount intercooler, custom driveshaft, all new suspension motorsport springs and macphearson struts, racing seats, interior is near perfect, everything original inside except for seats and autometer tach. walboro 255 fuel pump. I have over $8,000 invested and I have had people say they'd pay 12K for it. 160K on body, around 50K on motor. 99.9% rust free, only rust is surface about 2 inches on both sides under doors. So what do you think? and Yes i do drive it everyday. Here are my pics http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=16411