ZDrifter

Hey Im in the fun mood so I thought we should have a fun thread! List what your future plans are and your dreams so we can see what you want to do and in a couple months or years search for this thread and see if you made your goal!!! I know i thought a rb25 swap was a dream and way far off but hey i got it and i love it. So lets see what you want and see if you can get it! My Future Plans: Oil Pump Greddy Intake Q45 Throttle Body Aluminum Radiator Injectors Garrett GT35R Spearco Intercooler + all new intercooler piping Top Mount turbo manifold Studs and Head Gasket LSD 3.90 CV Halfshaft conversion 5-lug and Rear Disk conversion Possibly megasquirt??? Wheels and Tires Cage/strut bars 4 point harnesses rest of gauges Body Work and Paint Clutch Coil Packs Boost Controller Far Far plans: Completely pull motor rebuild with new internals. Would like to hit 800 hp and keep it at that haha.

Ok a lot of people will say they dont want to talk about it because they have before. I understand that but I also understand what its like to be at the point to decide about what swap. Ok to start of with I did a RB25 swap. Be ready to spend $10,000 to be driving her around safely. You need to be good at fabricating because of making your own mounts and other modifications that you need to do (youll find out if you do the swap). CHANGE EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU PUT IT IN THE CAR! i regret not doing this because my water pump shattered and threw the fan into my radiator. So there was a good $100 in damage. I would not suggest buying from Venus Auto, I got a motor with a cut wiring harness. The easiest swap would be a l28et, and Ive heard they are fun to build and you can get a good amount of power out of them too. I have seen sr20 cars in the low 9 second 1/4 times but ofcourse thats a lot of money in it haha. I chose the RB25 because its such a good start for a beast of a motor. J. Taylor has taken his to 600hp before the stock internals started failing. ( Thanks J. for finding out when the internals go for the rest of us RB guys!!) If you have no problem making money and your into RB's, get a rb26dett half cut, youll get parts you dont need but in the long run YOU CAN SELL THEM!!! this is another mistake i made with buying a motor set, i was lucky that it ran good but if you get a half cut you can run it in the car before you pull it. Basically the market for RB motors is very big in japan you just have to be willing to pay for shipping if you end up building your motor, but basic mods like turbo intake stuff like that can be found in the U.S. Parts like alternator and water pumps stuff like that are hard to come by you just have to know the right places. I picked the RB because I love how you can build the hell out of them and they have been known to be reliable. (knock on wood) Plus i liked the idea of a strait six turbo. Im mostly a traditionalist and I dont want to take z car name away from the car by going with something other then nissan. Im not hating on the v8 guys I think its cool but its just my opinion. So I hope this info helps you out and be ready for lots and lots of work in the shop, i pretty much lived in mine haha and ofcourse the yelling of your girlfriend wondering when your gonna hang out with her lol, but other then that i love my Z and i cant wait to get to the mods.

Hey Fentin_Fury are you using the stock temp gauge?? I have been tryin to figure out if you can use the stock gauge and I hooked mine up like that but it doesnt read right.. I have a RB25 so I dont know if they are the same but would just a regular autometer temp gauge hooked up through the stock Z wires going to the temp sensor work?? Thanks

It seems easier to have a ECU you can easily tune and switch programs whenever you want

Its alright, anyone else with any info??

Im new to megasquirt, I want to controll everything possible, fuel, air, ignition. I talked to Clinton about it and he didnt know if there was a setup for the rb25 yet so thats why Im asking. I was looking at the Apexi unit but this is way more cost effective and it sounds easier to tune and easier to learn. I like the setup on the laptop too. So any more info would be awesome!!!

I ran a search but didnt come up with anything...Could you get a link please?

It could be, im just saying thats what happened in my situation, i noticed more travel in the front but none in back. Maybe its too close to tell by the human eye. and no im not on crack haha

I was wondering if anyone is running there rb25 with a megasquirt and how they like it? I am now just starting to learn about the megasquirt option and wanted to know if anyone has any info on it for the rb25. I did a search but didnt find anything. Thanks ~Spence

After doing the rb swap in my car the front end sat higher then with L28. I know that because when I put my springs on it was lower in the front then back and when i did the swap it evened it out more. Id say the RB is lighter but not by much.

I have broken 3 u joints with the stock L28 motor in the car. I know two of them were bad because they broke while I was backing into my garage. But the other one i completely snapped diagonally agross the center cross. If you set a brand new u joint on the ground and picture it completely in half thats what mine did. I was in a parking lot showing off and there was water on the ground and I started burning out, held it, and let off the break to pull out into the street and the shock of pulling onto the street (stock springs and struts) completely snapped it, id say the tires were spinning a good 40mph. Anyway NOT A GOOD SOUND!!!! That half shaft spun in the wheel well and only gashed the inside of the wheel well then lodged itself in the control arm. I had to beet the hell out of it to get it loose but after that it was a 2 hour job of fixin it. Thats my story but since I did the RB swap i have been waiting for any hard driving until I get stronger components. About the driveline loop. Only purpose is to prevent it from pole vaulting like pop n wood said. If you had a complete circle around the driveline it would be hard not to interfere with the normal movement of the driveline and also if the driveline breaks the stress that the driveline would put on it might break the tight loop itself in my opinion. Better to have minor gashes in your floor then a driveline right next to you in the car. I had two driveline bolts fall out or break after going through the grapevine in cali and its very bad vibration, good thing i stopped cuz the third was on its way. But those are my destructive stories haha, im definitly looking into stronger components for drifting.

Its up!! That video is sick!!! I cant believe you pulled on him that hard. I wish I could have seen the look on everyones face tho! Nice run man, I love to see that kind of stuff. Good luck with the rebuild!

Yep I am, why??

I can see it now...first a twin turbo viper...then the world.. muhaha, maybe if you take the korean president for a ride in your car it will scare the ♥♥♥♥ out of him then he'll run and hide, and the world will love the Z car even more! good job J, there is a video of a 350z on streetfire.net that walks all over a brand new viper 500hp, he pulls on him really hard and I love the video, cant wait to see yours! Let us know when its up.

congrats on the pull.. cant wait to see some videos!!

Avondale, Drove around today and saw a very clean 350z, looked like veilside kit and maybe axis wheels. You??

Alright! So Im finally in Arizona for school but what a drive down. First of all two days before I started having electrical problems...Shorts in the wire harness, ignitor fried....and sad to say it, the ECU fried itself... All of this two days before I leave. So I take it in get the wiring fixed and they cant find a ECU. Anyways after thinking that it was a lost cause of being fixed I found one in portland...very lucky. So I had it put in and I left for Arizona like 10 hours later then I expected to leave. It was driving better then it ever has, no sputtering, hesitation and its 110% faster then it was.(knock on wood that nothing happens from now on) But after 800 miles and going through the grapevine in california, I began feeling a lot of vibration. 20 miles south of my uncles house I pull over and check the halfshafts...fine.. Then I check the driveline...hanging by two bolts...yea not good. So we called for the tow to my uncles and I fixed it that night in the rain. I then left at 6 the next morning and finally arrived in Arizona. Got moved in and now Im getting prepared for school. I did see one other 280z on the freeway pass me, very good looking, silver, stock bumpers, anyone from this forum maybe? Anyways thought you guys would like the story and be thankful it wasnt you haha. But anyone else in Arizona Im letting you know Im here!!! And anyone know of Datsun/Nissan shops that are good for aftermarket parts or good for just general work let me know!! thanks

I got my rb25det motor set from venus auto in california for just under $2700 shipped. Found out wiring harness has been cut but other then that it was a clean motor. They have a one month warranty so if your planning on taking longer to get it running then dont buy from them. Its one month or nothing. good luck

Alright things I have found out...If I connect my tach to the main power for the coils (white) it bounces from 0rpm to 500rpm at idle and i revv it and it only rises to about 1000rpm. Also it runs very shitty when its cold and it will run like that even if its warmed up but if I stop turn off the car and start it back up it runs better and faster but still popps. Any ideas, maybe bad cold start sensor???

So I totally disconnected the tach today and still no change... It seems like the timing is off again so maybe the belt jumped a tooth?? I just ill have to check that out next.

Thanks a lot for the info guys. I am running a SARD fuel regulator because I am also running a walbro 255 and I read in other posts that it helps with the car running rich. I will try totally disconnecting the tach to see if it will make a difference because she is running horibbly. About the tach...Are you guys just getting the tach signal strait from the ECU and not running the tach adapter at all?

Alright so heres the story. Ive been having fuel issues since I started driving the car. So I did a search, found out that to change the problem of the car running rich you need a aftermarket adjustable fuel regulator. So thats no big deal I get one from Garage 112 here in Portland and they hooked me up by tuning it and getting the fuel pressure just right. I get the car back and it runs great. That lasted for about 2 days until I started putting in my autometer tach. Seems like after I tried installing it that its running worse and worse. I read that the yellow/lavender is the tach signal then found out that you dont use the wire from the ECU since Im using a tach adapter. Anyways this is what the car is doing. When hitting boost it will build rpms slowly and hesitate horribly. Sounds like the car is running rich again but fuel pressure is fine and its not backfiring just sputtering very badly. If I go past 1/4 throttle it will start sputtering. So I figured maybe there is not enough air. So i removed my skid plate since the air filter is near there and it ran considerably better but same simptoms just higher in the RPMS, yea well that lasted for like 3 or 4 hours until it started running worse again. So today I tried running it without the air filter for a short period and still no change. I also checked and replaced all the spark plugs and properly gapped them. I dont know what to try next so any help would be greatly appreciated, Im starting to get down to the wire with going down to college so Im afraid that if I dont get this problem fixed I might have to let her go. Thanks

So i just want to know if I understand this correctly. I just need to open up the white wire and connect the signal wire into that but keep the original connection so it sends the signal back to the computer? So its pretty much a three way connection right?