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tweakinZs

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About tweakinZs

  • Birthday 06/10/1988

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  1. Hey every1. Ive had my car now for about a year now. Though I havnt posted in a long time. I have a 76 N/A 2+2. I have almost taken it down to bare essentials as far as emission control and A/C go. Blocked off heater and yada yada. I have just bought a great urethane bushing kit for it, havnt gotten it in yet due to cappy weather! And I wanna get a new rack and pinion, tie rod ends and ball joints for it. Workin at a part store now so go-figure.. Anywho to my point, I already have every gasket beside head gasket for this car including sleeve for the main. None installed yet. My question, I have this ticking from the top-end, cant tell if its injectors or valve train. It its constant and increases and decreases with engine RPM and gets louder when the car warms up. Other symptoms are it starting to bogg-out, missing, oil pressure loss, and really rough running. Does anyone have any suggestions on what may be causing this, and will it be easier/cheaper just to buy a new motor, or pull this one and rebuild it, or buy a new on really cheap rebuild it with some flat tops, cam, and a couple bolt-ons and see how many sets of tires this engine will burn through before it dies??
  2. That is a beautiful Z. I can only hope for mine to look that good...
  3. $120,000 is alot for a motor huh. Especially when you think about how much power and reliability you can get out of a v-8 or sumthing with $120,000 to put into it, or how nice of a Z you can build with that much, or while your at it you can buy a house too.....
  4. 611hp??? Doesnt that sound a bit too little for a quad turbo v-12?? Maybe its just me but isnt it possible to get the same out of a single or twin- turbo 8 cyl and still save twice the weight? I also noticed he mentioned its not legal for use in the US, if you buy the car for the US all they do to make it street-legal is add a cat. for each turbo. Also the weight of the motor and trans doesnt seem as much when its in the car that barely weighs a ton, the Bugatti is built with a carbon fiber frame and chassis. (was my child-hood dream car).... an interesting swap would be using the 850+hp 8cyl out of the koenigsegg CCR....
  5. That VW is nuts...hands down. The scooter hes got is even more nuts. Its a shame hes an a-hole but, more than some people with money to burn like that is. I would figure it would turn fairly normal, unless of course hes actually got the turbine spinnig up to speed, I dont think those piddly little stock wheels would turn it too well. Maybe he should get his head out of his a$$ and upgrade....
  6. I have to say thanks to JACKHAMMER and POPNWOOD. The only people who actually gave me info I can work with. My brother agreed with me to use his shop to do the swap. We are gonna do a bare bones 350, Im going to use a th350 trans, Im hoping to get a 5spd though. Im using everything I can fromthe Z. I will eventually get around to replacing everything new but for now Im just gonna do a streetable stock 350. Thanks for the help from everyone, I will post pics if I get a camera, and I am very determined to do the swap without even reaching the $1000 marl. Wish me luck.... -Mario
  7. I have used the search portal and cant find what Im looking for, Like I said there is alot of info on everything being brand new, from bumper to bumper. I have a very decent Z right now that really doesnt need anything, its all in good-shape. So my question simply is, Do I have to spend $3000-$4000 eventhough all I want to do is the swap. 60s block, carburated, 5spd, shorty headers, ect.... I wouldnt ask these questions, but Ive been a member here for a little over a month, been trying to study up on both motor ideas I have and just cant find anything about anyone wanting to do simple changes like I am. Thanks again -Mario
  8. Ok I read alot of these and it sounds like noone is quite doin what I am lookin at doing. Question: Saying that I had a fab shop to take care of any weldind or fabricating, and I already have a suitable mild carburated small block. What else has to be done to make it driveable. Can I use the Z rear end in it, I know drive shaft will have to be replaced, but assuming Im only putting out about 300-340HP would it be safe to use the stock Z differential?? Would the stock radiator move enough water, how will going from F.I. 6 to a carb. V-8 affect the computer, Ect... I dont want to use a whole lot of electranics on it. (elect. water pump, fuel pump, fans ect...) I wanna try to keep it as basic as possible. Switch panel and so forth. (also have someone to take care of switches and relays.) Im just wondering, All these corroded connectors and hoses are driveing me insane!!! I just want it gone. thanks, Mario
  9. You got a hella of a deal there. Just as I was thinking I got a kick A$$ deal on my 280 2+2. Running, complete, almost 0 rust, an extra engine, 5spd. But I need suspension, this things is drives like its on a trampoline. Any one with good OEM there gettin rid of?? -Mario 76 280Z 2+2, L28, 5spd
  10. Yea, I dont like the scoop much, the car is awsome though, I would have to update it with a couple new parts then those ten year out-of-date Ford parts under the hood. Needs a Chevy in it and it would be near perfect....
  11. Yea I feel it is too but I may still change my mind once I get out to the shop and have my brother and all his employees give me a hand with things. My personal opinion is you can't learn until you try right? Honestly the only thing holding me back is extra cash, but hey, come next month Im going to be working, well, doing murals on cars. Wish you all could see the art I can do. F-ing wickid shnit!!! P.S anyone in Nor Cal and need some major customization done, hit up A to Z customs in downtown Sacramento. Thay can do everything you can think of and have it done right. Pleas dont come for maintnance work, it will be rejected. -Mario
  12. Great post you guys, If I may say, Id like to mention that everything you guys have said is 100% true, I am on car number 6 in two years of having a license and have realized through my own experience to buy right the first time, mark and label everything, but I have never thought of taking pics of progress, dissasembly, ect... I have looked at others projects hough to follow up on if Im doing thing right or not. If I may add, a great way to prevent problems, confusion, or wrong parts, try and get a Chilton or Haynes manual for your car, or if possible a factory manual for it. Everything that has been discused falls into a catagory I like to call CSA. (common sense assembly) or put it back together the way it came apart. -Mario 76 280Z 2+2, bone-stock L28 w/ 5spd
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