Shift

On the zx the steering could seem locked if it has power steering. It sounds like the tumbler is worn. If thats just the case, you can take the whole ignition lock component and a key to a lock smith and have them rebuild it. If I recall it would be anywhere from $20-$60 and you get be able to use the original key.

link no worky. gggrrrr

OOOhhh. Nice. Are you going to keep the PS rack and mod it to the 302 PS pump? Or are you just going to go with a manual rack, if so what rack?

jmortensen is probably right though. He seems to be right with these kinds of things. Its easier to check things than to replace things. If thrust angle is off then you just have to re-align, if not then its probably the bearings.

'Popping moise" could be the diff mounts being worn. the torque bias could because of the halfshaft/diff bearings being more worn on one side, that and having an open diff could cause those symptoms.

diagnosing engine problems.An engine needs 3 things to start; air, fuel, spark. On these engine spark is usually controlled mechanically, separate from the fuel control system. For spark, test the plugs, test to see if the dizzy is 180*'d, test coil. Fuel; test for fuel peasure, check to see if injectors are firing. Air; see if the AFM connector is loose, or corroded; do the same of the ecu end. Even if any of the other sensors that were not mentioned aren't working, the ECU should be in limp mode which should ususally be able to get the engine started.

Could also be that the bloack heater (if you have one installed) is going bad. Happend to me and I just removed it and put a longer piece on hose. Damn thing would trip the circuit breaker everytime I plugged it in, and caused coolant leaks because of restriction.

see if theres road tar suck in the veins or if they have been damaged by rocks . both will cause the the radiator to be less efficient.

check spark timing with a timing light. I second a compession check. take a 9v battery, put some wires on the terminals and check the injectors to hear a click when you run a current through it. Also remove the turbo and check it, since it was supposedly sitting in water at one point.

http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/

been talked about plenty of times. Search.

plenty have already. search.

To add what I said before is, don't do anything to it as of right now. because once you start, you are going to have some down time in driving it and once you start tinkering with it, you're going to want to do all this crap that will prolong your down time. And once you do start tinkering, if you see something else that you think needs to be changed, then just do that later (inless its something imediate), just finish what you initially was working on the car for and plan for that upgrade later. But once you start, start in the order with the bushing, brakes, then suspension, drive train/engine (power).

pics?

they look nice. I wish that they were reccessed a little so you can put the clear covers from the standard light housing, to keep a hint of the original look,

haha. took a hacksaw to mine already. Got mine free since the front was totaled. "we can rebuild her, we have the technology" haha.

I would like an extra 1k rpm . Were there sr20de (no turbo) engines in a FR layout? I've heard of a project to convert a SR20DE fro a infinity G20 (FWD) to RWD, but never really saw any details. You think getting a SR20DET and swapping the internals with those from a G20 to convert to NA would work?

could be that the battery connections just need to be cleaned. Usually it lets enough power through to let the accessories work, but when cranking the amperage demands are too great and just won't crank over. Oh forgot to ask, does it crank over? Well this is what would be the first thing to do anyways. Disconnect the battery. Remove it (just for safety reasons). the wires that go from the battery terminal to the starter, clean them. Disconnect those wires from the starter and clean them. then put everything the way its was and see if it starts up.

If its just "working," I would replace all the suspension bushings and upgrade the brakes. While you're at it, you should replace the spindle bearing, haft shaft bearings and diff bearings (remember to pack ethe bearings with grease). then other suspension stuff. Then focus on the engine (swap or rebuild). BTW is it a automatic or manual? The 240z new, was rated to have higher HP than the 280z (because of emmissions). and because your car is pre 1975, it should be smog exempt, so you can pretty much do what ever you want to the car as far as emmissions is concerned.

Check it the TPS is working properly. ALso see if the temp sensor is plugged ing and working. Though not a nissan, same thing happend to my cutlass, idiots at jiffy lube didn't plug it back in and had all kinds of problems just from that. Don't know about you tranny problem.

thats is awsome work with the console. I also like the rear bumper.

To answer this old question. Yes and no. its will work, but to get a speedometer to work, you are going to have to swap the diff also. On the S15 the speedo sender unit is on the diff.

I vote going KA-T. Recommend lowering compression ratios a little with new internals and also recommend using anything other than the stock engine computer.

When I did the replacement I replaced everything inside the door, including guides. If you are looking for a parts number, I am sure there are different numbers for pretty much the same thing.

You're going to have to be more specific. There are as many window mechanicals as there are door latch designs for the first generation Z cars. The 280z alone have 2 different ones (windows machinicals and latch designs). though they are similar they aren't quite the same. Had that problem when I swapped mine. Didn't quite fit, Imine it fit but the window never quite lined up right, untill I swapped it out for the right one.