Shift

So whats going to to power this? The upper piece looks like its to narrow even for a lL6 engine.

techno toy racing has camber kit and other suspension piece for the z cars also. Edit: Sorry its techno toy TUNING.

Link? or Pics?

Oh forgot to add. You can usually get metal for free. go to custruction sites,or fab shops and see if they have any metal they want to get rid of from a finished job. Usually free or really really cheap. got 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" square pipe in about 6 foot lengths for like $20 from one construction site for 4 of them. EDIT:damn keep on think of more suggestions. as far as front suspension goes, how about 240sx front suspension? parts are fairly cheap and should be easy to adapt onto something like what you're building. Plus camber could be adjusted by adjustable upper control arm instead of adjusting struts and camber plates. just a suggestion, might be a better option out there. BTW I didn't read the first post, I just read the last couple of entries so i apologies if somethings been said before.

Have to agree with jmortensen on that one. Less moving parts on something that usually dies on torque. The suspension gain for going with the half shaft/diff design would be minimal. BTW looks great boodlefoof. Though I wouldn't have cut the entire firewall off, but its your car so not going to tell you to do it one way or the other. Well here are some pics that 74_5.0L_Z sent me when I PM'd him about how he did his.

wouldn't think the visibility would be that bad. the glass is closer to the driver so it wouldn't be as bad as a lambo diablo.

doesn't surprise me on the amount. Can get the same amount of wire for $50, but you also have to think about that they used different colored wires ( can't just right the whole thing up with just black wires, but you can try:mrgreen: ), and then you have to throw in the connecters and such. Sounds about right for the price, but I'm pretty sure you can find cheaper (may not be the same quality though).

Good to hear. Mine (280z)came with 2 speaks mounted behind the interior panels behind the rear strut towers. Tore all of it out though. Why even bother with a old radio (except if it sthe original)? You can buy a cheap tape deck unit for $20 at schuts last I saw. But I still have a 8-track player laying around somewhere:mrgreen: , should probably ebay it.

^ haha. Well I remember there being a red one a while back. Oh wait found it. I was wrong, its silver. The red one I was mistaking it for was this one.

IMO the center piece (upper part of the bumper) needs to be separated fromt he lower section on the sides some how. the center-center piece is fine, its just the sides are blended in when it shouldn't be.

Shouldn't be too hard to hook up the speaker wires. Usually on aftermarket head units. the wiring is all the same. black=ground Power connection are red an yellow wires, one is for igition and other is for power consant (memory). don't remember which. won't hurt anything to mix them. Each speaker have paired wirers. usually they of the same color but one has a stripe going down it (black or white). Some have a blue wire for power antenna and or accessories, Some also have a orange wire just for acc. Thinking about it you might have mixed up the ign and batt wire connections. Also make sure the the "harness" is plugged firm into the head unit. Checking the fuse in the unit wouldn't hurt either.

Found this browsing the web and posted it in another thread. Think its more appropriate here.

don't know if its real or photoshopped but its damn cool.

I ment in real life. Probably get to the point where just stand there and say "what do I need to do to make that" and then just give up . I know it can be done, because someone made a midget corvette. I have to find the pic.

olderthanme Every time I look at your sig it makes me want to try to replicate it ( I did say try, and don't thing I would get very far) And also check the driver and passenger lower window seals, If they have worn out expect to have some rust on the inside of the doors.

uhh... are you talking about bikes? wouldn't know then

Whats the 3rd pic of? Looking at the crack, it might be hiding some bondo work. Not a real biggy and makes things easy, just couple of taps from a screw drive and it will come right off. Another area to look is the trunck lid deck. Even though superficial, the replace piece cost some overpirced amount. Tap around the floor boards with a screw driver from the bottom, rust might be hidden under some undercoating.

On mine there were 2 clips holding it on, on each side. One on the front and one on the back. They broke off when I took the trim off because they were rusted out.

the way you discribe the oil pan. Its sounds alot like how the KA oil pan is like. How about cutting the front sump of the pan and welding a piece of sheet over it? If it has a rear pickup then whats the point in having the front one anyways, beside holding more oil volume.

well its better than the stock valance.

I believe the easy way would be to sand the paint even (not off) and just paint over it.

Yeah sounds like the diff is loose somehow. think about it, when launching, the diff case is more likely to move up in the front. down shifting has the opposite effect. Quick shifts, theres a moment that the diff is decelerating (pressing the clutch), which would also make the diff go down. Not trying to be a know-it-all, just bored and have nothing better to do. Most likely someone else is going to come along and prove me wrong anyways:mrgreen: .

Just guessing here, but why not trying to use the front gen suspension, assuming that strut towers and the tie rods have the same geometry? Also why not recess the firewall? I don't know if they made a rear sump oil pan for the SR but see if you can gat a KA pan to fit, from a pathfinder. If anything you can always try to mod the oil pickup and mount the pan backwards. Just throwing out ideas here.

I did this the other day myself actually. I used a flathead screwdriver and a rubber mallet. Slid the driver in along the rim into the channel an tapped it with the mallet and carefully pulled the trim as I went along.

not familiar with the nissan v6, but check if the egr valve is stuck. Th dizzy mount bolt should let you adjust the amount of timing. With the housing bolts loose and the engine running, rotate the housing until its run well. On the L6 there is a screw on the TB that you can adjust to adjust for idle speed, there might be the same thing for the v6. Don't know about the FPR, maybe its suppose to double as a fuel dampener.