Pennyman

That's the same guy who does the new season of "Trucks" on SpikeTV haha.

Those fit great! Those are the +12 offset RB's correct? I read that they come in +04, +12, +25, +30, +35 in 15x8 from http://www.18racing.com. I also contacted rota's distributor in hayward, and they said I could get the wheels in any color, I just have to wait 6-8 weeks to get them. I asked because I'm really interested in the gunmetal, but without the polished lip.

Simply cut down the spacer the same amount as the strut tube and you're set for the rear. For the fronts, just do what all the 240z guys do with the MR2 units.

I did the sectioned strut deal on my 76 280z, and you really don't have to worry about that much. If you are planning on running with camber plates, I would NOT recommend sectioning the struts because the car will be too low (and I cut out an inch and a half all around!). I'm running sectioned struts with the stock top hats and the car is almost too low even on the highest point of the threaded sleeves (Ground Control sent me the 4" sleeves). Adding camber plated will lower the car another inch on top of that! If you are determined to chop the strut tubes, then yes, the smaller diameter struts work fine, the gland nut holds everything in place. Use the MR2 struts in the front, but if you want illuminas, simply get the 280z rear struts for the rear, heres why: There's a metal spacer pressed onto the bottom of the rear struts that you can cut down the same amount as the strut tube to keep everything the same length. It's really pretty simple once you get down to doing it. PM me if you want, I just finished the project a couple months ago. Handles great.

I've seen sets of Silk Road coilovers for the S30 ready for install, but good luck getting your hand on a set...

I just installed my coilovers and realized my car understeered a bunch too. I figure it's not only the fact that I'm on street tires, but also because the front is stiffer than the rear. I'm going to lower the settings on my front illuminas, and that should help. Braking enough before the turn could help as well.

Hey, after I installed my coiloivers (76 280z), I realized the monkies at the shop my car had been at years before had put the wrong nut on the diff insulator stud.The nut and stud look stripped, and the nut doesn't tighten anymore, causing the familiar "clunk" when throttle changes are applied to the drivetrain. Is it possible to simply replace the stud and the nut in the insulator, and if not, can I use the insulator from a 280zx (more of them at the junkyard than 280z's) on my car. Lots of talk about solid mounts, but I've seen the horrors that can bring, so I'll wait on that.... Thanks

I made a front lip made of sheetmetal, sort of like a "spook" for a 280z stock front valence. Looks almost factory, bolts to the underside of the radiator support using existing holes.

You mean Aluminum OXIDATION? Do you know if the wheels are clearcoated after those foux-rivets are put on? If not, I would try and polish that area with a q-tip and some rubbing compound. But good idea to call the company. I was thinking of getting a set of these, but now I'm not so sure... What's interesting about Aluminum is that when it oxidizes, it creates a layer of film that actually prevents the rest of the metal from deteriorating. Or maybe that was Magnesium I was thinking of...

You could try and go back to the 280z MC, that might help. I remember seeing a lot of information on this topic if you search for master cylinder pedal modulation. Haven't done the swap, so not sure exactly, but I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for.

I have one word for you: Bosozoku.

Looks like an great little project! I saw something like this done on a couple Z31's as well. 446lb springs is overdoing it though IMO, especially for such a small car like a 510. But if you enjoy it, awesome.

Hope it's not a typo. Looks like they got it mixed up in the description...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but looks like 8" wide in back and 7" in the front? Otherwise your 205's would be s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d. Damn, I gotta decide on wheels soon...15x7 rewinds or 15x8 sportmax...Arg Looks awesome dude. What a progression this car has seen...

I want to do this as well. Would it be possible to make front bumper brackets from some strap metal? Also, do we know whether the rear brackets from a 240z will work on a 280z? Gotta find some bumpers. I hope it doesn't cost too much to get stuff rechromed...

Well, I really don't want the gland nut coming loose. Steve the pipefitter told me to just give him the length measurements of the tubes, and how long I need them to be (measured from the lip at the bottom up to the top of the tube) and he'll get them welded together. He also told me it would have been easier if he had cut them and welded them himself, instead of him trying to fix my job. Live and learn I guess. I'll post the measurements too, once I take them, in case they will help someone else. He said he'd probably be butt-welding them using a tig welder, but I've got a 1/6" gap on a couple, so hopefully he'll be able to take care of that.

Wow, those look like some beefy units right there! From the looks of them, you sure cut a lot out of those tubes! I went out and measued how much of a problem I have, and it turns out that only one has a large gap: the drivers-side front. The pass. front is cut slightly crooked, but is still a good length, and one of the rears is perfect, and the other rear needs to be ground down a tad. My girlfriend's brother is a pipefitter, and said that my best bet would be to weld in a small section of the tubing I removed, and then weld the rest on. So I trust his opinion. I'm over the sleeving idea, I don't think I have enough room in there for anything worthwhile anyway. I'll keep you all updated on this, though. I know it'll work out somehow...

I called Midas, I thought about expanding a piece of 1-3/4" tubing out to the required size, making a snug fit and making the metal thinner as well, more of a chance for the strut to fit, but I really like your idea of just welding it, spanning the gap and cleaning it up afterwards. My only worry is that cleaning it up afterwards, there could be a chance of messing up the glandnut threads on the tube with any sort of grinder. But overall, I think it'll work. I just need to find someone capable. Unfortunatly, lots of guys around here think they know a better way to fix it, and won't weld it unless they can fix it their way, which sucks. I've got a friend with a mig welder who might be able to, no gas sheilding, but he'll probably do it. I had a thought about practicing on the sectioned pieces. Taking the tube sections that were cut out of the housings and welding them together with the gap, and seeing how it works, kind of like a practice run. This should let me know if any sort of gap spanning is going to be worthwhile.

I think I have an idea. I talked to a guy who has sectioned other struts before, who reccomended finding a piece of tubing just small enough to fit inside the tube to be used as a sleeve, as I stated in my first post. Weld the sleeve in, and then slide the top part of the strut tube over the sleeve, leaving a 3/32" gap between the two strut tube pieces (about the thickness of the tubes themselves). Then welding the strut tube pices to the sleeve and to eachother by filling the gap. This would ensure everything is straight and add extra rigidity, and you wouldn't have to worry about weld protruding on the inside. As for the sleeve, I figure I can go to a muffler shop, get a piece of 1.5 inch tubing and have it swedged out to 1 7/8" OD, and cut off 2 or 3 inch sections for the required sleeves. What do you think?

I'm in the process of sectioning my struts and I seem to have cut a tad too much out. The gland nut fits and screws down about halfway but nowhere near the "1 thread showing" amount. If I weld the tubes with a little bit of a gap showing between them, I can get the gland nut tightened more. The gap to be filled with weld would probably be no more than an 1/8" probably 3/32" more like. I could fix this by getting a metal sleeve and putting it inside the tubes and using that to span the gap, and it would work because of the extra space between the strut tube and the insert, but I'm not sure where to find 1-7/8" OD tubing... Has anyone done the inner sleeve method? It seems like a good way to ensure everything is strong and aligned well, but it's possible it may not be necessary too if I can span the gap by simply welding it carefully. I'm new to all this, help me out...

Quite a dent on the driver's rear. Hope that didn't happen at Irwindale!! And for those of you without a lot of experience, just get out to an autocross, usually the people running it don't mind if you do a little sliding.

I'm one more ME major. I bet if I spent every dime I made I could have a car that looks like that....or not.

I think what usually happens is thr U-joint will break. I had this happen once, but I think it was because I had just got the U-joint replaced and it was defective. Luckily the body of the joint cracked, but didn't give way. If it had given way, the halfshaft would start wreaking havoc on the wheel well. I've never heard of this happening, but in theory it is possible. You bring up a good point about the halfshaft bolts, but as long as those are tight, I don't think shearing all 4 of them off would be a problem, hehe.

Honestly I'm not a fan of the rake, and it needs to be lowered spome more, but yes, it's quite good looking. This one's nice. Wats are a nice touch too.