260DET

Hop over to the 350Z.com forum but unless you are electronics capable I'm thinking avoid the manual swap.

Thanks Tim, will check that option out. My past experience. To get good pedal feel when using a vacuum booster it has to be set up right, bit of a black art. Anyway one booster was not set up right, the brakes were light switch on/off but boy did it stop, better than anything before or after. Hence my preference for power brakes, it's just part of getting the car to perform as close to the edge as possible without using driver aids.

It's for the race 350Z I bought, it has two Tilton MC's and no booster. I've always used a booster because it gives a light sensitive pedal feel which for me avoids brake lock up, anyway It's going to get it's first track test soon so we'll see.

With multiple separate throttle bodies there is no way to use the usual booster setup without a vacuum pump arrangement, as far as I know. Simple question, is there a suitable alternative brake boost system available?

No foreign drivers but we do have a couple of US racing tribute S30's entered. The US scene around that time was brilliant and worthy of world wide attention.

Getting the individual ride heights even is my priority, if the corners are too much different then there is a car weight distribution problem that should be fixed first. IMHO As far as suspension generally goes I've always found that getting the spring rates right and even more importantly having the best 3 way dampers possible to be most important. A circuit ace car is rarely never in a state of constant dynamic so particulars like individual wheel loadings are constantly changing anyway. Attending to factors that govern that is where my priority lies.

Yeah, I've never noticed a problem that could be related to corner weighting but that could be me, getting the ride heights equal on each corner F to F and R to R is as far as I go

Have never bothered with corner weighting, something about it did not make sense in a vague sort of way. But what you have posted does make definite sense, same with the rear too even when accelerating. Say if when accelerating the L tyre has less grip due to track conditions and that side just happens to have an effective higher spring rate due to corner weighting.

At last count we had 54 Z cars signed up for track action, at least 45 of those would be S30's which has to be some sort of world record. Furriners are invited, don't think we have any yet, you won't get run off the track or anything LOL.

Yeah, maybe search '280ZX suspension' because the person who sold those did stuff for the S130 like brakes too.

ABS delete on mine it's all gone, engine has a larger aluminium sump but no aftermarket engine oil cooler which is perhaps why it has a oil temp gauge, diff has received a lot of attention. It came with a manual switched pumped cooler and now has a clutch type LSD, NISMO cover and a thermo switch to control the pump. Plus have done lots of detail things like fitting magnetic drain plugs front to back.

Wide from where to where? You may be better of looking for a dimension plan drawing for the 350Z.

A car model that makes a good drift car makes a good circuit car.

Bought a Z33 race car, doing preventable maintenance checks and all looks good so far. Should have done this ages ago rather than spend forever on a project race car get something that is ready to go and work on a project on the side.

The problem for informative forums like his 'grate sight' is that people come for the information and then yak about it on social media without contributing here. In other words this site is used but not replenished.

Didn't think that the Z33 had rev match, so was it a bit slow? I prefer the look of the Z33 and that's crucial for a race car LOL.

No hurt in asking

They look great but I don't know why they are so expensive.

To ship to 4370, Australia, it's not hard to do, pay by Paypal. By 'gear set' I mean just the crown wheel and pinion which means that it would be easy to pack. PM best, cheers, Richard.

It's basically the same as what came OE behind SR20's so it should fit but chasing unusual auto applications gets very frustrating, the good shops have heaps of regular work and don't have to spend the time sorting out something different while those that may be good but you're not sure want to mortgage your vital body parts in payment.

Thanks Gollum, I had a feeling that you would come up with something interesting and practical.

So, a Honda 2000 engine and gearbox? I like the sound of that, BUT, will the gearbox handle turbo power? I know that you said that the transmission is fine but how fine? I'm thinking that 400 horses at the wheels would be tops. A budget engine rebuild would be lower compression pistons and stock everything else? Wonder how it would go with E85 fuel with the stock pistons?

Thanks fellas for the very useful contributions, cheers. I should have mentioned that using an auto trans is a option but weight is crucial with this project, at present I'm looking at what autos may bolt up to a SR20DET, the manual option for it would be the Silvia gearbox with a close ratio Kameari gear set which is the sensible option. But 'sensible' does not always win LOL

That's the automatic transmission used in the Z31 300ZX and other Nissans of that vintage, I can get one good to hold 450 hp with full engine braking and convertible to full manual shift, no electronics. But first I have to know if it will bolt straight up to a SR20, anyone know?

A bump for this monster project, have been thinking about putting a stock configuration VQ30DET into the circuit racer 280ZX but it looks like the engine will not go far enough back for the sump to clear the Xmember.