260DET

And the effective length of a bend is different to a straight anyway.

Say around 400whp capable with a rear drive gearbox that will handle such power, a Mustang Ecoboost would do but virtually unavailable in Straya so back to square one. Spending too much money on the other project so this would be a 'done properly but not lavishly' thing for circuit racing so no crate engine, used Japanese preferred but not essential. Thinking that someone here may just have experience with a not so popular engine that goes better than it looks.

Thanks fellas, will pass the contributed info on to him. Link to cryogenic treated rotor info for those interested http://www.frozenrotors.com/about/why-deep-cryogenics/

Have used the Carbotech XP10 compound on my race car and have recommended them. But yes, the racing class my friend runs in requires the use of standard OE brakes, he is improving the usual stuff like cooling and compounds but there are also more subtle possibilities like shims made of ? to reduce pad/bucket heat transfer, modifications to the OE parts, heat/freeze treated rotors, heat extracting wheels and so on. He has to use 14x6 period style wheels. It's all about attention to detail with his car class.

Back in the Z glory days, boy did Nissan miss an opportunity to be a real sports car maker to rival Porsche like they used to.

Welding the diff puts more stress on the rest of the drivetrain of course, I thought that drifters used a specific clutch type limited slip diff. Going cheap usually does not work the best.

Friend of mine has to use standard brakes on his historic race S30 and of course they are inadequate. Putting this up in case some old school racer has some tricks on how to make them work longer, we know the usual stuff but perhaps there is something that is ........ trick

That Ford Performance kit looks the go, in my book that sort of equipment is essential if available, problems in that engine control area can cost heaps to diagnose and fix let alone the frustration and trying to find someone who can do it. Time is better spent on building the race car.

An aftermarket ECU and a general purpose loom would be one way, they have drive by wire, VVT and so on pretty well sorted these days and are particularly suitable for turbo engines. The problem with this sort of new swap is that most want the knowledge of others who have done it before, hey, pioneering is fun providing the time line is flexible.

What is now becoming an established annual two day event which attracts lots of S30's, Bathurst tests car and driver like no other circuit eg front end lift at 200 KPH anyone? Anyway enjoy and if you Murricans have a spare November this year, plus the necessary, ship your S30 over and take part.

Maybe others can understand your sketch but I can't, usually arrows are used to indicate measurements, just trying to help.

It sounds like a great conversion, particularly in the US where you have lots of Mustangs with a fair percentage of them ending up in wrecking yards well before the term of their natural life. Aftermarket con rods should not be a problem? OE forged crank is a big plus. If I was starting now this would a serious drivetrain contender.

Here is another one Jon, 500+WHP now which is a good start, looks like bang for buck the LS has a challenger particularly for a circuit race car.

And so we have another 'I will do' fail.

What got me thinking is the bigger capacity of the Ecoboost 4 compared with the usual 4, viability would basically depend on it's rev limit, weight and head flow capacity plus general serviceability. There is a lot of looking backwards in the engine swap world plus there is the always present LS challenge which is now the bench mark for engine swap choice? The only LS downsides are lubrication and the ever present V8 exhaust challenge, with a 4 a proper extractor exhaust will easily fit in any reasonably sized car. Real extractor exhausts for the LS don't exist unless pipes are run from one bank to the other. One engine bay for the motor another for the headers LOL.

Never heard of anyone even thinking of putting a S30 strut type rear suspension in a S130 (280ZX) but you know there are plenty worse ideas. Fabrication would be required of course.

How about doing some Polish magic body work , make your own kit modelled on a race 280ZX.

Into a S30 or S130, auto or manual, I'm always thinking circuit racing so a four is good to get the weight back for 50/50 weight distribution or even some rear bias to help get the power down out of corners. Guess that the 4 would be lighter than the L6 too, lighter is good in these old flexy chassis and of course helps power to weight. Have not researched the power these 4's are making but I'm guessing 'sufficient'. Working on another race car at the moment but do have a nice 2+0 280ZX roller sitting there doing nothing;. Hmmmm.

Trying to work out what aero advantage we have here.

How cool, the US reaching out to Poland. As for the questions, either transplant a S chassis suspension into the 280ZX or else race spec what you have or look at using a Z31 rear end. As for the transplant the problem is with the rear S cradle, getting it high enough for a PROPER RACE CAR is a big job involving severe fabrication.

The only fluid that ended up in my catch can was a mix of something like water and a smelly light fluid mix, just a bit though over a period of time. So properly and adequately plumbed they do work. But you have got me thinking about vacuuming the sump now, using a electric pump. Wonder if that would reduce oil aeration in the crank case which I understand is a problem but first thought is it would have to pick up from the sump and not the heads. As really any ideal vent system should.

No NASCAR style up close and personal with the steering wheel then.

A catch can with vacuum is obviously best, a vented catch can with adequate hose sizes is next best though. A properly set up catch can is really just an old school extension of how engines used to be before the anti pollution requirements complicated things and introduced considerations irrelevant for a race engine where polly lutions gives no f***k. Mine has same diameter hoses from all three available vents going to a distributor block from which runs I'd guess a -12 size hose (it's all out in the shed and I'm too comfortable to move) to the large vented catch can. It all works perfectly in a world where not everything does.

You want to do the exact opposite to this taller driver who had to get an extension to keep the wheel close enough with the pedals as far away as practical. For mine it was all about getting the seat and driver back for better weight distribution.

I'm sure that the OP would appreciate comments like yours to be accompanied by a visual representation illustrating your point.