260DET

You did look at the date, that item would not be available now, the best reference for sports option parts still available for the S30 I've found is NISMO US.

Upload your videos to Youtube then link them here.

For my purposes only performance above 3500 is relevant. As it is now, more acceleration above 5000 is required so a cam change is next. At this time no other modifications are contemplated because all the indications are that the right cam/header combination should do the job.

Bloody music, it looked like a great video but....... This is my favourite, John Morton at 76.

Engine angle is relevant to tail shaft alignment, I suggest that is the most important consideration particularly to avoid vibration and excessive wear. Practical considerations are always relevant but doing the job right should be the first priority, after all after all the hard work and expense you want something that drives like a new one.

Be interesting to know why the HSV/Z28 headers went with a more complex 1-3 2-4 plumbing arrangement, it would be more expensive to make than the usual 1-2 3-4.

Decided to play it safe, particularly as space is largely an unknown at present , so I've decided on a set of used HSV headers. They can always be replaced without losing much if power is not satisfactory. No luck on LS1 Tech, pic of HSV's..

In AU there are two options if you want to race a Z, both are expensive. One, we have Historics (Veteran in the US?) where Porsches are allowed bigger brakes and wider wheels, two, time attack lol. Sedans rule here, particularly V8 Supercars. So you see where I'm coming from.

Steel ones are available unless you really need f'glass. Shipping cost is going to to be more relevant, get quotes from each seller to compare.

Ten mm clearance is a great clearance rule of thumb for everything, get that engine back and handle the consequences like you know you can.

LS3 into a Z31 auto race car project, I'm a simple man but realise that a can of worms is the popular design model for 'race' headers. But I like the look and practicality of the good block hugger designs, particularly where there is not much difference between the pipe lengths, the collectors look like they perform a useful function just like with the more complicated ones. So what's the go, have we some proper power comparisons here, will just a few horses be lost or will it be significant? Stock engine except for a yet to be decided upon medium cam.

You Murricans still have some great racing opportunities for your Zeds, compared with the rest of the world.

That sounds a bit sad, why so uncompetitive? Obviously the better later model cars have good dynamics but the S30 is light and the L engine can be powered up nicely although it gets a bit expensive to have Green Hornet type performance. Are the later chassis/suspension cars that much better or what is it?

Carbotech XP10's are great on the race Z, not hard on rotors either. I could buy pads like Project Mu's locally but instead go to the extra expense of importing the XP10's, good people to deal with too.

Link to AU regs which show variations of designs using self explanatory sketches, a handy design reference http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/GeneralRequirements/2018 Edition/GQ11-Schedule J-2018-1.pdf As Jon has mentioned this is the time to consider structural aims, from my observations this is often neglected. The priority, tag the cage to the body wherever possible which requires the builder to keep the bars close to the body which some of them don't like because it makes their job harder. In particular keep the A pillar bar snug, the common idea of having a big plate with lots of 'structural' flanged holes spaced away from the pillar gets me, other than looking fancy it's nonsense from a driver visibility and a structural point of view.

Do like the minimumalist look of those flares.

It all looks pretty good, trust me, I'm a body guy lol.

If a car is being used for competition then safety requirements will be dictated by the applicable rules. Rules, just follow the rules......

I've been around here too long lol, years ago I posted details and pics of a basic half cage designed to be light yet providing some protection and chassis rigidity.

Are bearing spacers being used on your front axles that are breaking? There is a thread around somewhere on that topic together with what's available, never heard of breaking problems when using them, primarily they are are used to counter flex which I guess if excessive would lead to breakage.

You've had some good advice here from some patient people who you should thank, about time you followed it and stop assuming eg you said that the engine had fuel so someone reading that would assume that the fuel was at the correct pressure. But apparently you had not checked that so in effect you did not know if the engine had fuel or not. Fault finding requires a methodical step by step approach. Try it.

As a consumer typically with these sorts of devices a detailed and comprehensive list of compatible ECU's is not provided, here I have no idea what the 'MS2 and MS3 family' of ECU's includes. Billet and carbon fiber are all very well, it needs to have a big enough display, really it can't be too big. How big is it?

You want brakes?

This car, only in America

My present thought is to get a complete package from a wrecked car, engine, transmission, shifter, electronics and loom. Have unearthed a local fella who has the software to get it all working and tune it which was my main concern. The option would be to use that package in it's entirety or else use my present good LS3 with the Haltech and loom removed which, together with the Sonnax kitted 6L80, sounds like the best combination. The 6L is lighter than the 4L85E, is more efficient and has engine braking. Have given up on the ZF/Ford trans, to recon one here costs lots of moola plus mating it to the LS is not simple. At this stage of the project plug and play is the word.